Just got single stage reloader! Now what?
- Thread starter Teapot
- Start date
You will need dies, decap die, priming tool. Rifle case also need case lub for resizing, most important is a trust worth scale which lyman has a lot to offer. Don't care about reloading maual because imformation all over the net.
Trigun
Trigun
What he said!
Before you buy anything else, buy a manual and read it. (They're all good. The major brands make money on their reputation and their publications can be trusted. On the net? Honestly, who can tell how much any website publisher really knows and how much he's spinning?)
Once you've done that, you'll have a better idea of what else you will need.
Welcome to the the dark side.
I would also add a scale, and a set of good calipers, are definately needed. There are all kinds of accesories that can be added to a reloading setup, electonic powder dispensers, case prepping tools, kinetic bullet pullers, hand priming tools, it just depends on how much you want to spend.
Avid studier; Libera Arts. But technical things make my head spin.
Have a manual and have read bits and pieces. Always confused about neck sizing or full length sizing or both together etc. Crimp; factory crimp vs roll vs none at all. Seating depth, well this effects pressure but so may an empty cavity with a little bit of propellant. Many things to take into account.
I may leave the press alone for a bit and pick up a Lee Classic Loader for 45-70 and do my teething on that. When I have a bit of experience I'll use the press for other cartridges too. But first just the 45-70. I'll try to pick one up from a sponsor first and if not just call Lee.
Thanks for all the advice. It is much appreciated.
Have a manual and have read bits and pieces. Always confused about neck sizing or full length sizing or both together etc. Crimp; factory crimp vs roll vs none at all. Seating depth, well this effects pressure but so may an empty cavity with a little bit of propellant. Many things to take into account.
I may leave the press alone for a bit and pick up a Lee Classic Loader for 45-70 and do my teething on that. When I have a bit of experience I'll use the press for other cartridges too. But first just the 45-70. I'll try to pick one up from a sponsor first and if not just call Lee.
Thanks for all the advice. It is much appreciated.
teapot - It can get really teckie if you let it, but at the entry level it's really is no more difficult than following a brownie recipe in your kitchen. Honest.
There are probably lots of guys in the Hamilton area who would be willing to give you some advice. Suggest you post another message with a title like Need Reloading Advice in Hamilton.
Good luck.
There are probably lots of guys in the Hamilton area who would be willing to give you some advice. Suggest you post another message with a title like Need Reloading Advice in Hamilton.
Good luck.
You will want to roll crimp your .45-70, most .45 cal rifle bullets come with a cannelure on them, and the trick is to seat the bullet and have the roll crimp grab the cannelure. Also you will find a couple different loadings for the .45-70, some for modern rifles and some for older falling block etc. In my .45-70 i used a 300gr barnes X, which does not have a cannelure, but i wasnt worried about it as i was using it in a new 1885 high wall.
Most people full length resize thier cases, and with a straight wall case you have to. Some people prefer to only neck resize certain calibers on bottleneck cases, as this allows a better cartridge to chamber fit. The best reloading manual in my opinion is Lymans, a great place to start.
Most people full length resize thier cases, and with a straight wall case you have to. Some people prefer to only neck resize certain calibers on bottleneck cases, as this allows a better cartridge to chamber fit. The best reloading manual in my opinion is Lymans, a great place to start.
45-70 should be a dead simple cartridge to reload. Like a pistol cartridge, but bigger. Buy a three piece carbide die set plus a shell holder, die 1 resizes and deprimes, die 2 bells case mouth, die 3 seats bullet and crimps. Get a hand primer, to prime your cases. Add powder between die 2 and 3. You'll need a powder scale, and probably a powder thrower, and a funnel. Add a trimmer to keep all you brass the same length, and a chamfer/deburr to use after trimming. That is all that you absolutely need. Lots of other fancy doodads, you might want, but most aren't necessary unless you're looking for ultimate accuracy, or much higher loading speeds.
what he said ! if every newbie that is intrested in reloading would just take the time to read just one Manual there would be alot less question's asked on here. people are just lazy with the internet so handy ,just ask and someone will tell you . sorry my rant of the day
winnipegger
CGN frequent flyer
i taught myself reloading a couple years ago. Read your manual (i had a speer manual) and then start realoading. It's super easy to do and IMO just reading the book and following the steps will be enough for you to pick it up. Also the pamphlet that came with my RCBS dies was very helpful as well... Its not as hard as it may seem when you are first starting. But that said, still be careful when you are doing it to not make a mistake like a double charge or no charge. double and triple check your work throughout the process in order to catch any errors. IE inspect brass whenver you handle it. Use a flashlight to make sure all the powder charged cases have equal amounts of powder and the like.
Avid studier; Libera Arts. But technical things make my head spin.
Have a manual and have read bits and pieces. Always confused about neck sizing or full length sizing or both together etc. Crimp; factory crimp vs roll vs none at all. Seating depth, well this effects pressure but so may an empty cavity with a little bit of propellant. Many things to take into account.
I may leave the press alone for a bit and pick up a Lee Classic Loader for 45-70 and do my teething on that. When I have a bit of experience I'll use the press for other cartridges too. But first just the 45-70. I'll try to pick one up from a sponsor first and if not just call Lee.
Thanks for all the advice. It is much appreciated.
The lee loader will require the same as the press, except not do the job as well.
Full size the brass (in 4570) it won't hurt it any way. Measure length of case to ensure it meets specs, it should after 1fire. Resize mouth to accept bullet. Prime, add powder, seat bullet and crimp (as one action or seperate) and your done except for the ass kicking 4570 will give you.
Load light, once you've figured it outup the powder.Even an arts studnet can figure this out.
Avid studier; Libera Arts. But technical things make my head spin.
Have a manual and have read bits and pieces. Always confused about neck sizing or full length sizing or both together etc. Crimp; factory crimp vs roll vs none at all. Seating depth, well this effects pressure but so may an empty cavity with a little bit of propellant. Many things to take into account.
I may leave the press alone for a bit and pick up a Lee Classic Loader for 45-70 and do my teething on that. When I have a bit of experience I'll use the press for other cartridges too. But first just the 45-70. I'll try to pick one up from a sponsor first and if not just call Lee.
Thanks for all the advice. It is much appreciated.
Honestly, Teapot, if you already have the press then get the dies for it. Although I have several Lee Loaders, there are drawbacks to their use. Few, but some. First you will have to get some tools. You will need a sturdy place to do your reloading since it does require some hammer work. Oh, yeah, the same stuff you need for your press.
Seriously, the Lee Loader only neck sizes so it will eventually stop working with your brass and you will have to set the shoulder back on a press. It makes very good rounds otherwise and I like it, especially at the range. However, there are so many other options available o you now that you have a press so use it. I heartily recommend Modern Reloading as a starter, along with the ABC's of Reloading and the Lyman reloading manual, what are they at now...#49?
This is a very engrossing hobby and you need not be an engineer or technical wizard to do it. It can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be. I loaded for years with a Lee Loader, turning out satisfactory groups for my hunting rifle. I didn't know about Sectional Density, Ballistic Coefficients, internal or external ballistics. All I knew was, make cartridge by instructions, fire in gun. Hit animal, happy man.
Don't worry about the technical aspects, they will take care of themselves. Good luck and have fun.
RW
"...Have a manual and have read bits and pieces..." Read the rest of it. And follow it religiously.
You need dies and a shell holder plus components.
A Lee Loader will work just fine, but slowly and it's not the same thing as a press. Used one myself for the 'Great BP Experiment'. If you opt to use it, do not use the scoops. Buy a scale. The scoops can vary the powder charge plus or minus a full grain.
"...have to set the shoulder back on a press..." .45-70. No shoulder.
You need dies and a shell holder plus components.
A Lee Loader will work just fine, but slowly and it's not the same thing as a press. Used one myself for the 'Great BP Experiment'. If you opt to use it, do not use the scoops. Buy a scale. The scoops can vary the powder charge plus or minus a full grain.
"...have to set the shoulder back on a press..." .45-70. No shoulder.
I would use the press you have to begin. Starting with new brass I check to see how good/bad the case mouth is. If its good I prime the cases, if its all bent I full lenght resize them. If there used I full lenght resize them. Next I start my RCBS powder dispenser and set it to dispense XX grains of powder(you can use a scale here). I then flare the case with a lee powder through expanding die and I have a funnel in the die to pour powder through. I use a turret press for reloading my 45/70, so I just turn it to the next die to continue. The next step is to seat the bullet, here's where it can take time to find the perfect seating/crimping combination. To set this up I flare an empty case and the I loosen the bullet seating die till it clears the flared case. I bring the die down slowly till it removes the flare and slightly crimps the case. Not to much crimp or it could bulge the case. This outline works in my 45/70 H&R buffalo classic and my Marlin 1895CB 45/70. Next is setting the seating die for the bullet I want to use. Again I loosen the seating stem up and then place a bullet and seat it, but not all the way to impart the crimp on the case. I screw it down during the multiple tries to find the OAL I'm looking for. Most bullets have a canalure(i think its called) to seat to. 45/70 is very forgiving in OAL. It just has to cycle through your gun. Only put 1 in you gun to check cycling issues from the tube mag. Its easier to remove 1 that doesn't work than 6. Need or have any other questions PM me.
I reload almost 20000 rounds a year. I have 6 reloading manuals. 7 presses. 25 bullet molds.
Oh and I'm building a house with a door leading from my 2nd story reloading room to my 400 yard shooting range, so I'll never have to go outside to test loads anymore. take care
I reload almost 20000 rounds a year. I have 6 reloading manuals. 7 presses. 25 bullet molds.
Oh and I'm building a house with a door leading from my 2nd story reloading room to my 400 yard shooting range, so I'll never have to go outside to test loads anymore. take care
Cases which lengthen(grow) can cause pressure problems and cause inconsistent crimp. Lee makes an inexpensive, easy to use case trimmer. If the Spartan has a primer arm with large rifle punch, it's fine to start priming. Prima donnas' and serious benchresters use hand and other priming systems. Read a good manual(like Lyman's) which includes cast bullet techniques and data. be safe.
