JP Sauer SXS fires both barrels

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eeemaster

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I have a JP SAUER 16 GUAGE sxs shotgun I just received in a trade. It's a nice little gun it's got hammers I'm guessing it's old. When I load both barrels and shoot the front trigger both barrels fire.

If I #### both hammers and fire the rear trigger first one will fire then I can fire the other by squeezing the front trigger.

One thing that I found is the trigger pull is way less on the rear trigger.

Today I shot and both barrels fired and the action actually broke open after firing.
 
from research I've done I'm thinking it might be a worn sear on the left side that slips under recoil and drops the hammer. If there is someone that knows about these shotguns please help me out.
 
When fired with dummie rounds only one hammer drops when firing the front trigger. The second trigger is also hair pin compared to the front one.
 
The rear trigger needs attention (to state the obvious) but I'm betting you knew that and should proceed per mooncoon (assuming that the left lock is controlled by the rear trigger which AFAIK they all are)) if you honestly weren't suspicious at least of the rear trigger then you should ignore mooncoon's advice and find a gunsmith who is competent working on double guns.
 
I took Both hammers off today and there really is no visable wear nothing that stands out. The left side that I believe is braking under recoil may have a slightly less deep groove on the cocking piece. I believe if that groove was deepened it would fix the issue. The sear is under spring pressure when you pull the trigger it pushes on one end of the sear which I belive is pinned like a lever and the hammer which is under spring tension is released and then bang! By slightly deepening the notch on the cocking peice I think this would solve the issue.

My Gunsmith wanted 60 dollars just to look at this not to mention he was going to make a new sear because you cannot get parts for theses he figured it to be a 600-700 dollar job!
 
First, get a magnifying glass, or even better, find a binocular microscope to use to look at the parts. Maybe these days the cheap USB microscope like the ones in the USB Microscope thread, is a way to go.

My bet is that once you get a closer look at the sears and the sear notches on the locks that you will find that they are rounded off and worn to different degrees.

Not the kind of job to send to a guy that starts off telling you how expensive the parts are, that has not had a good look at it first, maybe.

My nickel says that you want to be reading some of the old school gunsmithing books, like Howe's Modern Gunsmithing and a couple others, to learn about what a sear should look like and how they are supposed to be set up to be stoned with fine stones, to correct things like the depth of engagement, angles, wear, etc. There is a lot of info online too, if you dig long enough.

Educate yourself, and you will be able to have a pretty good understanding of what is going on inside there as well as an idea of whether the parts will need to be made, or if it is a fairly easy (careful slow work!) small job that you can do yourself. Mind the heavy duty springs! :)

Cheers
Trev
 
With the lock out of the gun, try cocking the hammer and then pushing on it to make sure it is securely held by the sear. Make sure the hammer has something to bump up against so that it is not snapping down all the way and putting excessive strain on the tumbler (tumbler is the piece that the hammer fastens to on the outside and the mainspring works on, on the inside)
If the hammer is held solidly by the sear when out of the gun and if the sear requires a significant push to release the hammer, the problem is not the notch / sear tip. At that point suspect that the sear arm is pressing on the top of the trigger (inside the stock). With the gun assembled, there should be a small amount of slack in the trigger which would indicate that the trigger is not pressing directly on the sear until you pull the trigger). On some guns if you tighten the screw too much, that holds the locks in place, in can rotate the top of the lock in and that rotates the sear arm down onto the trigger.

cheers mooncoon
 
MoonCoon I think your dead on with the Screw that holds the locks in place. I played with the sear and cocking peice and there is no way that its letting go.

One thing I did notice when reassembling is that if that lock screw is not tightened all the way when you #### the hammer it wouldnt lock cocked. I tightened it down and then it locked when cocked.

I just took the gun out cocked both hammers and only put one shell in on the rigth side and shot the other hammer did not fall. It seems to be working now which makes me very happy.

This is the lightest shotgun I've ever shot I love the gun. A bubba varnished over the checkering so im going to get a checkering set and recut that but its really a great gun shot a chciken with it the other day.
 
A bubba varnished over the checkering so im going to get a checkering set and recut that but its really a great gun shot a chciken with it the other day.
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if you can remove the varnish first it would be better ... varnish really clogs a checkering tool and can cause you to skip and botch the job.

This is the lightest shotgun I've ever shot I love the gun
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I have ALWAYS coveted a Sauer Royal sxs owned by a friend of mine .. very beautiful guns!
 
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