JB Weld on slide?????

If you run a flat stone across the dust cover where the stamps are you will soon see that the side of the dust cover is not perfectly flat and the stone is removing the high parts first and will slowly flatten out the area you are stoning..what I mean by "chasing" is that when I got 90% of the stamps gone I switched from the dmt stone to hand work with the open grit abrasive and my fingertips. This let me go a little deeper to get the last of the stamps without removing extra metal where it was not necessary.
If you are going to paint it you could just use the filler but I'd do what I did because it's not hard and there is no chance of the filler failing.
Since you are refinishing it's the perfect time to take off all the sharp edges and blend the lines of the gun to perfection:)
Good time to change the grip safety or add anything else as well!
One thing I've noticed with the Norinco 1911 frames is they all seem to have a little bump in the bottom of the trigger gaurd....I smoothed that out as well.
 
If the stamp marks on the slide are pretty deep then you should probably just live with them or go the filler and Duracoat route. Otherwise you're correct and a lot of metal will need to be removed. More than would be prudent. On the frame lettering where Can-down removed it there seems to be less that is critical there.

Bottom line is to carefully measure the metal thickness and the depth of the stamping and compare the two. If you reduce the thickness by more than 3 to 5 % then this is not a good option.
 
Good point rider!
On my commander the stamps I removed were on the dust cover in a non critical part of the frame where there is no stress...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom