Kimber 84M 308 Accuracy Issues / Reloading suggestions

Guisharley

Guisharley

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Good day to all,

I have recently purchased a brand new Kimber 84M chambered in .308 win. It has a 22’’ barrel with a twist rate of 1:12. Swarovski Z3 3-10 x 42, Tally mounts.

I brought it to the range yesterday for the first time. After a proper break-in, I attempted some accuracy tests with factory loads (5 shot groups at 100yds), and the results were catastrophic!

Remington 180 core-lokt : Nothing under 4’’
Barnes 150 grs TTSX : Average of 2’’ to 3’’
Custom Load Lapua Scenar 167 grs, 40,4 grs Varget : Average of 2’’ to 3’’ (this is a very accurate load in my Remington MillSpec 5R)

I expected that this rifle would easily achieve groupings of under 1’’ at 100yds!

Do you have any suggestions for an accurate hunting load for this caliber / barrel length / twist rate configuration? Where should I start with my load attempts?

This rifle will be used exclusively for deer hunting, at ranges anywhere between 0 to 200 yds.

Thanks for you help and suggestions!
 
Check your mag box, to ensure it isn't binding against the stock, and that the front action screw isn't bottoming out agains the barrel before you get worried about loads.

Pull the stock off and look for rubs in the mag well and what not.
 
Remove the action action screw and count the number of revs to release it. With stock removed, screw in the action screw and count the revs. Should be at least one rev more than what was used to mount the stock.

The only factory rifles I have seen that could reliably shoot tight groups out of the box were Remington pumps and Accuracy International.

All the others needed some basic bedding to make them shoot and to hold a good zero.

As for things that might be out of wack, besides a bottomed action screw -

- Loose scope bases. I always blue Loktite the bases crews since they can't be checked one the scope is installed.

- Some part of the action acting as a recoil lug that should not, such as an action screw or the rear of the tang.

- Loose scope rings. Several times I have had a poor range result and then discovered that I half forgotten to tighten one half of one of the rings.


Have you taken a Varget hand load, and worked it up from 36 gr? I have had rifles that would only group at one end of the scale or the other. My 22 Hornet only grouped when I accidently loaded ammo 5 gr too light.
 
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I just got the same rifle, 84M Montana. A couple of things:
- what's your trigger at for weight? Mine was 4 lbs! I lightened the pull to about 2 lbs. There's info on the net on how to do it and it's simple but if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, get a gunsmith, they can do it in a few minutes.
- check the mag box like others said

It takes a little practice to shoot ultralight rifles well, but I'm willing to bet the trigger lightening would help a lot. Kimbers have awesome triggers but it seems that they're leaving the factory "lawyer proof" lately as well.

I fired about 30 rounds today I had kicking around and after the mag trim and trigger adjust both loads were about 1", and that's without tinkering with handloads.
 
Check for the mag box being pinched between the action and floorplate. The quick check is to reach in through the bottom and see if you can get a tiny bit of movement. The definitive test is to take it out altogether and shoot it as a single shot. Damn near every Kimber has a pinched box.

Check to make sure the front base screw doesn't bottom out, and that the front action screw isn't bottomed.

Make sure the barrel is cold. Not lukewarm, not manageably warm, not any kind of warm. Cold. Some will not shoot a third shot into the group warm. That's a regular PITA for working up loads. You can pretty much forget about 5 shot groups.

The round fore-end and light weight conspire to make bench shooting a challenge. Be a stickler for leveling your crosshairs every shot and hold the grip firmly. You are the damping system, the rifle doesn't have any weight of its own to calm recoil or torque. Especially torque.

I'm just in the process of working up loads for my 5th one. 3 out of 4 of the others shot better with fore-end pressure and the exception is a heavy barrel. I'll lay money on the 5th one getting a Devcon pad up front too.

Cleaning: Whatever you are doing, do the opposite. I've had a lot of rifles that won't group clean, and a very few that had to be completely clean.

Set the trigger lighter. Its hard to shoot a 5 pound rifle with a 4 pound trigger.
 
Guisharley said:
Good day to all,

I have recently purchased a brand new Kimber 84M chambered in .308 win. It has a 22’’ barrel with a twist rate of 1:12. Swarovski Z3 3-10 x 42, Tally mounts.

I brought it to the range yesterday for the first time. After a proper break-in, I attempted some accuracy tests with factory loads (5 shot groups at 100yds), and the results were catastrophic!

Remington 180 core-lokt : Nothing under 4’’
Barnes 150 grs TTSX : Average of 2’’ to 3’’
Custom Load Lapua Scenar 167 grs, 40,4 grs Varget : Average of 2’’ to 3’’ (this is a very accurate load in my Remington MillSpec 5R)

I expected that this rifle would easily achieve groupings of under 1’’ at 100yds!

Do you have any suggestions for an accurate hunting load for this caliber / barrel length / twist rate configuration? Where should I start with my load attempts?

This rifle will be used exclusively for deer hunting, at ranges anywhere between 0 to 200 yds.

Thanks for you help and suggestions!
Click to expand...

Check what the others mentioned first. Action screw, mag box to start. Lighten the trigger for sure...

Is this your first lightweight rifle?

I personally think that Kimbers get a lot of bad rep from guys/gals shooting them that have never shot a lightweight rifle before. This has been proven over on 24hourcampfire more than a few times.

Bearkilr has obviously shot a lightweight rifle before, no question. If he can do an inch or under with a few loads that weren't tailored for his new Kimber on the first day of having it. I'm interested in the results once he starts loading for it.
 
Anything that Kimbers give up in bench shooting they make back in "in the hands" field shooting. The little slim, trim things hold and point like a stick. I haven't met anyone who couldn't point a stick.
 
Thank you all for your feedback,

I did a thorough inspection of the rifle, based on your suggestions and comments :

1. The trigger was set from the factory at 4 lbs. I tuned it down to 2.5 lbs
2. The magazine box definitely seemed to have been “pinched” between the floor plate assembly and the action (no movement possible at all)...
3. The front action screw seemed to have been “bottomed out”
4. To solve problem 2 and 3 above, I’ve installed thin spacers (washers) on the action screws between the floor plate assembly and the stock. I don’t know if this is a proper procedure, but it definitely seems to have resolved issues 2 and 3. Is there a better solution? Trim down the magazine box and shorten the action screw? (scary!!...)
5. I have completely disassembled the scope and mounts, and reassembled using blue lock tight and a torque wrench. Everything here looked very tight...
6. The barrel is free-floating, but there is very little play at the front (between the black ebony forend and the barrel). Could this have an impact?

Also, yes, this if my first experience with a rifle this lightweight. I own numerous benchrest type rifles that weight well over 15 lbs. Nevertheless, I can’t imagine that I would be the sole cause of groupings of over 4’’!? If so, the lower trigger pull should definitely help a lot...

I will be heading to the range this weekend, with a myriad of different types of ammunition, and will let you know the results. Hopefully, it will be better than the last time...

Thanks again & best regards!
 
One other thing to note is that if you're using Talley Lightweight mounts, the front screw on the front ring/base has a tendency to bottom out on the barrel threading. I don't know why Talley doesn't send their setup with one shorter screw, but they don't. I shortened this one a hair. I don't think you can exert enough force on this to make a difference with accuracy, but I didn't like it for fear of the front base not being solid.
 
bearkilr said:
One other thing to note is that if you're using Talley Lightweight mounts, the front screw on the front ring/base has a tendency to bottom out on the barrel threading. I don't know why Talley doesn't send their setup with one shorter screw, but they don't. I shortened this one a hair. I don't think you can exert enough force on this to make a difference with accuracy, but I didn't like it for fear of the front base not being solid.
Click to expand...

Leupold was the same, had to shorten the front screw on their bases.
 
I've found that mine could not shoot worth a damn with 3 different Norma 180gr loads ( can't remember loads or group sizes, it was a few years ago)
but shoots less than 1" @100 with 150gr Hornady GMX Superperformance. Does not like 165 GMX, but loved the Federal High Energy 180gr Nosler Partitions.
When you get shooting straight you may not find a nicer rifle to carry, be it to the treestand, or over mountains.
 
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