Kodiak Defence WK180C questions from a total newbie

[DavenK]

If I overtightened them, which I did with double what you suggested and now can't get them off (I didn't use loctite though thank goodness), do you know if the rifle is still safe to use? If so I may shoot it for a bit and hope that the handguard screws all loosen on their own over time. Last time I used an allen key and applied a lot of torque to it but it still came loose with use. This time I used the FAT wrench set to 60in/lb and now I can't loosen them at all without stripping them.

The rifle is still safe to shoot, no problem there.

If I may suggest one more thing: do not unscrew/break torque with a FAT wrench (or any torque wrench).
Torque wrenches are calibrated tools and breaking torque with those will mess with their calibration.

 

[Jmcc]

Best upgrade for the gen 1 is to upgrade to the TNA steel upper + bolt. You'll never have to worry about receiver wear again, and the magnetic charging handle (which actually fits tightly/properly, unlike the POS that came with early gen 1s) will never break. And it keeps takedown tool-less. Recoupe some of your money by selling the original upper, or keep it and build a grendel upper for deer.
As for spare parts, firing pin, extractor, small pins for the bolt. A spare piston wouldn't be a bad idea.

I was just on the TNA site. I saw some pretty expensive complete parts

Im looking for a less expensive way to get a bunch of the most common replacement parts. Does anyone sell a pre made kit? like $150 and here a box of everything you "should" need for the next 1,000 rds

 

[Ustauk]

An option would be to get a mid length piston and barrel from Third Echelon, to moderate the recoil impulse; you can get a spare piston rod at the same time, but I haven't heard any of their pistons snapping. Note Crusader Arms moved to a mid-length piston on their Sentinel 5.56, though their piston is also thicker.

SBI working in their DI BCG, which will eliminate the piston and replace it with a gas tube.

 

[ColinD]

Do the gen 1 uppers have users choice of which side to put the charging handle? I like right side charge, and would like to cover the left side slot. Does anyone make a cover?

Also interested in the gen 1 steel uppers. Are they no longer offered?

 

[T.Jon]

Thank you

 

[T.Jon]

Swap the Piston bushing out for an upgraded brass one before you even fire it. Loctite the gas block screws and charging handle to prevent them from coming loose.

Parts I would have on hand are
- Piston Rod
- Firing pin
- Bolt

With the brass bushing and the gas block loctited you shouldnt have piston breakages but it is always good to have an extra on hand considering they're around $25. Bolt and Firing pin are also a good thing to keep around for any semi auto modern sporting rifle.

Thank you

 

[Excellent Tiger]

What material is the wk180c gen 1 charging handle? Wondering if it's worthwhile to pick up a 12.9 steel handle to deter breakages

 

[HvacFridge Apprentice]

Just curious, regarding compatibility for the gen2, from TNA the piston rod + extractor + firing pin + brass bushing: these are good to go in a gen 2 eh?
Also…gen2 spare parts kits, is it a mix of standard ar parts kits mixed with some proprietary bits? Example, bolt carrier, bolt, firing pin.

Trying to buy a “complete” kit seems to be a more of a mixed bag of ar stuff and specific wk gen1 and gen2 parts.

 

[thegazelle]

The rifle is still safe to shoot, no problem there.

If I may suggest one more thing: do not unscrew/break torque with a FAT wrench (or any torque wrench).
Torque wrenches are calibrated tools and breaking torque with those will mess with their calibration.

Thanks for this very good advice. I was not aware of this. Given that I have used it in this fashion already to try to loosen, should I just assume the calibration is off and I get another FAT wrench?

I managed to get the handguard screws off but hammering a larger torx bit into the existing screws and then removed them. Contacted Kodiak and they have a replacement set of screws in the mail out to me already not even 24 hours later. This gives me confidence if and when my charging handle or piston rod breaks, though with the piston rod that is unlikely now due to the gas block screws being secured very tightly.

Looks like from all signs that the handguard screws should be 30 inch/pounds. max.

Charging handle, no idea - keeps coming loose no matter how much I torque it. I am trying to decide between the Spectre charging handle and the TNW one as a replacement - I don't want to just keep tightening the original one and have it snap off just because I am a cheapskate, and then I'll have bigger problems.

 

[DavenK]

Thanks for this very good advice. I was not aware of this. Given that I have used it in this fashion already to try to loosen, should I just assume the calibration is off and I get another FAT wrench?

I managed to get the handguard screws off but hammering a larger torx bit into the existing screws and then removed them. Contacted Kodiak and they have a replacement set of screws in the mail out to me already not even 24 hours later. This gives me confidence if and when my charging handle or piston rod breaks, though with the piston rod that is unlikely now due to the gas block screws being secured very tightly.

Looks like from all signs that the handguard screws should be 30 inch/pounds. max.

Charging handle, no idea - keeps coming loose no matter how much I torque it. I am trying to decide between the Spectre charging handle and the TNW one as a replacement - I don't want to just keep tightening the original one and have it snap off just because I am a cheapskate, and then I'll have bigger problems.

Whilst it is hard to judge if your fat wrench may be off or not, maybe you could simply compare it ?

Torque a fastener to X torque, mark it and redo the process with a different torque wrench ?

I dealt with Kodiak a handful of times so far and Owen has been nothing but excellence.
IIRC they suggest 30 in/lb + blue loctite for their gen 3 CH.

I have tried a few different CH flavours and went back to the Kodiak one because of the gen 3 « rib » on it.


When my build is complete I’ll release some more info
I did a lot of R&D, testing, fitting… probably spent more than I should have, but it was fun. I have machine capabilities and an enormous pool of knowledge to help me brainstorm and finish this project. Special thanks to Owen from Kodiak for providing some parts for the R&D.

 

[thegazelle]

Whilst it is hard to judge if your fat wrench may be off or not, maybe you could simply compare it ?

Torque a fastener to X torque, mark it and redo the process with a different torque wrench ?

I dealt with Kodiak a handful of times so far and Owen has been nothing but excellence.
IIRC they suggest 30 in/lb + blue loctite for their gen 3 CH.

I have tried a few different CH flavours and went back to the Kodiak one because of the gen 3 « rib » on it.


When my build is complete I’ll release some more info
I did a lot of R&D, testing, fitting… probably spent more than I should have, but it was fun. I have machine capabilities and an enormous pool of knowledge to help me brainstorm and finish this project. Special thanks to Owen from Kodiak for providing some parts for the R&D.

My CH is, unfortunately the "G2" one that is threaded but doesn't have any torque shape and the only way to tighten is through those two holes (I put an allen key in there and crank it to death, but it still comes loose). I will presume that Kodiak will not just preemptively send a newer replacement if the current one has not broken (yet)

 

[Unholysavage]

I was just on the TNA site. I saw some pretty expensive complete parts

Im looking for a less expensive way to get a bunch of the most common replacement parts. Does anyone sell a pre made kit? like $150 and here a box of everything you "should" need for the next 1,000 rds

The TNA WK180 field maintenance kit would be ideal, as it has all the parts that commonly fail, but it's nearly $300 and currently out of stock.

I'd personally piece together a kit of the bare essentials, it wouldn't be that expensive.

If TNA every brings their adjustable gas block back, that would be a good upgrade. Dial the gas back until it still reliably ejects, and it would reduce wear and tear.