James Richard Glasgow***What do I have here?

jpc

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JAMES RICHARD MAKER IS ROYAL EXCHANGE SQTARE GLASGOW (as per barrel markings)
Octagon 31" rifled barrel
Muzzle .554
Overall length is 47"
I thought the barrel wall was a little thin for this size of caliber!

take care

jpc

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what do you have here??

well, in my honest opinion, what i belive this to be is what they called"a gentlemens rifle" 554 would have made it stalking rifle perhaps, back in the 1840-50 era, the gun seems to have a damascus steel barrel,seems to be all there, ceartainly wouldnt shoot it until looked at by a compitent antique gunsmith, and of sourse ,black powder only lol, how is the bore inside? is it very rusted? i would disassemble it, give the barrel a good dowse of oil, and use probably a 16 or 20 gauge shotgun brush and work it through the rifling turning the brush with the rifling and see what you can get out of it, my friend has one similar, in a larger bore, 62 caliber, his is in shootable cond, keep it original and keep it oiled up, might have a shooter there
 
I concur, what is often referred to as a Scotch deer stalking rifle. These were often around the 50ish caliber +, and always very light for caliber, to make them light for the carry. The barrel walls are thin, but not too thin. These certainly would not be made for heavy charges of powder, but I am sure you would find that the size of the barrel tapers thicker from the breech to the muzzle. The barrel is not Damascus, but laminated or twist steel. If it were mine (I would like that!), I would carefully clean the bore and inspect it. The difficulty comes in whether or not to take out the breech plug, because doing so sometimes will damage it and/or the barrel. If you choose to clean from the front, do NOT use an over-sized brush, as it will jam solid when you try to pull it back out again, and will damage the bore. If you can remove the plug, definitely clean straight through with over-sized brushes. First check to make sure it is not loaded by checking with the ramrod, marking the length inside, and compare to the outside length of barrel. If it shows considerably shorter than the outside barrel length (more than 1"), it is likely loaded. If this all seems like too much work, contact me and I would be interested in it for sure.
 
I concur, what is often referred to as a Scotch deer stalking rifle. These were often around the 50ish caliber +, and always very light for caliber, to make them light for the carry. The barrel walls are thin, but not too thin. These certainly would not be made for heavy charges of powder, but I am sure you would find that the size of the barrel tapers thicker from the breech to the muzzle.

Hello and thank you for the great information. You are correct about the taper.
Muzzle is .757 and the breech is .945

take care

jpc
 
If you choose to clean from the front, do NOT use an over-sized brush, as it will jam solid when you try to pull it back out again, and will damage the bore. .

I think that is a bit of a myth; if you rotate the brush while pulling back (clockwise or you will unscrew it) when it is at the bottom of the bore, the bristles will angle forward and you can pull the brush out as easily as they went in. I have been starting out with oversize brass brushes for years without problems although they generally crush down after a couple or three uses and oversize ceases to be a problem.

cheers mooncoon
 
I think that is a bit of a myth; if you rotate the brush while pulling back (clockwise or you will unscrew it) when it is at the bottom of the bore, the bristles will angle forward and you can pull the brush out as easily as they went in. I have been starting out with oversize brass brushes for years without problems although they generally crush down after a couple or three uses and oversize ceases to be a problem.

cheers mooncoon


Appreciate the advise mooncoon. What is your take on the rifle?

take care and look forward to hearing from you

jpc
 
If you decide to try to unscrew the breechplug, let some good penetrating oil like Kroil soak in for a bit. You can grab the barrel flats in a strong vise with padded jaws. I use leather. A pair of fitted hardwood bocks can be made as well. They can be finely fitted to the barrel with bedding compound. You will need a wrench that fits the breechplug properly. With your barrel, I would apply the receiver wrench that I use on flat sided receivers to the top and bottom flats of the patent breech plug. If you apply pressure and either the barrel shifts in the vise, or the breechplug slips in the wrench, damage will occur. With the breechplug out, cleaning and inspecting the bore is much easier.
I would agree with the suggestion that lighter loads would be appropriate - that barrel doesn't have the dimensions of a Hawken.
I just pulled the nipple and breechplug from a W. Richards, 13 John St. London stalking rifle. Both came out cleanly, after wiping the bore is shiney with some minor patches of pitting. It is a bit heavier than you barrel.
Those are post 1813 Birmingham proofs, so the rifle likely predates 1855 when different marks were introduced.
Have been restoring a halfstocked hunting/target rifle by GH Remington, Rome, NY. Drum and breechplug removed easily enough. The bore was plugged for four inches at the breech with rust and crap. Had to use a drill bit on a rod before I could see light. Have been using "Evaporust" from Lee Valley to soak the bore. This stuff doesn't instantly attack rust, browning, etc. But it has really helped with the bore. I fill the bore, leave it for hours, drain, pull the plug, brush well, repeat. Bore isn't going to be great, but it might lap out well enough to shoot.
 
