Key holes!!!! And maybe holes for scope bases are off!!
- Thread starter 6.5x55swm
- Start date
What bullets?
Start with a really good bore clean, remove all the fouling, it will probably take some time and elbow grease. With the patches in the bore try to feel for loose spots, especially at the muzzle. Check for a bulge at the muzzle.
What bullet weight, and is the twist correct for that weight? Factory or reloads?
Keyholes are a result of unstabilized bullets, any source or cause needs to be checked. I would also check the throat for wear.
What bullet weight, and is the twist correct for that weight? Factory or reloads?
Keyholes are a result of unstabilized bullets, any source or cause needs to be checked. I would also check the throat for wear.
Then something is definitely very wrong. Those are not overly long bullets for a 22.250 with a 1: 14" twist, so it's not a twist mis-match.
Is there any throat left in your barrel?
Any chance it has a custom barrel or the original barrel has been re-bored to a 6mm-250, by any chance?
Those should stabilize with no issues in a 1:14 twist .
Is the muzzle badly dinged up.maybe?
Cat
Remove the bolt & while looking through the breech end of the receiver into & through the barrel, hold the rifle up to a bright light. You should see sharp rifling starting just after the chamber, continuing throughout the barrel. Is that what you see?
Now reverse the process. You should see sharp rifling right up to the bore's crown.
Now look at the barrel muzzle. Where the steel at the muzzle end of the barrel meets the inside of the barrel, are there any gouges or bumps?
Since you have Burris Zee rings installed, are they the ones with plastic inserts?
Loosen the screws on one side of your scope rings just a bit until you can twist the scope with your hand. Again, with the bolt removed, look through the scope at a specific point either on the wall or at a point outside. Do the cross-hairs stay put on that point as you rotate the scope around its axis, or does the point change as you rotate the scope?
Removing iron sights will not cause bullets to key-hole.
Now reverse the process. You should see sharp rifling right up to the bore's crown.
Now look at the barrel muzzle. Where the steel at the muzzle end of the barrel meets the inside of the barrel, are there any gouges or bumps?
Since you have Burris Zee rings installed, are they the ones with plastic inserts?
Loosen the screws on one side of your scope rings just a bit until you can twist the scope with your hand. Again, with the bolt removed, look through the scope at a specific point either on the wall or at a point outside. Do the cross-hairs stay put on that point as you rotate the scope around its axis, or does the point change as you rotate the scope?
Removing iron sights will not cause bullets to key-hole.
- Location
- Southern Vancouver Island
I'd try using Weaver classic style rings meself. They be light and strong & have not failed me in 50+ yrs of use.
T'would be a good thing to check the alignment of the factory drilled mount holes on the receiver in relation to the center of the barrel at
the muzzle to get a better read on the situation I reckon.
T'would be a good thing to check the alignment of the factory drilled mount holes on the receiver in relation to the center of the barrel at
the muzzle to get a better read on the situation I reckon.
BCSteve nailed it & picked up on what I missed; the V-Max part. I ran right past that & wrongly presumed it was a normal C&C 55 gr. Varmint bullet when I saw Federal Blue-box. MEA CULPA! This is what Berger has to say:
Have a look at this thread:
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/threads/22-250-and-55-grain-v-max.2201461/
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/threads/22-250-and-55-grain-v-max.2201461/
