I picked up a JW20 and it shoots /cycles nice but the barrel comes loose? The take down latch is real stiff and the arm part with the detent pin and spring that is supposed to fit in the barrel nut groove slips and as a result the barrel shoots loose.What Browning parts could be substituted to smooth things out? And is this latch that Norinco makes the old style or more recent type? Would like to keep the gun.......Harold
Jw20
- Thread starter mbogo3
- Start date
Sandpaper, needle files, and a little more care and attention to detail than you got from the folks that built it, and yer good. Make the notches a little deeper, scuff a bit off the side of the latch, touch up as required. Take off a bunch of sharp edges while you are at it.
The latch on the one I have is very stiff, as was the barrel nut. Cannot recall having to muck with the nut retainer, so mine must have worked well enough.
My main solution was to live with it, and only take it down when I need to, for the most part. Takes a minute or less of fiddling with the nut to get it 'right', then it's back to the show. I suppose I could put some thread locker on it, but...
Mine has a Browning extractor in it, as it lost a claw on the original, a long while back. The Browning unit was available, and dropped right in.
For the price, think of them as a kit. The reason they are assembled and sent out, is that it is the easiest way to make sure you have all the parts. Stripping it down and having a go through is pretty close to a requirement. YMMV.
But that's how I see it.
Cheers
Trev
The latch on the one I have is very stiff, as was the barrel nut. Cannot recall having to muck with the nut retainer, so mine must have worked well enough.
My main solution was to live with it, and only take it down when I need to, for the most part. Takes a minute or less of fiddling with the nut to get it 'right', then it's back to the show. I suppose I could put some thread locker on it, but...
Mine has a Browning extractor in it, as it lost a claw on the original, a long while back. The Browning unit was available, and dropped right in.
For the price, think of them as a kit. The reason they are assembled and sent out, is that it is the easiest way to make sure you have all the parts. Stripping it down and having a go through is pretty close to a requirement. YMMV.
But that's how I see it.Cheers
Trev
All I did to mine was a good striping and wipe down with a little brake clean on bolt and firing pin. All so fully stripped locking latch and barrel assembly. Mostly so I understood how it worked. Mine was very stiff and had to use the back end of a screw driver to realease barrel lock. Then exercised/break down like 100 times and all good. Have to adjust barrel nut a few times and now goes together good and tight. Shot about 50 rounds half CCI quiets and only failed to cycle one CCI quiet. Very happy. I probably need better cleaning as cosmoline still coming out from feed spring/cartridge. I will likey have to dive back into it to smooth out some parts. I pretty much prepared myself for a rifle that would not cycle rounds so pleasantly surprised.
I'm surprised it cycled the quiets armilaria, what are they 40 gr @ 700 fps or so? I shot mine with some CB longs but was hand cycling them as expected.
It's not hard to remove the stock and clean out the feed tube and plunger.
It's not hard to remove the stock and clean out the feed tube and plunger.
Yeah I will eventually get to the feed tube. I really was in a rush to try it out as I figured it was going to require some serious effort after the first few shots.
Yes the CCI quiets 710 FPS LR. I bought 500 of them as it was a good deal from Eagle hunting in Richmond BC. I thought I read somewhere that someone on CGN had good cycling from them in there JW 20 or browning cant rememember so gaver a try and low and behold they cycled well. By no means did I give this gun the cleaning that I should have or the attention of fine tuning. Just slapped a rail and red/green dot to the bush I go. The quiets really open up shooting areas for a quick field test
Again very impressed!!! when I finally get out and put a few hundred rounds through her we will see but indications ar looking really good.
- Location
- Whitehorse, Yukon
Mine works well with Remington Subsonic ammo, "Tree Rat" extermination at it's best!
RC
RC
I previously completely stripped it down and de-greased it to the last screw before firing it. I'll have to monkey with the latch or order a Browning replacement...........as well as springs/ detent /plunger ...... otherwise shot good and ran flawless.Should have brought some yellow-jackets just to see if even the TC nose bullets would feed.Not sure why the latch moves to disassemble position while firing though? Do you snug up the barrel ring nut snug to the carrier or back it off a turn?Don't want barrel wobble.Will only be taking apart for cleaning likely.Is the barrel nut the same thread as the Browning?
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Canna tell ya if its the same as Browning. I adjust mine so that the action snugs up rock solid when the barrel is installed, needing a little bit of force to bring it the last eighth of an inch or so into alignment, then slide the latch in.
Never had mine shoot loose, but it does take a firm hand to undo, and some care to keep a thumb on the bolt to keep it clear of the barrel as it turns.
Without ripping mine down for a look, I'd say that looking at the general fit of the nut to the barrel, as well as looking over how the detent pin fits the notches in the nut, would be in order.
Cheers
Trev
Never had mine shoot loose, but it does take a firm hand to undo, and some care to keep a thumb on the bolt to keep it clear of the barrel as it turns.
Without ripping mine down for a look, I'd say that looking at the general fit of the nut to the barrel, as well as looking over how the detent pin fits the notches in the nut, would be in order.
Cheers
Trev
Does the adjuster ring make a "ratcheting" noise when you turn it Harald? When I adjusted mine I was able to tighten it up with the barrel in position then I disassembled the barrel and adjusted a few more clicks until it was snug like Trevj described..
The nut is not turnable unless forend is removed and even then if brutally stiff.Sometimes clicks other times no. May have to remove barrel lock/nut etc and take a 12ga copper brush to the inside threads to clean that up as well? The latch is very crudely finished.Will try polishing as suggested and plan "B" Browning parts.Once I get the barrel to stay put the rest of the gun is fine.Harold
- Location
- Alberta, North America
They all seem to have barrel wobble...not much you can do about it due to the fit. Mine fires fine. But barrel wobble is annoying.
Mines tight but it takes a firm grip to index it home.... How much force do you use to index yours?
Try adding a click to the adjustment.
I don't think browning parts will help if the receiver and the barrel are not squarely mated.
Try adding a click to the adjustment.
I don't think browning parts will help if the receiver and the barrel are not squarely mated.
For the guys that are having wobble. You shouldn't.
If the adjuster nut is properly adjusted, it should take a firm hand to bring the barrel into alignment with the notch that locks it to the action.
If you have wobble, you need to play with the adjuster some, and sort it out. Ideally, you should find a position in which it 'just' locks up snug at the same time the latch aligns, but you pretty much are at the mercy of the guys that built it, having had a good day or not.
I suppose a fella could remove the fore end and snug the nut up that way, but all I did was to play with it until I got it where I needed.
Cheers
Trev
If the adjuster nut is properly adjusted, it should take a firm hand to bring the barrel into alignment with the notch that locks it to the action.
If you have wobble, you need to play with the adjuster some, and sort it out. Ideally, you should find a position in which it 'just' locks up snug at the same time the latch aligns, but you pretty much are at the mercy of the guys that built it, having had a good day or not.
I suppose a fella could remove the fore end and snug the nut up that way, but all I did was to play with it until I got it where I needed.
Cheers
Trev
