Kentucky rifle ramrod question

Claven2

Claven2

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Is the ramrod on a kentucky rifle supposed to be mechanically retained in the ramrod channel of the stock, or is it supposed to be merely loose fitting? Do you fire the gun with the ramrod in place, or it is generally removed before firing?

Thanks :)
 
Usually the rod is retained by friction, should stay in place and is left there. If the rod is shifting under recoil, its probably too loose. Many military firearms have a retainer.
 
If you are using a Hickory ramrod as most Kentucky rifles did you will not need a retainer. It would be held by the natural curveature of the rod.If you are using plastic, or metal like the military a retainer would be needed.
 
The rod is hickory, tipped in brass at both ends, but it is not hled in by itself - it's loose.

Rifle is a Marstar Armi-Sport.

Any suggested fixes? I had a talk with Marstar and it seems all their Kentuckys are like this.
 
since we're considering it's 2 pieces of wood we're talking about( both the stock and the rod) i'm wondering if something hasn't shrunk ( ie the rod) or swollen( the stock)or both- maybe a good steaming?- action removed of course
 
Original wooden rods were often tapered, which helped retain them. I wonder if a little spring detent could be fitted somewhere toward the breech in the barrel inlet. Your '63 repro probably has something like that.
 
I don't think anything has shrunk or swollen. The stock is oiled and isn't going to change much. The rod looks to maybe be stained and waxed? Not 1005 sure. It is, however, completely straight (lathe-turned?) and fitting snugly in its brasses.

What about a small tension shim of wood or felt glued into the ramrod channel to snug things up?
 
Sure, a shim would be worth trying. Or a little peg as you suggested - maybe it could engage a notch or groove in the metal ramrod tip. ML shotguns have little retaining lips that catch the tip - you pull the rod away from the barrels slightly to release the rod. Incidentally, it isn't a bad idea to use a separate loading rod for range use - a longer, unbreakable one is handy - and reserve the other rod for field use. And, if the load is going down tight, from fouling, etc. be really careful with a wooden rod. I've put splinters into my hand from a broken wooden rod. And that was a proper hickory one, not a hardware store dowel.
 
Oh yes, I have separate brass range rods fo actually loading. The hickory is mostly for show and field use as you suggest :) My '63 does have a retainer spring which is why I was wondering if Kentuckys did or not.

The rod does have a jag slotted brass on one end, perhaps I can devise something to engage that under the bbl...?

Though likely a peg or shim near the muzzle would be easiest.

Will advise...
 
Claven2 said:
I don't think anything has shrunk or swollen. The stock is oiled and isn't going to change much. The rod looks to maybe be stained and waxed? Not 1005 sure. It is, however, completely straight (lathe-turned?) and fitting snugly in its brasses.

What about a small tension shim of wood or felt glued into the ramrod channel to snug things up?
Click to expand...

I like this the best. Some guns have a small flat metal spring under one of the barrel lug screws. Be careful what you wish for - I've seen them so tight you need pliers and good yank to get them out (a couple of wussy brits can do it sometimes :D )

On my guns, the tension varies some with the humidity. You can also oil up the rod with some boiled linseed oil or other drying oil - the bit of stickiness sometimes is enough to hold it in. Other trick is to flatten one of the brass barrels a tad if the rod is only a bit loose.

On my Armi Sport Kentucky, the rod stays put (20 year old gun), but the rod in my Lyman creeps a bit on recoil.
 
I made my rod loose and prefer it that way. I also do not find a particular problem with carrying the gun in the bush. Keep the muzzle slightly up when walking. Retaining springs and so forth are just something else to break or rust.
If you have a close fitting rod and go out in the rain, it can swell up and stick, in my experience.
I load exlusively with a wooden rod and break one perhaps every couple of years, usually due to flaws in the wood. By keeping your hand no more than 6" above the barrel and loading with a series of taps, you reduce the risk of injury to minimal.

cheers mooncoon
 
OK, well I think I have this problem licked. I noticed that when I turn the rod, it's loose twice and snug twice. I suspect the curvature of the rod IS enough to hold it in place, but only at two positions, if you visualize what I mean?

Still haven't fired it and it might moave a little on recoil - we'll see. I think it will stay snug if positioned properly though ;)
 
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