J. Stevens Marksman Rifle Circa 1920

Molds worth looking for are the 225107, which makes for about a 37 grain slug, or the 225415, a flat nosed 50-ish grain slug. A 225438 is another choice that would be good.

A handy table showing the mold designs generally available http://www.three-peaks.net/bullet_molds.htm

The 415, and 438 are still made and sold by Layman, the 107, you would have to either get lucky at a gun show, or order a replica from the likes of NOE Molds in the States, good folks to deal with.

If you go the NOE route, and do not want to deal with gas checks, you can ask them to remove the GC ring step at the base of the bullet, or just load them and use them without a check.

Take a look at Trail Boss as a powder. Meant to be used to have a fairly high volume of powder so double loads are not likely, and is used a lot by the Cowboy action shooters for mild loads.

Thanks for tips on molds, I use Trail Boss now for my 45LC and got some advice from another forum recommended 2g - 3.8g of Trail Boss under ~40g bullet.

Retreever
 
Just thinking - this is the sort of cartridge that begs to reloaded with a Lyman 310 tool. Vintage technology for a vintage rifle.

IIRC Kilbourn was an employee of Lyman. The box is marked 22 K Hornet, the handles K 22 Hornet, and the shell resizer simply Kilbourn
 

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Thanks for tips on molds, I use Trail Boss now for my 45LC and got some advice from another forum recommended 2g - 3.8g of Trail Boss under ~40g bullet.

Retreever

No worries! You're welcome!

The 107 and 438 bullets are pretty much the classic Hornet bullets, about all I have ever read has been that the only way to make them better, is to hollow point them. But I always figured that looked like a right PITA to cast, mucking about with those little pins on molds that size.

I got the hots for a Hornet a few years back, and started gathering parts and supplies. At least one guy over on the Castboolits site has reported getting better consistency using Small Pistol primers behind his cast loads. He opined that the lighter load of primer material did not push the bullet off the case prior to full powder ignition, as his best guess why they worked better.
I am pretty sure you can find and read that yourself, and a great deal more.

Those little Maynard style actions are far tougher than the Favorites. And that firing pin looks quite well done, with the large insert.
Did the maker put a gas vent out the bottom or top? If no, do wear glasses! The hammer may block some of the gas in the event of a pierced primer, or...it may not...
 
No worries! You're welcome!

The 107 and 438 bullets are pretty much the classic Hornet bullets, about all I have ever read has been that the only way to make them better, is to hollow point them. But I always figured that looked like a right PITA to cast, mucking about with those little pins on molds that size.

I got the hots for a Hornet a few years back, and started gathering parts and supplies. At least one guy over on the Castboolits site has reported getting better consistency using Small Pistol primers behind his cast loads. He opined that the lighter load of primer material did not push the bullet off the case prior to full powder ignition, as his best guess why they worked better.
I am pretty sure you can find and read that yourself, and a great deal more.

Those little Maynard style actions are far tougher than the Favorites. And that firing pin looks quite well done, with the large insert.
Did the maker put a gas vent out the bottom or top? If no, do wear glasses! The hammer may block some of the gas in the event of a pierced primer, or...it may not...

Thanks TrevJ , not sure what I should be looking for with a 'gas vent' but I wear glasses all the time.

Retreever
 
Thanks TrevJ , not sure what I should be looking for with a 'gas vent' but I wear glasses all the time.

Retreever

Typically, what you will see is a hole that passes from the firing pin passage, out at a right angle to the pin front section itself, so that if there is a pierced primer, the gasses are directed sideways, out the top, or out the bottom (into the action) rather than allowing them to pass along the rear of the firing pin and jet back into the shooter's face.

Not a huge risk, but a risk nonetheless, and is usually part and parcel to firing pin conversions undertaken.

Lesse if this works...

2dehaas.png


This image is a section of (I think) a Win 1885 breech block with a conversion. But the vent is clearly shown.
 
I have a couple of these marksman little rifles, and 22 hornet would not be one I would shoot out of one. WOW did think it would ever handle the pressure ! That said they are much stronger then the old favourites action.
Still a very nice piece. Keep shooting her, if you have no sign of any problems.... barrel pin getting lose... shell casing looking different..... etc.
Have fun, play safe.
Cheers
Brian
 
I have a couple of these marksman little rifles, and 22 hornet would not be one I would shoot out of one. WOW did think it would ever handle the pressure ! That said they are much stronger then the old favourites action.
Still a very nice piece. Keep shooting her, if you have no sign of any problems.... barrel pin getting lose... shell casing looking different..... etc.
Have fun, play safe.
Cheers
Brian

Thanks Brian, actually I don't plan on shooting any more commercial Hornet ammo. I plan on reloading using Trail Boss 2g to 3.8g under ~40g bullet. This was recommended by several folks on the American Single Shot Rifle Association forum.

