Well that sucks.
Kimber Lite firing pin Strikes
- Thread starter wallz
- Start date
Well that sucks.
With primers being so hard to find, I don't have a choice to change to federal. I've only got CCI. I will see if I can hunt some down, but that is going to be hard.
Out of the 15 I reloaded last night with different nickel cases instead of the hornady brass, only one did not fire. Maybe the fidling with taking apart the bolt, and I did leave the firing pin adjusted a bit out further, helped, while I await the new spring.
I don't know if the springs are the same for the 84M as the 84l, but I have 3 coming. One for myself, one already spoken for, and when they show up I can take measurements for you and see if it is the same as the 84l spring. If anyone else is interested.
I also ordered some Lapua brass last night, so will be using that instead going forward.
Out of the 15 I reloaded last night with different nickel cases instead of the hornady brass, only one did not fire. Maybe the fidling with taking apart the bolt, and I did leave the firing pin adjusted a bit out further, helped, while I await the new spring.
I don't know if the springs are the same for the 84M as the 84l, but I have 3 coming. One for myself, one already spoken for, and when they show up I can take measurements for you and see if it is the same as the 84l spring. If anyone else is interested.
I also ordered some Lapua brass last night, so will be using that instead going forward.
Interesting. Did you happen to check OAL on the shoulder for the cartridges that fired vs. not?
The other potential issue I can think of is not seating the primers completely, or differences in primer pocket depth.
If it doesn't work with CCI primers, it doesn't work
This has been my experience. Seat CCI's with enough crush and they are easy to ignite, imo softer than FederalsThe other potential issue I can think of is not seating the primers completely, or differences in primer pocket depth.
If it doesn't work with CCI primers, it doesn't work
I had a standing offer for over a decade, cases of CCI primers that I'd swap 2 for one for Federals. You know how many people took me up on that offer? Nobody. Even with the various shortages over the years, when you'd think that anything was better than nothing nobody wanted them. Probably didn't have powder anyway.
Even with the various shortages over the years, when you'd think that anything was better than nothing nobody wanted them. Probably didn't have powder anyway.
1. Verify an empty chamber and put on safe.
2. Move the safety to position #2.
3. Remove bolt. The firing pin is cocked and NOT protruding from the bolt.
4. Hold the bolt in your left hand (so you can see the 3 digit s/n looking up at you on the handle) and rotate the cocking piece with your right hand COUNTERCLOCKWISE. It will lock into the next position. Now push the safety into the "fire" position. The firing pin will snap forward and now the pin will be protruding from the bolt hole. You can measure it, photo it or make a mental pic of it. It should be barely protruding based on your earlier primer photos.
5. Now is when you can loosen the locking set screw with a 1/16th hexhead - just a couple of turns. Now, using a properly fitting slotted screwdriver you can turn the screw CLOCKWISE and watch the pin protrude further. I think 1/2-3/4 will do it. You can photo it or measure it although I don't know what you would use to measure it.
Re-tighten set screw.
6. Now you have to manually #### the firing pin. Hold the bolt again in the left hand and turn the cocking piece CLOCKWISE til it snaps into the small cutout on the rear of the bolt. It'll take a some force.
7. Put the bolt back in the action and check your function and safety positions.
8. The next range session or primed empties will check your work.
Firing pin should measure .055-.065 protrusion -
Found this info - RJ
2. Move the safety to position #2.
3. Remove bolt. The firing pin is cocked and NOT protruding from the bolt.
4. Hold the bolt in your left hand (so you can see the 3 digit s/n looking up at you on the handle) and rotate the cocking piece with your right hand COUNTERCLOCKWISE. It will lock into the next position. Now push the safety into the "fire" position. The firing pin will snap forward and now the pin will be protruding from the bolt hole. You can measure it, photo it or make a mental pic of it. It should be barely protruding based on your earlier primer photos.
5. Now is when you can loosen the locking set screw with a 1/16th hexhead - just a couple of turns. Now, using a properly fitting slotted screwdriver you can turn the screw CLOCKWISE and watch the pin protrude further. I think 1/2-3/4 will do it. You can photo it or measure it although I don't know what you would use to measure it.
Re-tighten set screw.
6. Now you have to manually #### the firing pin. Hold the bolt again in the left hand and turn the cocking piece CLOCKWISE til it snaps into the small cutout on the rear of the bolt. It'll take a some force.
7. Put the bolt back in the action and check your function and safety positions.
8. The next range session or primed empties will check your work.
Firing pin should measure .055-.065 protrusion -
Found this info - RJ
Interesting. Did you happen to check OAL on the shoulder for the cartridges that fired vs. not?
The other potential issue I can think of is not seating the primers completely, or differences in primer pocket depth.
If it doesn't work with CCI primers, it doesn't work
Yep, just right around the .002 difference I bumped them back.
The funny thing is the indent on the unfired primers is no different to the eye, than the fired ones. The indent is prominent on them.
Using the forster primer seater, so not touching the primers, and they are seated using approx the same pressure, and are not protruding, so seated "proper".
I have some factory rounds that are going to be practice shots for my son, and hopefully get out this weekend, and try those in the rifle. See if I have the problem come up with the factory rounds. Plus I could use a few more of the nickel cases.
RJ, I did adjust the pin out a little bit further than it was, maybe crank it out another 1/4 turn, for the next go round of practice. See if that helps a bit.
RJ, I did adjust the pin out a little bit further than it was, maybe crank it out another 1/4 turn, for the next go round of practice. See if that helps a bit.
Right on .055-.065 protruding - RJ
Right on .055-.065 protruding - RJ
There's a limit to how far the firing pin can be screwed out in a Kimber before the body of the firing pin bottoms out in the bolt body anyway. Set up properly up the pin will bottom out in the bolt-head, have the right protrusion and still have free-play between the cocking piece and cocking notch at the rear of the bolt when the striker drops.
Firing pin indentation is a little deceptive. A fired cartridge indentation is the combined result of the striker impact, and the chain reaction of 60,000 PSI blowing the primer partially out of the primer pocket and hitting the bolt-face and stopping the fireing pin just ahead of the main charge pressuring up and driving the casehead back and reseating the primer and flattening everything out in the approved fashion.
The mark on a misfire is the result of the pin hitting a tiny piece of brass and coasting to a stop.
The mark on a misfire is the result of the pin hitting a tiny piece of brass and coasting to a stop.
I had the same issue on a Kimber M84 Montana in 7mm-08 back in 2012. Took it to Mitch Kendall in Kamloops. He'd had another identical rifle (caliber and all) in the week before with a serial number within 10 of mine with the same misfire issue. Anyway Mitch put in a spring he cut to length from spring stock he had. Also checked firing pin protrusion which was fine as set, plus cleaned the firing pin assembly which wasn't dirty. I was out the door with a rifle that has never failed since...10 years later.
My rifle with the factory spring practically fell open with little effort when you were lifting the bolt (cocking it). With the new spring it cocked much harder....which is a good thing. My other two Montanas in .223 and .338 Fed have never had the issue and have the much firmer bolt lift too. Might see how hard yours is to open...I am betting quite easy since you get misfires.
Aggravating issue but easily fixed. Good luck!
My rifle with the factory spring practically fell open with little effort when you were lifting the bolt (cocking it). With the new spring it cocked much harder....which is a good thing. My other two Montanas in .223 and .338 Fed have never had the issue and have the much firmer bolt lift too. Might see how hard yours is to open...I am betting quite easy since you get misfires.
Aggravating issue but easily fixed. Good luck!
Well, another range trip today.
Only fired around 20 rounds, but with no hiccups.
After reading RJ's post on the pin protrusion when in the fired position, I figured I should measure it. Well it turns out that it was in and around the .040" area. Of course I didn't
write this down, as I was busy right away wanting to adjust it out. Sitting in the range that RJ suggested, and lo and behold, no issues at all.
This will get me by for now, and then it will get taken apart when the new spring comes in so I can measure the difference in the springs.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Only fired around 20 rounds, but with no hiccups.
After reading RJ's post on the pin protrusion when in the fired position, I figured I should measure it. Well it turns out that it was in and around the .040" area. Of course I didn't
write this down, as I was busy right away wanting to adjust it out. Sitting in the range that RJ suggested, and lo and behold, no issues at all.
This will get me by for now, and then it will get taken apart when the new spring comes in so I can measure the difference in the springs.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Right on Wallz - Glad its Working Well ! RJ
Well, the replacement springs came in the other day. 5 min job to replace it. The new spring is about 5/16" - 3/8" longer. Can't say if it is more robust, as I have no way to measure, and my hands are not that good to tell the difference while removing, and installing. The peace of mind I guess is worth it.
The Monday range trip, "with old spring", involved taking my ammo out to 550 yards to figure out and verify scope dope. Windy, blustery day, but it is sure nice to be able to hit that gong playing with the wind. No hiccups with any more no bang rounds. So with the new spring, and the firing pin set out further I should have no problems going forward.
Thanks for all the help on this one.
The Monday range trip, "with old spring", involved taking my ammo out to 550 yards to figure out and verify scope dope. Windy, blustery day, but it is sure nice to be able to hit that gong playing with the wind. No hiccups with any more no bang rounds. So with the new spring, and the firing pin set out further I should have no problems going forward.
Thanks for all the help on this one.
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