Kibler's longrifles

[rwnblack]

Unfortunately I don’t live close to the border any more. I can buy the Ferric Nitrate powder and make it up that way. I have enough on hand for this project but I will need to buy some for the next.

The barrel is 44” long and very nicely swamped. The inleting was amazing and the barrel fits as tight as a glove.

Today I am doing the finish filing and sanding today. Might get the tannic acid and aqua fortis on it today or tomorrow.

 

[rwnblack]

Next up is stock and metal finishing.

 

[Beater]

that is a beutiful looking rifle. i am curious if even the ramrod pipe slots were cut?

 

[rwnblack]

Thanks,

The pipes were cut in as well, just needed some final inletting.

that is a beutiful looking rifle. i am curious if even the ramrod pipe slots were cut?

 

[rwnblack]

I coated it with tannic acid, let it dry, coatedwith aquafortis, now it isdrrying before I heat it to turn it red, brown from the ugly green color. Wish me luck.

 

[ryan]

I am certain it will turn out just fine. Nice figure in that wood.

 

[Beater]

what is the advantage of this style staining over storebought stains?

 

[rwnblack]

First coat of oil is on. I think it will pop more when I get more oil worked in but I like the color.

 

[vmxracer]

Simply amazing. Figure is amazing. Is it possible to give us a step by step process on how you went from bare wood to the last coat of finnish. Im sure we all want ours to turn as nice as your did thank you for taking us along for the build +1

 

[amccain]

I notice, on Kibler's website, they offer 3 grades of maple. Is your's the "fancy" or "extra fancy" grade? Looks great.

 

[rwnblack]

Thanks, it is the extra fancy grade. The process is pretty simple, wipe on tannic acid (or strong tea), let dry. Wipe on the aquafortis solution, let dry. I put in a second coat and let dry. Heat with a heat gun until it turns red/brown, be careful not to scorch corners. Then I piled on the oil and rubbed down with 360 grit scotch bright and oil. I wiped it off with a cloth, then rubbed down with the left over piece of ramrod dowel. Now I will rub a few coats of oil, sanding with wet and dry paper in between. I started it all after supper and finished by bedtime. It will take a week or two to get the oil worked into the stock before I assemble it.

 

[rwnblack]

Here is are pics of the stock after heating before adding oil.

 

[vmxracer]

Great info for my up coming build. What type of oil are you useing, Like truoil?

 

[rwnblack]

Thanks, I am using pure tung oil from Lee Valley Tools. I use a blend of the polymerized tung oil and the tung oil sealer so it has a more satin finish. I have used True Oil but it gets to glossy for this application.

 

[tiriaq]

Anyone who is interested really should look up Jim Kibler on the 'net, study his website and watch his videos. He is doing amazing things with very modern methods, without losing any of the style of antique long rifles. The lockplate in this thread is CNC machined from a block of steel. Doesn't look it. And none of the QC issues that arise with wax castings.
The barrel is machined octagon with a swamped contour; the underlugs are part of the barrel, and are formed during the CNC machining of the blank.

 

[rwnblack]

I made some progress and gave the barrel, trigger guard, toe plate, triggers a patina finish. I gave them one round of rust blue finish then rubbed back with 800 grit Scotch bright pad and put it back together for fun. I still need to do the lock and redo the ramrod pipes. I put few coats of Tung oil and gave it a bit of a satin finish.

 

[tiriaq]

An impressive project!

 

[rwnblack]

I patina finished the lock and pipes last night. I have a few screws to tweak otherwise it is ready to try out.

 

[gunsaholic]

Superb looking rifle.

 

[Pete04]

Looks Great!
Thanks for sharing.