Retreever
 
and guess who bought it..............but wish I had maybe read this thread first...............

This is my fourth K-Hornet and I guess I won't be hot-rodding it like I might otherwise be tempted to do!

Doug
 
Thanks Doug , for letting me “ rehome” it , Ive already had it out....works very well!
Thanks again, this will be it final resting place, until I’m in the ground..lol
Cheers
Brian
 
Thanks Doug , for letting me “ rehome” it , Ive already had it out....works very well!
Thanks again, this will be it final resting place, until I’m in the ground..lol
Cheers
Brian

I am VERY happy it went to a good home! Enjoy!

And yes, those handloads I did up were reasonably accurate and fun to shoot.

Doug
 
I know ALL ABOUT that rifle, in fact I was the one who originally owned it and had a Tool and die maker friend rechamber it for me!:cool:
The scope is a Belding and Mull, yes , and the barrel is an Anschutz The original barrrel was a .32 Rimfire and it as bulged.
I used this rifle for beavers with very light loads and found it very accurate at 50 yards, it was never intended to shoot heavy charges.
I always wondered where that old rifle ended up!
Cat
 
I know ALL ABOUT that rifle, in fact I was the one who originally owned it and had a Tool and die maker friend rechamber it for me!:cool:
The scope is a Belding and Mull, yes , and the barrel is an Anschutz The original barrrel was a .32 Rimfire and it as bulged.
I used this rifle for beavers with very light loads and found it very accurate at 50 yards, it was never intended to shoot heavy charges.
I always wondered where that old rifle ended up!
Cat

I always find it SO COOL when a story like this comes to light!

Brian and I both thought it was an after-market barrel and now we know. Anschutz!!!

Doug
 
The gentleman who did that job for me was a true master in metal. He was a Chechzslovakian trained
tool and die maker and was capable of making anything from screws to springs !
He actually built a vertical milling machine in his garage that was as accurate as anything in a modern shop .
Sadly, he has gone to quieter ranges .
I am glad to have stumbled upon this thread- oh, he also built the KHornet reamer and the scope rail for the B&M.
Cat
 
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Just a little update on my new to me little girl... things I’ve noticed... the hinge pin for the break action , it literally the size of the screw head, with the screw head being just a fraction larger then the shaft. Also the lever arm( goes from the barrel to the lever) is over sized too. All of the screws look to be made of of stainless steel . Iron Cat , your boy did a great job! Will it handle full factory loads? I would say yes all day.
Also the take down screw... well it no your daddy’s Marksman! They drilled a new hole( not just a small indent... like the end of a drill bit) but and actual reamed hole for the fine thread screw to seat into... man , what a nice job, also the firing pin has been drilled out completely, and replaced , with a new piece of metal,.... then redrilled for the new bushing firing pin...WOW , again beautiful work. ‘‘This is” the kinda work you wish you seen everyday, from your local gunsmith, or high end machinist.
Nice piece!
Cheers
Brian
 
Just a little update on my new to me little girl... things I’ve noticed... the hinge pin for the break action , it literally the size of the screw head, with the screw head being just a fraction larger then the shaft. Also the lever arm( goes from the barrel to the lever) is over sized too. All of the screws look to be made of of stainless steel . Iron Cat , your boy did a great job! Will it handle full factory loads? I would say yes all day.
Also the take down screw... well it no your daddy’s Marksman! They drilled a new hole( not just a small indent... like the end of a drill bit) but and actual reamed hole for the fine thread screw to seat into... man , what a nice job, also the firing pin has been drilled out completely, and replaced , with a new piece of metal,.... then redrilled for the new bushing firing pin...WOW , again beautiful work. ‘‘This is” the kinda work you wish you seen everyday, from your local gunsmith, or high end machinist.
Nice piece!
Cheers
Brian

Glad you like it!! My buddy went into depth on how he changed the firing in geometry from rimfire to center fire and the other upgrades he did, he was pretty happy with it .
I would stay away from factory ammo myself, but it h=as been done I think.
Cat
 
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