Krinker Plinker: Modify for non-restricted ?

dumbguy

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Well, now that I've received my 8" Krinker Plinker kit, I realize that I'm not quite sure how I am going to fix the folding stock open to meet the >26" requirement for non-restricted. (I now kinda wish I had waited for a factory-welded version to be imported.)

Krinker_8inch.jpg


I thought maybe I could disassemble the folding mechanism and drive a screw in there somewhere to keep the stock fixed open, but the spring mechanism doesn't really seem to be too easy to disassemble... and it's pretty hard to access in there without disassembling.

I don't really want to rely on epoxy/glue/etc to keep me out of jail.

Now I'm thinking maybe a weld along here would might be the best way...
weld_stock.jpg


I found a guy with a "stick welder"; do you think this would be an appropriate tool to use?

As for the muzzle brake (which I think also needs to be permanently affixed to reach 26" overall): Not sure if it is practical/possible to weld this, there isn't really any space between the sights and the brake to get a welder into...
muzzle_brake.jpg


... though I'm a little more comfortable using Loctite etc on the brake, because I think a good strong adhesive on the threads might be reasonably permanent...

-- Dumbguy
 
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i wouldn't use a stick welder on that. its really thin and even if your "guy with a stick welder" could weld it without blowing a big hole, it would look like garbage. put some jb weld on your barrel threads and screw your flash hider on. then, fold your stock, rough up the surface in the little recess and on the stock arm as well. put some jb weld in there and close the stock. wipe up any excess and your good to go.
 
Hmmm... interesting comment on the stick welder.

JB Weld in the recess... you mean here?
folder_open.jpg


You think JB Weld would be strong enough to hold this stock open?

-- Dumbguy
 
Don't even go near that with an arc welder. If it had to be welded, a mig or tig would be the way to go. Use the JB instead.
 
papajohn said:
JB Weld or lock tight even.... DON'T Weld it for the love of God....JB or Lock tight and it's legal..

It still baffles me how stupid that law is everytime I hear conversations such as this.. I hate gun control so much it hurts!
 
For someone who knows how to weld, using a stick welder can be just as clean as a mig welder. Will never be as clean as a tig welder though. I just drilled and tapped the pin that opens the folder. To remove the folder pin just pull out the pin blocking the spring and your done.
 
It sounds like the jb weld would be the easiest way to go. However, I'll give my 2 cents on the welding. I've welded lots of really thin sheetmetal with a stick welder. It is tricky and definitely not ideal. It can be done but a mig or tig is a lot easier to control.
If I was to weld it, I would use a mig and just put one or two spot welds. You don't need a solid bead. One spot weld will hold it plenty strong. You won't be able to break it free by hand; plus it could be easily ground off at a later time if you wanted to go to restricted.
dh
 
i am by no means a 'welder' but i weld, mig stick and tig, don't even think of using a stick welder it will blast through it and will look like crap.... a mig with the right wire would do it but again one would have to know what they are doing....
jb will do the nicest job, apply smooth it with a finger or something like a popsicle stick and call it a day!
 
Any guy with a mig welder could do this for you. If it was mine, I would tack it in a few places and call it done. If you wanted to change it later, just break the tacks with a rubber hammer and grind it flat again.
 
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