K31 Tunnel Front Sight

Dogman01

Member
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Calgary
4nMAIGP.jpg
[/IMG]


Hi
I have a Diopter on my K31.
My front sight pictured above is the 5 CM tunnel, soldered on replacing the blade sight mounting.

A few Questions:
Q1. Does this type of front sight have a specific name? (it is different then the more common ones I see with Diopters).

I find the front post a bit thick.

Q2. Does it use inserts and if so what are the specs of the replacements and where can I acquire a set?

Q3. The rear appears to be removable(to add an insert) however, mine is very tight and will not budge by hand.
It their a method to remove (a quarter may fit in the slots) and I assume it is righty-tighty and lefty-loosey?

Thanks!
 
Oil the slot where the threads show through and around the knurled round nut and leave overnight. Repeat for a few days before attempting to turn.
Try a rubber strap wrench before marring up the nut.

Those were made by Hämmerli. Believe they are an M16 insert diameter size (15.1mm)
Vostok CM2 (early) & Ural (early), Parker Hale FS22 / PH1 O.D. .594" 15.1mm

Measure the diameter when you can take it off.

Try contacting Paul Reibin, Range Sports In Kamloops, B.C. for usable inserts.

Larger width posts were preferred for rapid fire on the hard to see camouflaged B4 300m military silhouette targets. The aim point often being the bottom edge of the target frame.
 
Last edited:
Lee Shaver gunsmithing in the USA also sells his inserts for several makes of tunnel sights.
He shows 2 sets, each with 10 various inserts for the Parker Hale 0.590" size of insert at $25.00 US/set.
I had/used some ages ago made for both the Parker Hale and Lyman sights and was pleased with them.
 
I started the Swiss programs in Calgary.......I need every advantage I can get, considering the club experience\competition.
 
5 Clicks on the rear sight gives you a correction of 2 scoring rings on Swiss and ISSF 300m targets.
Eg: from 8pts to 10 pts.
If on the outside edge of 8 ring you will need 6-7 clicks to get into the X-ring
Swiss and German target sights are corrected by where the shot WAS

If shot is high at 12 o'clock, correct BY(bei in german, it's on the rear sight) direction H for high, Hoch in German.
L and R same as in English, Links for left, Rechts for right
Tief for low, just think "you low down thief"

Try to avoid thinking clockwise= ###X, and counterclockwise = YYYYY., just makes you lose points most of the time.
Just have to look at rear sight and see "bei"to know which direction to correct.

P1010811.jpg
 
Last edited:
The U.S. made Swiss Products diopters correct in the direction you want the shot to go. they have only an arrow on each knob.

Older version of Swiss Products Diopter sight
P1010188.jpg


Newest version:
2009-diopter-017.jpg


Click adjustment values are the same as all the Swiss W&F, Hämmerli and Wyss made diopters
 
Last edited:
Sight corrections log sheet for 300m Swiss A10, round black, and camouflaged military silhouette Swiss B4 targets.
Diopter-A10-amp-B4clicks.jpg


Numbers on grid bottom and right side are number of click corrections for impacts.
 
Pre sight-in routine is important.
Everyone get caught not checking for loose action screws before the first shots.

Sighting in a W&F diopter set:See notes at end for a Swiss Products Diopter

Pre-sight in:
1) Make sure rifle is unloaded.
2) Install diopter set properly on to the rifle. Make sure all the diopter screws are tight.
3) Loosen both action screws and both barrel band screws.
4) Hold rifle vertically with its butt plate against the ground, grab barrel and push towards butt.
5) Tighten front action screw first, then tang screw. Some rifles are better if you back off tang screw slightly.
6) Tighten front barrel band. Barrel should be centered in stock. Leave slightly loose for most rifles.
7) Tighten sling barrel band only enough so that the spring detente can still be moved when you press on it.

Sight in:
1) Get into shooting position with unloaded rifle. Everything you will need to shoot should be within arms reach. Do not get up or move your elbows too much.
2) Find the best place for your cheek on the stock. You should be fairly close to the safety ring. I use my thumb as a spacer between the ring and my nose to get the same cheek position time after time. I of course lower my thumb before firing.
3) Center the front sight hood in rear sight. Should have equal amount of space all around the outside of the front side hood.
4) Aim at target, center it in the middle of your front sight ring or on top of the front sight post with a slight gap between the top of the post and the bottom of the target.
5) You should always be focusing on the front sight, not the target.
6) Dry fire a couple times.
7) Move to the third smallest hole available on the rear diopter sight.
8 ) See how sharp the front post or aperture is.
9) Compare the sharpness of the front sight using smaller and larger rear diopter hole sizes. Look for the clearest possible setting for the light conditions you have that day.
10) Now you can load the rifle! I just saved you a lot of money in ammo.
11) Keep a sheet of paper and a pencil handy. Keep track of every shot.
12) First shot is a fouler. Write:"1- F", and its clock position.
13) Fire three more shots and write down their clock positions.
14) Estimate where the center of shots 2, 3 and 4 is and correct accordingly. Remember each click is 1/4 MOA.
15) Repeat from 13 until you are sighted in.
Notes:
All of the following are more noticeable as the shooting distance increases.
1) Expect your point of impact to change during the course of the day as the sun changes it position relative to the target.
2) If you change aperture size after sight-in, you most likely will have re-sight it again.
3) Changes in cheek position WILL affect your sighting.
4) Changes in body positions WILL affect you sighting.
5) Do not mix ammo, I always try to use the same lot of ammo in a session, even with GP11.

W&F diopter adjustments are by where the shot was.
Example
If you shooting high at 12 o'clock, correct by turning the knob in direct H, for High.T= Low( remember: Stop, you LOW down THIEF),
R= Right, L= Left.

Swiss Products diopter corrections are by where you want the shot to go.Iris uses leaf type blades.
Suggestions for the latest version:
a) Center the left/right adjustment before mounting the rear sight. and
b) Lower the elevation all the way down GENTLY, no need to show off your strength here and strip the thread.
c) leave the front sight slightly loose to to adjust left /right more easily with the most adjustment range still left on the rear sight.

Front sight must be move in the opposite direction you to move the impact to go_Once you are reasonable close, tight the front sight down all the way.The problem MOST of the people I have helped with shooting a K31, or any other sizable rifle, have is flinching.The best way to overcome it is by calling your shots. If you have no idea where you last shot went, then either your eyes were closed or the sights were moving too much from jerking the trigger. Should this happen to you( It does to EVERYONE now and then), dry-fire until you see the sights are stable during the firing process.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom