So i bought one of these and took it out shooting, 7 out of 10 were light strikes. Using CCI velocitor and stinger as thats what i use to break in my .22lrs usually. Read online that the quality control is all over and the one issue is the firing pin is rounded a bit more on some. Would it be difficult to "sharpen" up the firing pin by myself as it looks super easy to break down? Thoughts?
Kral Arms KR22 Tactical question
- Thread starter dangrewal
- Start date
I had mine at the range in August and also had a light strike issues as well but not as severe, maybe 4 out of 10 FTF using Federal Automatch and S&B Canadian match for comparison. The Federal was a little better but not much.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "sharpen" but I did some research on pin profiling and decided to remove the part of the pin face where it contacts the "folded" brass at the very edge of the bottom of the casing. I measured the depth of the bolt face recess at 1mm and pin protrusion at .8mm (.031") so no need to mess with that right now.
Original pin face;
Profiled pin (nothing removed from the face area where it still contacts the casing). I used my dremel clamped to a table and some 800 grit to remove sharp edges. Remember once you remove material you can't put it back.
I used some fired casings to do some dry fires, you can see the original strike at 1 o'clock and the modified pin strike at 3 'o'clock
I won't get to the range for a couple of weeks, so I will update with my results after then.
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "sharpen" but I did some research on pin profiling and decided to remove the part of the pin face where it contacts the "folded" brass at the very edge of the bottom of the casing. I measured the depth of the bolt face recess at 1mm and pin protrusion at .8mm (.031") so no need to mess with that right now.
Original pin face;
Profiled pin (nothing removed from the face area where it still contacts the casing). I used my dremel clamped to a table and some 800 grit to remove sharp edges. Remember once you remove material you can't put it back.
I used some fired casings to do some dry fires, you can see the original strike at 1 o'clock and the modified pin strike at 3 'o'clock
I won't get to the range for a couple of weeks, so I will update with my results after then.
Last edited:
