Just need the Barrel Nut Wrench now

D

DinoS

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I have all the parts. 2 savage actions with extended mag releases , 2 Choate Tactical Stocks, 2 20moa bases, 2 sets of Burris Tactical rings, 2 recoil lugs, 1 new bolt face with baffle and pin and 2 McGowan barrels, 1 6.5x47L 8 twist and 1 300WSM 10 twist both 24" SS varmint contour. One Vortex PST FFP and one Burris Fullfield off my 204 for now. 2 10 round mags for the 6.5 and 2 five round for the 300. I have the go gauges as well.
Thanks to the venders on here and others who have helped.

Who has has a wrench to sell or new ready to ship, I would love to make it to one of Maynards 1 MOA Challenges.

Dino
 
Here is how you can improvise a barrel nut wrench.....
Find a large open ended wrench that will just pass over the nut.
Get two little pieces of brass rod (like welding rod). Put the rods in opposite nut notches. The wrench will lock against them, and turn the nut.
 
tiriaq, I tried the wrench method. I used a 1 1/8 wrench and some brass rod, close the the dia. of coat hanger. It worked great but I was not to sure of the torque I was getting. It did get them together and head spaced. One layer of tape on the go gauge and it would not close. Take take the tape off and smooth as butter put it back on no go..............repeat 10 times. This was done with the ejector and extractor out of the bolt. Should be good to go........I hope.

Jerry PM has been sent to you.

I was doing assembly and thinking that I hope these don't unscrew when shooting. Is this a normal thought for you guys when you assembled your first barrels/action. I gave the wrench 2 good sharp strikes with a 2 lb. rubber hammer but in the back of my mind that thought is there.

I will post pics when both assemblies are complete.

Dino
 
DinoS said:
tiriaq, I tried the wrench method. I used a 1 1/8 wrench and some brass rod, close the the dia. of coat hanger. It worked great but I was not to sure of the torque I was getting. It did get them together and head spaced. One layer of tape on the go gauge and it would not close. Take take the tape off and smooth as butter put it back on no go..............repeat 10 times. This was done with the ejector and extractor out of the bolt. Should be good to go........I hope.

Jerry PM has been sent to you.

I was doing assembly and thinking that I hope these don't unscrew when shooting. Is this a normal thought for you guys when you assembled your first barrels/action. I gave the wrench 2 good sharp strikes with a 2 lb. rubber hammer but in the back of my mind that thought is there.

I will post pics when both assemblies are complete.

Dino
Click to expand...


Sounds like you are good to go. The barrels/nut don't need an enormous amount of torque to hold (unlike the factory barrels). Your method seems very similar to mine and I've had no problems with barrel movement.
 
Years ago, I made a barrel nut wrench. Useful only for round notched nuts. Took a chunk of steel, layed out a circle the diameter of the barrel nut. Drilled four holes in groove locations. Put the steel in the lathe, carefully centered it, drilled and bored out the circle until a barrel nut fit, leaving half holes where the nut grooves would be. To use it, I slid it over the nut, and tapped in brass pins. Worked fine. MUCH easier to buy a wrench - double ended for round and square grooves.
 
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