Is there some trick to getting this thing back together? It came apart easy enough but I can't seem to get the slide far enough back to drop into the frame with the recoil spring in. When I took the spring out to see if everything lined up it went back together fine. I am pulling it back as far as physically possible but it doesn't seem to go far enough back to drop back in. Anyone have any tips?
K100 MK 12 X Trim Assembly
- Thread starter TPeck
- Start date
If its is similar to the Mk7, the barrel needs to be forward of the slide to re-assemble the gun.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpu70Fioo1s
This video should help. Canuck223's posts should be of help as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpu70Fioo1s
This video should help. Canuck223's posts should be of help as well.
A new recoil spring does make for an interesting learning curve on the MK12. After years of relative ease in stripping the Mk5/6/7, I found I had to brace the butt of the gun on my gut when reassembling. It does get easier with practice.
1) Make sure the barrel is full forward before you start.
2) Grab the takedown notches with your left thumb and forefinger, with your middle finger through the trigger guard, butt of the gun braced on your gut.
3) Pull the slide over the recoil spring guide. When it reaches the end of it's travel, pull down the takedown latches to allow it the extra movement back.
1) Make sure the barrel is full forward before you start.
2) Grab the takedown notches with your left thumb and forefinger, with your middle finger through the trigger guard, butt of the gun braced on your gut.
3) Pull the slide over the recoil spring guide. When it reaches the end of it's travel, pull down the takedown latches to allow it the extra movement back.
Thanks for the tips guys. I eventually figured it out but you practically need three hands to do it. My issue was I wasn't getting the takedown latches down enough and the slide was catching on those. Once I figured that out I got my brother to pull down on them and voila. I'm going to try canucks method next time.
It was the first time out with the new gun tonight and wow what a trigger. It has the shortest reset I've seen. Had a few stove pipes and slide failed to lock back a few times on the empty mag but what an accurate gun. Most of the stove pipes happened when someone else was shooting but I'm not sure if limp writing could cause those. Canuck do you have any insight into whether this gun has a break in period?
It was the first time out with the new gun tonight and wow what a trigger. It has the shortest reset I've seen. Had a few stove pipes and slide failed to lock back a few times on the empty mag but what an accurate gun. Most of the stove pipes happened when someone else was shooting but I'm not sure if limp writing could cause those. Canuck do you have any insight into whether this gun has a break in period?
The X-Calibur and X-Trim are machined to tighter tolerances, and may need a few hundred rounds down the pipe to break in properly.
The K100 and the rest of the line should run out of the box with just a clean up of the assembly lube.
If you were having stove pipes, it is possible it was a grip problem.
After assembly but before test firing, the guns take a ride on Pokeroo to lap the slides, frames, and barrels together. It lets us machine the mating surfaces to closer tolerances for accuracy without compromising reliability.
