Knurling op rod guide

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MartyK2500

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One of my norcs has a loose op rod guide.
I have seen the posts where it is dimpled with a punch and then fixed in red lock tite.
Knurling tools look cool and handy but seems cheaper to dimple with a punch.

What punch do you use and how hard can you bang without damaging barrel?
 
you don't need to smack it hard, just enough to tighten it up. too much and you will have a hard time getting the op rod guide on. you can always add if too loose. too hard can affect your barrel interior. Chinese steel. if the barrel is indexed properly, it will shoot better after dimpling. enjoy the journey.
 
Hard to tell index, installed a NM flash hider without front sight and c-clamped brass rod to it, c clamped brass rod to flat part of receiver heel, and eyeballin it, it looked perfect.
But i don't have any other measuring methods to see index. The pointy end of two barrel feedramps, is not exactly in line with op rod spring guide, if thats any reference.
I will go slow at it and test fit od rod guide in the process, once it's tight i'll stop and fill with either JB weld or red LT
 
I find the FH you are using makes a huge difference. If you are planning a FH swap in the near future, there is no point in indexing with what you have, or measuring to see if it's close!

Most US made FH are within 1-2 degrees. I have seen and under indexed barrel on a Nork that looked like it was 12 degrees over indexed..... Almost 20 degrees out on the FH keyways!

I use a FH that I have measured to ensure that its keyways are perfectly true when I index barrels. I use the badger ord Sight blocks and angle levels that indicate degrees to ensure proper indexing. This can bite ya in the butt if your FH is out.

I would ensure that the barrel is indexed "more or less" TDC before glueing the guide in place. A glued on guide will generally be destroyed when removal is undertaken later. 2 degrees is probably close enough, for the average shooter. I try to index as close to TDC as I possibly can. A 10th of a degree can make a difference IMHO.

John
 
This is my exact experience,i was mad at marstar at first for shipping me an overindexed barrel when i had asked an underindexed.
Installed my new flash hider, SA NM, which is the one the build is keeping, the barrel now appears perfectly indexed, eyeballin it.

I did not think of a scope levelling kit, was using clamps and rods for some odd reason.
Guess i'll get a good level kit, down the road i wanted to slap a vortex razor on the best build out of 4 rifles.
 
The rod method described will get you very close. I didn't bother shelling out the $$ for the angle finders and Badger ord blocks untill I decided to do this kind of work for others. The badger blocks come with slots and thumb screws for using rods as you describe. It works, and if you have a reasonabley calibrated MK1 eyeball, you should be able to get it pretty darn close. Within a degree or 2!

John
 
Good stuff thanks, this is only for myself and close friends around me, and trying to keep my M14 specific toolkit under 1000$, i'll stick to rods for now. Rods are perfect eyeballin them.
 
The human eye can detect very slight variance in 2 parallel planes with pretty good accuracy for "level". Notsorichguy, I've found JB weld to release from steel with a little heat from a blowtorch and a firm smack. I haven't removed an oprod guide but have taken apart other stuff that was prepped properly. A few seconds with the blowtorch and it comes off like bondo.
 
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