K or L Frame S&W?

sharp21

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I'm looking at 2 357 revolvers right now.

The K frame is a little bit cheaper & has Hogue grips. The L frame is one of the models that was recalled (586 dash nothing..) with regular grips. Both are blued finish.

I plan on taking it to the range a bit & shooting IDPA once or twice a year.

I was all set on the 586 as its built to shoot 357's all day long, but it wasn't repaired after the recall. How big a deal is that?

With the amount that I'll be shooting does it matter if I get the lighter K frame?

Thanks
S.
 
The K framed .357's will shoot a fair number of magnums just fine for years IF you stick to the heavier bullet options. All the reports of cracking forcing cones were attributed to shooting the light 110gn and maybe to some extent the 124gn bullets with full power magnum loads. No one has reported any issues when shooting 158gn Magnums that I've managed to come across. And being the owner of a K framed model 19 it's something that I googled in a lot of different ways.

But likely you'll be mostly shooting either regular .38Spl or .38Spl +P's. Especially for IDPA match shooting.

To tell the truth full power magnum loads from a fairly light K frame tend to rattle my fillings. However some slightly toned down magnums that I loaded up using 158gn JHP bullets were strong enough to grin about but didn't smack the hand as badly. So assuming you'll get into reloading you'll also have options. If it matters the loads I made up were 12 and 14 gns of 2400 behind the Speer 158gn JHP. With 14 gns it was up to full power and really wasn't all that much fun in the K frame. But in my heavier N framed Model 28 the recoil was easy to manage and easily powerful enough for big grins all around. And the 2400 gives the most satisfying HUGE fireball :D. The slightly lighter 12 gn loads in the K frame were far nicer to shoot. They don't smack like factory magnums, still give a nice looking impressive fireball and all in all seemed to be much more in tune with the lighter K frame gun while still being much more stout than some +P I'd shot.

Besides, the K frame guns are classics. They really do fit the hand and balance better for me than my other heavier revolvers. For shooting mostly .38Spl in IDPA and range fun you won't go wrong.
 
I would go for the K Frame. It is going to be lighter, the previous poster alluded to the fact you likely will shoot a lot more .38spl rds through it than .357mag, though the gun is made for .357MAG. IDPA is currently reviewing the Power Factor for SSR Division. At 125 it is well into or above +P territory and .38spl ammo from the factory just doesn't make PF. We should know of hte new level next month.

If the gun has a barrel length >4.2" than it only can be shot in IDPA in Canada under our exemption.

Take Care

Bob
 
One other thing to look at is that most of the K frames do not have a pinned front sight which means that you cannot change it for a fiber optic unit that a lot of the guys who use these to compete with like to do. Just something to look at when buying.

Graydog
 
Thanks for the replies.

Really I'd like to go with the stouter L frame. The only thing stopping me is that it hasnt had the recall & I don't want to have to ship it across the border to get it fixed!

The K frame kind of bugs me in that its a 357 that cant shoot only 357's! I'll probably go with an older N frame if thats the case...

The barrel length of all of these guns is 6", but is IDPA exempt in Canada so no worries there. Although there is a model 28 with a custom 4 1/4" barrel...

S.
 
Really I'd like to go with the stouter L frame. The only thing stopping me is that it hasnt had the recall & I don't want to have to ship it across the border to get it fixed!

The K frame kind of bugs me in that its a 357 that cant shoot only 357's! I'll probably go with an older N frame if thats the case...

The barrel length of all of these guns is 6", but is IDPA exempt in Canada so no worries there. Although there is a model 28 with a custom 4 1/4" barrel..

I agree that the L frame is the better choice if range/target is your main use, and that you intend to shoot full 357mags.

That recall was to fix a cylinder binding problem on some units. What was happening was that with some ammo, after firing, primers would flow into the firing pin hole on the recoil shield. The particular piece you are looking at may not even need the modification. I do think that whoever services Smiths now will still do the fix if you want. I have a no-dash 586 that has not yet exhibited the problem so it's staying untouched.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

Really I'd like to go with the stouter L frame. The only thing stopping me is that it hasnt had the recall & I don't want to have to ship it across the border to get it fixed!

The K frame kind of bugs me in that its a 357 that cant shoot only 357's! I'll probably go with an older N frame if thats the case...

The barrel length of all of these guns is 6", but is IDPA exempt in Canada so no worries there. Although there is a model 28 with a custom 4 1/4" barrel...

S.

The 4.25" barrel is still to long for IDPA in the US. There are rumours that S&W is going to produce a 4.2" barreled gun next fall. I wouldn't hold my breath but you never know. Ruger does and is selling a lot of guns up here because of it. I have the GP 100 for SSR in 4.2". The gun works well and is built like a tank. Other than I have to get the throats reamed out as they are really to tight for shooting lead the gun works well in IDPA. The trigger is not as smooth as my K 28 but is certainly not rough.

Take Care

Bob
 
I had a "no dash" 686 that was eligible for the recall and fired hundreds of magnum rounds without an issue. I would not let that enter into your decision--even if the prospective revolver you're considering had the problem as mentioned upthread it's an easy fix. I'd go for the model you really want.

I must admit that (although I don't own one now) that K Frames have wonderful balance that L Frames don't. If you were planning on shooting mostly .38s a K Frame might be a better bet. However, if you're thinking of more than the occasional magnum round the 586 might be the best choice. L Frames also have less recoil--and the 586 is a great model. (FWIW, I own two L framed 686s, a 3" CS1 model and a 5" Performance Centre)
 
I see a factory 107mm barreled 686 being advertised as 'coming soon'. This works out to 4.216"

Would this be IDPA legal in the US?

John

If S&W advertises it as a 4.2" gun, and I think they might in the end, then you would be good to go. I can't imagine they will advertise it in metric in the American market. If they did market as a 4.216" gun then as it stands right now it would be a no go for IDPA in the US. All S&W have to do is round it to the nearest tenth of an inch which is what 107MM works out to and yes it would be legal in the US.

Take Care

Bob
 
Yes that is my guess. No doubt this gun was built for the California market - and a few other states I don't recall- that have barrel length restrictions and mag capacity restrictions similar to ours.

John
 
i have shot and owned both and have to say try each and find what works for you. my 586 is a no dash and has had the "M" update done when it was first annouced by S&W in the eighties. all they do is change the bushing in the firing pin hole to one with a slightly smaller hole. The gunsmith did it in about 10 minutes. i never had issues with full house 357 loads before or since. do not worry that it has not had the update. The older prelock and pin on the hammer guns were in my opinion better built and easier to get a good trigger on. just my 2 cents
 
Wortners gun works in chattam ontario is a S&W center, he can do any recall work and you don't have to ship over the border :D

Give them a call. My brother had a 586 and had problems, and called them. They did the recall work and fixed it, all for free! This was about 6 months ago....
 
I don't really care about the barrel length. IDPA Canada lets you shoot with a 6" & I don't anticipate "going pro" & touring the US!

I've also come across a GP100 that has only had 3 boxes down the pipe, so basically brand new. Same price. I might just go with that as I've heard nothing but good things about the Ruger reliability & a bunch of guys use it for IDPA as well.

S.
 
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