JB Weld

Clobbersauras

Clobbersauras

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
96   0   0
Location
Waaay out west.
Hi All. Does anyone know if JB Weld is reasonably resistant to heat and solvents? I've seen a few bubba'd rifles where JB Weld was used to keep front sight it place.:confused:. I assume silver solder would be a better, slightly less bubba solution?:D

Edit: I meant JB Weld, I had to go out to the work desk to check...
 
Last edited:
silver solder is your best bet , but i used jb weld for lots of #### , holds up to heat real well , for solvents like gas yes it is fine , i used it for repairing motorcycle carbs and side covers all the time.
 
JB Weld is just epoxy glue with metal powder in it. Within reason, it holds up fine to solvents and heat. add enough heat, it burns off.

There are better products out there for most of the things JB Weld is used for.


Cheers
Trev
 
if you need to be able to ground or sanded down, and heat resistant you will need silver solder. make sure its on something you dont care about the surface finnish on. because after your done it will have none, as you need to use a Oxy acetaline torch to heat the parts up which in general need to be close to red hot for it to bond properly, which takes off blueing. silver solder also doesent take blueing at all, so there is that aswell.

jbweld works if you need to give something a little helping hand staying put, say a front sight held on with a screw only holding by a thread or 2.
 
Front sight ramps are often soft soldered on. Silver solder (braze) isn't necessary. Brownells sells a silver bearing lower temperature solder higher strength solder that is excellent for the purpose. As mentionned, high temp. silver solder requires red heat, and that has all sorts of implications.
There are sophisticated adhesives used to attach ribs, etc. Might be OK for a sight ramp.
 
The low temp silver bearing solders are really good stuff. Even soft solders are better than epoxy, as the surface is going to be fairly large, and the shear loads are fairly limited without a huge blow to the part.

If you are looking for an adhesive, track down some proper industrial epoxy. Not going to be cheap, and not going to set up in a short time unless you can arrange for a controlled heat source. EA-934 from Hysol, is one brand and material spec, but there are others.

If you are stuck using hardware store epoxy, use the stuff with the longest set-up time you can find, jig up your parts, and wait. The longer cure epoxies are stronger, all else being equal.


Cheers
Trev
 
Yeah - I think I'm going to try JB weld for my project. If it doesn't hold all I have to do is grind it off. I do have a soldering gun, but I'm not sure if regular solder will hold anything stronger than JB weld....
 
JB Weld should work fine, and if it doesn't there's nothing lost. Rough up the surfaces a bit if possible..file, emery, centre punch whatever.

If you want to remove it any time in the future use a paint strippper heat gun. JB says near boiling water will soften it, but it takes a long time and is a pita. A 1500 watt heat gun will do the job faster and better without damaging any metal or blueing.

Some say Devcon is better, and I confess I've never used it. The reason is simple: I've never had to. JB is very strong, easy to remove, can be machined any which way, etc. etc. Make fixtures, brackets, repair cracks and breaks in auto parts, even mold it around a shaft to make a bushing.

Just be sure you get the slow cure type, as it's a lot stronger than the 5 minute stuff.
 
rodagra said:
JB Weld should work fine, and if it doesn't there's nothing lost. Rough up the surfaces a bit if possible..file, emery, centre punch whatever.

If you want to remove it any time in the future use a paint strippper heat gun. JB says near boiling water will soften it, but it takes a long time and is a pita. A 1500 watt heat gun will do the job faster and better without damaging any metal or blueing.

Some say Devcon is better, and I confess I've never used it. The reason is simple: I've never had to. JB is very strong, easy to remove, can be machined any which way, etc. etc. Make fixtures, brackets, repair cracks and breaks in auto parts, even mold it around a shaft to make a bushing.

Just be sure you get the slow cure type, as it's a lot stronger than the 5 minute stuff.
Click to expand...
X 2 --- I,v been using JB Weld for a long time for everthing from MotorCycle parts repair to firearms, etc; etc; etc; and I think its a great product !!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom