I am new to antiques, and while I have been reloading for precision rifle and modern handguns for over 30 years, I am a blackpowder and antique newbie - as in I know nothing other than what I have read on the net or seen on YouTube videos, i.e. - I think I saw a blackpowder revolver being fired once.
I am in the process of investing a bit of money in an antique Colt SAA and don't want it to grenade and become an expensive paperweight.
Of the many questions I have, and I have a lot, the most important one to me right now is how to safely work up BP loads in the hopefully soon new to me Colt SAA. It will likely be in 44 Spcl.
So here goes with the newbie questions:
1. When you get a new to you antique, and are working up loads, what percentage of a maximum safe era load should you start at? 50%, 60%, 75% etc...? Is there such a thing as too light a BP load that can be dangerous to the antique?
2. Would it be safer to start working up loads using a combination of heavier bullets and less powder, or use a combination of lighter bullets and more powder?
3. Does it make a difference what you use to fill empty case volume with in addition to wads / cards in light BP loads? I have read of people using cork, corn starch or cream of wheat (uncooked of course).
4. What would be the safest / slowest burning highest volume blackpowder to use in testing?
5. Would you stick to black powder or would you use a black powder equivalent for testing and working up loads?
6. Would you crimp when working up loads? (Not sure if that is even applicable in this revolver).
7. Are pressure signs in BP center fire cartridge cases the same as you would see in modern cartridges or are there other things to look out for? Aside from the obvious shrapnel if you $!@$ it up.
8. Are there any ways to tell when you have reached a safe maximum load (less than an original era recipe) for that particular antique if the shell casing and primer are not showing any signs of over pressure?
Any info or suggestions (other than "don't shoot it") are truly appreciated.
Marc
I am in the process of investing a bit of money in an antique Colt SAA and don't want it to grenade and become an expensive paperweight.
Of the many questions I have, and I have a lot, the most important one to me right now is how to safely work up BP loads in the hopefully soon new to me Colt SAA. It will likely be in 44 Spcl.
So here goes with the newbie questions:
1. When you get a new to you antique, and are working up loads, what percentage of a maximum safe era load should you start at? 50%, 60%, 75% etc...? Is there such a thing as too light a BP load that can be dangerous to the antique?
2. Would it be safer to start working up loads using a combination of heavier bullets and less powder, or use a combination of lighter bullets and more powder?
3. Does it make a difference what you use to fill empty case volume with in addition to wads / cards in light BP loads? I have read of people using cork, corn starch or cream of wheat (uncooked of course).
4. What would be the safest / slowest burning highest volume blackpowder to use in testing?
5. Would you stick to black powder or would you use a black powder equivalent for testing and working up loads?
6. Would you crimp when working up loads? (Not sure if that is even applicable in this revolver).
7. Are pressure signs in BP center fire cartridge cases the same as you would see in modern cartridges or are there other things to look out for? Aside from the obvious shrapnel if you $!@$ it up.
8. Are there any ways to tell when you have reached a safe maximum load (less than an original era recipe) for that particular antique if the shell casing and primer are not showing any signs of over pressure?
Any info or suggestions (other than "don't shoot it") are truly appreciated.
Marc