If you decide to try to unscrew the breechplug, let some good penetrating oil like Kroil soak in for a bit. You can grab the barrel flats in a strong vise with padded jaws. I use leather. A pair of fitted hardwood bocks can be made as well. They can be finely fitted to the barrel with bedding compound. You will need a wrench that fits the breechplug properly. With your barrel, I would apply the receiver wrench that I use on flat sided receivers to the top and bottom flats of the patent breech plug. If you apply pressure and either the barrel shifts in the vise, or the breechplug slips in the wrench, damage will occur. With the breechplug out, cleaning and inspecting the bore is much easier.
I would agree with the suggestion that lighter loads would be appropriate - that barrel doesn't have the dimensions of a Hawken.
I just pulled the nipple and breechplug from a W. Richards, 13 John St. London stalking rifle. Both came out cleanly, after wiping the bore is shiney with some minor patches of pitting. It is a bit heavier than you barrel.
Those are post 1813 Birmingham proofs, so the rifle likely predates 1855 when different marks were introduced.
Have been restoring a halfstocked hunting/target rifle by GH Remington, Rome, NY. Drum and breechplug removed easily enough. The bore was plugged for four inches at the breech with rust and crap. Had to use a drill bit on a rod before I could see light. Have been using "Evaporust" from Lee Valley to soak the bore. This stuff doesn't instantly attack rust, browning, etc. But it has really helped with the bore. I fill the bore, leave it for hours, drain, pull the plug, brush well, repeat. Bore isn't going to be great, but it might lap out well enough to shoot.


Thanks tiriaq

appreciate the information

jpc
 
If you decide to try to unscrew the breechplug, let some good penetrating oil like Kroil soak in for a bit. You can grab the barrel flats in a strong vise with padded jaws. I use leather. A pair of fitted hardwood bocks can be made as well. They can be finely fitted to the barrel with bedding compound. You will need a wrench that fits the breechplug properly. With your barrel, I would apply the receiver wrench that I use on flat sided receivers to the top and bottom flats of the patent breech plug. If you apply pressure and either the barrel shifts in the vise, or the breechplug slips in the wrench, damage will occur. With the breechplug out, cleaning and inspecting the bore is much easier.
I would agree with the suggestion that lighter loads would be appropriate - that barrel doesn't have the dimensions of a Hawken.
I just pulled the nipple and breechplug from a W. Richards, 13 John St. London stalking rifle. Both came out cleanly, after wiping the bore is shiney with some minor patches of pitting. It is a bit heavier than you barrel.
Those are post 1813 Birmingham proofs, so the rifle likely predates 1855 when different marks were introduced.
Have been restoring a halfstocked hunting/target rifle by GH Remington, Rome, NY. Drum and breechplug removed easily enough. The bore was plugged for four inches at the breech with rust and crap. Had to use a drill bit on a rod before I could see light. Have been using "Evaporust" from Lee Valley to soak the bore. This stuff doesn't instantly attack rust, browning, etc. But it has really helped with the bore. I fill the bore, leave it for hours, drain, pull the plug, brush well, repeat. Bore isn't going to be great, but it might lap out well enough to shoot.

I fill the nipple with wax, then stand the gun up and fill with evaporust. overnight will remove all rust (and shot the pitting too). A little bore butter after will start the seasoning process so it doesn't rust immediatly in the future...
 
Well I gave it forty strokes with a tight brass brass and followed that with a clothe wade soaked with oil. All looks good and no surprises came out of the bore :) Didn't notice any roughness while pushing and pulling the tight clothe, that made me happy. I will leave pulling the breech plug for the next owner :)
 
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