The story isn't over, its getting longwinded!
Day 3
I wake pretty happy for a guy who has been sleeping on the ground for a couple days. There isn't any frost this morning and tahr hate the heat so we gobble down serious portions of eggs, bacon, beans and toast and head out. I'm feeling strong and want to explore the edges of the valley we saw those tahr in the fog so have an extra coffee and get my laces nice and tight.
As we head upstream we see a lone bull moving up the mountain side. He's walking up loose scree faster than I can go down and we guess he fell asleep and got left down low by the rest of the herd. As we climb into the valley across from the mountain he is on we keep watching as he climbs 2000' in little over an hour and then lays down 50m away- and facing away- from 3 other bulls. Somebody is pissed! They are black dots on a mountain of pure scree and I put them out of my mind except to laugh at the tiff going on.
As we climb through the series of rock ledges and grassy patches the heat climbs and I start to wonder if 'almost the top' will be good enough today.

A quick lunch beside a small stream gets me focused and I'm committed to exploring some of the rock fields that are hidden at the top. Good thing too- there are two small tarns up there and enough goat crap to fill a truck.
We are in the right spot and tuck ourselves into some rocks (top center of first photo below) to spend the day glassing and waiting for the afternoon grazing to start.
After a couple hours we start to see tahr. A group of 6, a group of 8, a group of 15...... By late afternoon there are 30+ tahr in one big group in the ledges at the top of the photo below and one small group of 6 off to the left side. Can't see the black dots without binos? Trust me, they are there and there are 3 bulls that have John excited. With the number of tahr he hunts that has me excited too!
You know how hunting is about the experience? The thrill of the chase, facing the elements, testing your mental and physical toughness? For every sweet high there is a bitter low to give it perspective..... My low comes in the form of a small plane. These tahr also get heli hunted by guys with deeper pockets than I and a different view of the chase. The tahr freak out and huddle all staring at the plane. It flies away with them still staring and I start to breathe again. After John calms down and stops giving me a Kiwi curse lesson I point out that the animals are all still there and we just have to know they are skittish when stalking. No big deal...... then the plane comes back! All hell breaks loose and the big herd takes off towards the river valley, scattering. Then out of nowhere the satellite herd of 6 goes barrelling by us and runs all the way down through our small valley, past the big herd, down over the ledge into the river valley and is gone. My understatement of the year was "Well that was something"!
We still know where a couple bulls are and climb down, sneak behind some rocks and do a very long, very painful belly crawl to get in position. Note to self: summer weight alpine clothes are useless against spear grass. Welders gloves and chaps likely are too. We can just see part of one bull and are looking for the others below us when the wind which has been in our face constantly puffs against the back of my neck. Five bulls, three of which are shooters, break from the rocks below and run for their lives away and down into a deep ravine. We race along behind, hoping to find them hiding in the ravine but they are gone. John and I split a chocolate bar and discuss the value of a great stalk versus an animal down, pass on some of the ok but not thrilling tahr left with the nannies and kids above us and head to the river valley. Its awhile until dark and we have a ways to get home.
Remember the band of brothers from the morning? The ones who thought it was funny to leave their buddy snoozing? Here they are, relationship mended and about 1/3 the way down the mountain. Don't bother squinting.
We look at a couple of the big patches of grass and figure if they stop to feed that its within shooting range for me. Not ideal, but not a bad end to such a day. Just then it was like the Dukes of Hazzard show started starring four tahr bulls- they started running at each other, spinning around, flaring their manes, bluff charging and running straight downhill in between each goof off scene! We cinch our packs down, wait for them to go behind a small ridge and run as fast as possible down the mountain and across the river below to reach a dry riverbed to hide in. At this point my knees are singing their own song and I'm panting like mad but they keep coming down and charge into the river and fresh green grass a couple hundred yards below us! I'm totally amazed at the scene before me but have no time to take it all in as we start our stalk again. Using the dry riverbeds and belly crawling in between we manage to get 50m away from the four who are busy feeding. Problem now is that they won't lift their heads and dark is fast upon us. With minutes of shooting light left we try an unusual hunting tactic.... announcing our presence. John clicks rocks, whistles and finally hoots at the bulls. Four heads pop up and they take off across the river flat. My instructions are "first or last" and now I wait for them to break stride and present a shot. Two hundred yards away they stop at the base of the mountain to look back and that's all I need. One shot and the bull drops in his tracks. I'm amazed at the day, the hunt and the experience of it all. Walking over to the bull John says "You know you had one chance and only a few seconds with what we did, right?". He's right, but that sentence sums up so many hunts for so many game in so many environments. My bull was stunning. A thick mane, great colour bands going down his back and 12.5" horns.
We sort the bull out for the night and walk home in the dark. Once in camp we had some steaks, some Moscow mules and then just sat quietly staring at the night sky. I've only seen skies that dark in northern Canada, Tanzania and now New Zealand- the southern cross, the milky way and fittingly Orion the hunter were our company at the end of such an incredible day.