Just finished the bench

C

canoetrpr

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Just North of Toronto
I wanted to just purchase a work bench at Lowes but my wife insisted that we put one together. She's the handy one around our place. I got the basic idea from Peet Peens; whose reloading course I took, as he has a longer bench like this one.

Goal was to build something that isn't fancy but can serve the main purpose of sturdy support for one (or more) press(es). It is 4 ft long x 2 feet wide. Top is 3 pieces of 3/4 plywood that are glued and screwed together to become a 2.25 " bench top. 4x4s on the corners that are bolted to the top with 1/2" x 8" bolts. Two 2x6 supports - although I doubt they are necessary. Feel pretty good about it.

Bolted my Redding Big Boss II press and I'm showing off some of the components I plan to start with. Still waiting patiently for an order from Natchez to show up with my Charge Master, dies and few other items (been three weeks now!).

photo1_zpsd25c0de6.jpg
 
depending on how much that bench weighs you might want to put a shelf under it. I have problems with my design in that there's no shelf, and no way to weigh it down when sizing cases to another cal. It walks and wobbles around a little bit when i lean into sizing a case. I should have also put a thick piece of plywood accross the back to keep stuff from falling doen the back, and it'll help with side to side wiggle.
The next bench you build will be built way better than this one. Think version 2.0 and all the upgrades you forgot to put on this one.
 
It looks real good, except I'd also run a 2x6 across the front and one across the back.

They'd be on the inside, right above the existing ones on the sides, and bolted to the 4x4's.

I'd also have them tight against the top and screwed to it from above.

That way your bench shouldn't develop a side-to-side wobble over time and become unstable.

BTW, you may want your press to be a little more centered so that you have more room to work around it.
 
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Thanks for thr tips guys. Much appreciated!

I will do as you suggest and put a 2x6 across the back and the front. I worry I won't be able to bolt it through the 4x4 though unless it is below the level of the 2x6s because of the bolts that secure the plywood top ; they are rather long. My 2x6s are at the level they are to avoid that hardware.

I do like the idea of it being flush with the top and screwing it in through the top. Maybe I can just secure it to the 4x4s with long screws?
 
I might as well try out the press where it is bolted now and will move it if I find it will help. I suspect it looks further to the right than it is because of the angle the picture is taken from.
 
canoetrpr said:
I wanted to just purchase a work bench at Lowes but my wife insisted that we put one together. She's the handy one around our place. I got the basic idea from Peet Peens; whose reloading course I took, as he has a longer bench like this one.

Goal was to build something that isn't fancy but can serve the main purpose of sturdy support for one (or more) press(es). It is 4 ft long x 2 feet wide. Top is 3 pieces of 3/4 plywood that are glued and screwed together to become a 2.25 " bench top. 4x4s on the corners that are bolted to the top with 1/2" x 8" bolts. Two 2x6 supports - although I doubt they are necessary. Feel pretty good about it.

Bolted my Redding Big Boss II press and I'm showing off some of the components I plan to start with. Still waiting patiently for an order from Natchez to show up with my Charge Master, dies and few other items (been three weeks now!).

photo1_zpsd25c0de6.jpg
Click to expand...

that's a stout looking bench.

Your wife knows what she's doing.

Excuse my ignorance and the hijacking, but where can I find out about peet peens?
 
Don't use single bolts. Use screws or a combination of both. A single bolt at each attachment point can still allow your construction to "twist".

Get some proper screws and toss two in each leg where your bolts currently are and if you want another cross brace, screw it to the top of your 2x6's in the center. That way you'll have leg room when working at your bench.


With finished wood like your top, I'd also sand the edges very slightly. Having worked with tons of cut, pre-finished wood like this I know how easily the fresh cut edges can slice skin. Sometimes you won't even notice it happened, until you've got blood on your work/workspace.

Another suggestion, obviously completely dependent of your press' etc...but I'd also toss a piece around the edges. Not so much to finish the look, but a thin piece around the edge that sticks above the top 1/4" would save lots of small pieces from falling on the floor.


It's gettin' there though! Way more fun building yourself than buying pre-made!
 
Nice work. Is all the plywood's grain pattern going the same way? I'm being picky when I say this but if your grain is all going the same way, next time I would turn it the other way. It would be stronger using a rip cut rather than a cross cut of the ply wood. Again, being picky here, take it with a grain of salt.
 
CheeseBurger said:
Nice work. Is all the plywood's grain pattern going the same way? I'm being picky when I say this but if your grain is all going the same way, next time I would turn it the other way. It would be stronger using a rip cut rather than a cross cut of the ply wood. Again, being picky here, take it with a grain of salt.
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No kidding you're being picky when a sheet of plywood is already constructed with alternating crosscut/rip cut layers.... :)
 
canoetrpr said:
Thanks for thr tips guys. Much appreciated!

I will do as you suggest and put a 2x6 across the back and the front. I worry I won't be able to bolt it through the 4x4 though unless it is below the level of the 2x6s because of the bolts that secure the plywood top ; they are rather long. My 2x6s are at the level they are to avoid that hardware.

I do like the idea of it being flush with the top and screwing it in through the top. Maybe I can just secure it to the 4x4s with long screws?
Click to expand...

The closer to the top that you can put those 2x6's, the better.

If you flip over any wood kitchen table you will notice they usually have bracing underneath that the legs are attached to.

The legs can be long and unbraced from that point on, but they need that support underneath the tabletop.

I see what you mean about the long bolt from the top.

Actually Brody is totally right, you can accomplish the same thing with long screws through the 2x6's to the side of where the bolt from the top is.

Good luck with everything!

Oh BTW, your wife is a keeper!
 
MapleSugar said:
It looks real good, except I'd also run a 2x6 across the front and one across the back.

They'd be on the inside, right above the existing ones on the sides, and bolted to the 4x4's.

I'd also have them tight against the top and screwed to it from above.

That way your bench shouldn't develop a side-to-side wobble over time and become unstable.

BTW, you may want your press to be a little more centered so that you have more room to work around it.
Click to expand...

The 2 x 6 should span the back so that when you use the two 2 x 6 braces along the sides for a shelf, the back brace will not allow items to run off the back of the shelf.

Keep in mind you will want space to park your knees.

You should have the next 20 years to decide where you want everything positioned . . . when you move your press for the umpteenth time another sheet of plywood will cover all the old holes.

A job well done.
 
canoetrpr said:
Mike, I'll PM you Peet's email address. Great guy and he runs a nice reloading course to get newbies like me started.
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Heard from him. I will likely take the course.

I just don't know enough to proceed on my own. I can do the 2 rounds I have set up, but would be uncomfortable setting up a new round on my own.

This is a good deal, I like the idea that I have this option.

Thanks for the info.

:cheers:
 
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