Just stippled my Glock. What a thrill...

Thanks!

I like it! So you just made a little impression each time. How long did it take to do the whole frame? Must have been a while.

It reminds me of a gecko's foot in that its made up of tiny little dots of grippiness. (If grippiness is an actual word)

Figure11.jpg
 
BabySeal said:
That OD one sure came out nice. What did you use for a tip?

Pictures or explanations of how you made your tip would be greatly appreciated.

I am working up the guts to do my own over the holidays but havent decided what sort of tip I will use yet.
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All i did was wipe off anything off the grip, tape off some edges so I kept clean edges of where the stippling ends. Heated up the Soldering iron (finest tip I had), and pressed gently into the plastic to a comfortable depth. I didn't use anything to keep the depth consistent, just eye balled it. (I used to paint a lot so I am used to repetitive mindless small movements with tools). When I was happy with the result, I went onto the next patch.

When I was done I used different grits of sandpaper to take the agression out of the texture until I was happy. I really think I got lucky on the first try.

I dont really think I am qualified to write a tutorial on how to do it, as there are really amazing jobs out there featuring grip reductions and patterns. Those should be your referene materials. Once I do a few more, I think I will whip one up. I want to do my own 1911 grips next.
 
BabySeal said:
Thanks!

I like it! So you just made a little impression each time. How long did it take to do the whole frame? Must have been a while.

It reminds me of a gecko's foot in that its made up of tiny little dots of grippiness. (If grippiness is an actual word)

Figure11.jpg
Click to expand...

It only took about 60 minutes. Although if you look hard at the frame, it could have been alot more meticulous and consitent. This was for function, not astehtics so I wasn't overally concerned. The G2 light only took about 20.
 
Tuco Pike said:
I like those nifty little speedplate thingys. I'd buy a few if they were at my local gun shop.
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If you order them online at Brownells, they ship right to your door, thus saving you a trip out of the house. That's how my logic works. If I win the lotto, I'm never leaving my house :)

seriously
 
BabySeal said:
That OD one sure came out nice. What did you use for a tip?

Pictures or explanations of how you made your tip would be greatly appreciated.

I am working up the guts to do my own over the holidays but havent decided what sort of tip I will use yet.
Click to expand...

After buying a basic Weller solder iron kit for 20 bucks from home depot, I opened the package up and headed down to the nuts and bolts isle, where you can buy different screws and such in bulk. Find some brass bolts that fit into the threading on the solder iron tip. Buy a handful.

Now using a dremel, shape the brass bolt heads into various shapes, flat, pointy, round, etc.

I had a bag of leftover Magpul XTM rail panels to practice on, practicing is essential for obvious reasons. Once you make a slip -up on a 700 dollar glock you can't take it back!?!?

Just don't go stipple crazy. Like asking the wife if she needs anything stippled in her car, steering wheels, foot pedals, etc.:D
 
Hmm...

A stippled steering wheel you say.

I dont think that would work for me because we have a leather one and a soft squishy plastic on that I would likely DESTROY by applying any heat.

But the wife's hairdryer... now THAT is a good pratice item!
 
I started work on my g19 today. I am going to do a grip reduction on it.

I practiced for a few hours yesterday on the case and decided on a patern for the stippling.

I ground a thick tip flat and then used a triangular jewelers file to cut three parrallel slots in it. The finish looks like an army of little hyphens everywhere and the feeling is quite grippy, but not overly agressive. I will have to post pics when I am done.

Once the epoxy cures I will start trimming that grip. Then I will stipple it.

I just have to decide how I will refinish the frame. The epoxy is grey. I can't leave it that way. I want the gun black again at the very least so I picked up a can of truck bed liner. I am pretty sure I want something better than that for my Glock though. Maybe armacoat?

Any suggestions on re-finishing the frame once it is stippled? It would have to be an air curing finish because of the polymer frame of course.
 
I think there is a brand of Dura coat that does not require baking that works great on polymers. I would go Coyote or Black.

BabySeal said:
I started work on my g19 today. I am going to do a grip reduction on it.

I practiced for a few hours yesterday on the case and decided on a patern for the stippling.

I ground a thick tip flat and then used a triangular jewelers file to cut three parrallel slots in it. The finish looks like an army of little hyphens everywhere and the feeling is quite grippy, but not overly agressive. I will have to post pics when I am done.

Once the epoxy cures I will start trimming that grip. Then I will stipple it.

I just have to decide how I will refinish the frame. The epoxy is grey. I can't leave it that way. I want the gun black again at the very least so I picked up a can of truck bed liner. I am pretty sure I want something better than that for my Glock though. Maybe armacoat?

Any suggestions on re-finishing the frame once it is stippled? It would have to be an air curing finish because of the polymer frame of course.
Click to expand...
 
Right now there are 12 guys buying the last of the soldering irons, 15 guys working up their handyman courage with glocks in hand, 4 guys apologizing to their glocks for screwing up, and 23 guys looting the junk drawer for plastic to practice on.

And its all your fault.

:p
 
canuckgunny said:
Right now there are 12 guys buying the last of the soldering irons, 15 guys working up their handyman courage with glocks in hand, 4 guys apologizing to their glocks for screwing up, and 23 guys looting the junk drawer for plastic to practice on.

And its all your fault.

:p
Click to expand...

LOL, too true!

Actually, I bought a cheapo new soldering iron for this job because I didnt want to get my good one all plasticy. I had to get staff at my local Canadian Tire to unlock the soldering iron cabinet as apparently crack heads love to steal them for making drugs. I had no clue.

But just so you know, its not just us Glock melters that are buying up all the soldering irons.
 
BabySeal said:
LOL, too true!

Actually, I bought a cheapo new soldering iron for this job because I didnt want to get my good one all plasticy. I had to get staff at my local Canadian Tire to unlock the soldering iron cabinet as apparently crack heads love to steal them for making drugs. I had no clue.

But just so you know, its not just us Glock melters that are buying up all the soldering irons.
Click to expand...

Not all Glock owners! M&P ad XD owners too! Oh and crack heads
 
BabySeal

After the fact, the easiest way would probably have been to add dye to the epoxy mix.

Not really sure what kind of epoxy you used, marine epoxy would probably be more resistant towards taking colours. Others may be receptive towards industrial or some leather dyes which have mild corrosive solvents(typically acetone) which add in dye process.

Failing that, if you are comfortable with dunking into a dye bath(warm to hot water), you may try dropping the whole frame into a hot dye bath(Rit dye is commonly used).
 
I did think about dye, but I figured it would take an eternity to mix it for the closest possible match. Then I figured that It would be easier to just arma coat it.

When you get a acra-glass kit, it comes with brown and black dies. I have never gotten a reasonable match with it. I wonder if acra glass will melt. I never even thought of using that.

The stuff I used is Marine Epoxy.
 
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