Ithaca Flues in 16ga - many pictures

Blastattack

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Howdy all. I just acquired an interesting Ithica SXS, and I’m trying to positively identify it. It is a 16ga SXS, with engraving and Krupp Fluid Steel barrels. The serial number is 200900, and the receiver is marked 3 over 16, which I assume is a Grade 3 in 16ga. No choke marks on the barrel flats (full/full?). The gun seems to be in good condition, with good bluing on the barrels, and traces of color case on the receiver. Lockup is also nice and tight. The forend detaches by pushing a nicely engraved button, the rear stock is slightly loose, and the safety seems to be stuck, though I am not familiar with how it works. I didn’t actually try to shift if left or right, just fore and aft. Can anyone give me some more info, and an approximate value? I’ll post pictures when I get home for better analysis.

Update:
Safety is fine. Might have been hanging up due to the trigger lock. Safety is three position automatic? Middle is safe and both front and back are fire? Is that normal?
Double triggers.
Stock is loose because the top wood screw has stripped out the wood.
Has ejectors. Nice.

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Your gun serial number indicates a Flues model built 1910. It will have 2 9/16 inch chambers.
It is Impossible to evaluate without a close examination, but not nearly as valuable in Canada, when compared to US prices.
 
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A nice gun - we don't see many Grade 3 Flues in Canada..
Problems that I see -
Loose screw at wrist you mentioned, previously reinforced, so the head of the butt stock likely needs attention
Solder along the rib indicates someone possibly tried to fix a lifting rib - likely needs a professional to relay the rib
Bore looks horrible, give it a good cleaning, and see how bad it really is.
I hope some others venture a valuation.
I suspect it might cost all the gun is worth to restore it.
 
A nice gun - we don't see many Grade 3 Flues in Canada..
Problems that I see -
Loose screw at wrist you mentioned, previously reinforced, so the head of the butt stock likely needs attention
Solder along the rib indicates someone possibly tried to fix a lifting rib - likely needs a professional to relay the rib
Bore looks horrible, give it a good cleaning, and see how bad it really is.
I hope some others venture a valuation.
I suspect it might cost all the gun is worth to restore it.

What are you referring to with the solder? Do you mean that lumpy looking bit above the Krupp Steel marks? I’m pretty sure that’s crusty varnish. It doesn’t look like solder, and it scratches easily with a plastic pick.

Bores are just dirty, and it’s a pretty bad picture. They’re shiny end to end with some deposits from shells. I’ll give it a good cleaning, but I don’t thing there anything serious there. The front of the chamber and forcing cones are really dark, but that could just be more deposits, or just shadow. I’ll give them a closer gander.

Agreed that the stock needs some love.
 
saskbooknut is correct on all counts. That's not varnish. If it can be picked off it's because the solder never adhered properly during the fix attempt. Rust can be seen spreading from under the patch job. When a rib separates like that, especially when rust is evident, there's in all probability much worse rusting going on between the barrels under the rib.

Those 4 black dots on either side of the top lever are where an attempt was made to fix the cracked stock. Holes were drilled, screws were placed vertically, and the screw heads covered over by whatever the black material is. The loose top screw is a symptom of the play in the stock, which puts extra stresses on the screws.

It was a real fine Ithaca at one time. It's still nice to look at. But, it would absolutely cost more to restore than it would be worth once the work has been done. That being said, GunNutz with deep pockets have been known to spend more than a gun is worth for the sake of bringing a classic back to life.
 
So, who in Canada do we trust to do some quality repairs? I would mainly be looking to have the stock refitted, but there seen to be a number of other deficiencies that could be addressed. I’m not sure I want to do a full restoration, but getting her up and running well would be nice.
 
You have to ask if they will take on your work, but if you look on the picture thread at the top of Sporting Shotguns - Claudio O and CJ Dawe's work speaks for itself.
 
Flues choke marking is 0 to 4 - zero is cylinder, and 4 is full choke, usually on the barrel flats. I see no markings in your pictures.
 
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