lakefield 64b stripped receiver barrel threads

blinklit

blinklit

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so i took my 64b apart for a cleaning and the threads on the receiver that hold the barrel in place came out with the screw.
the only solution i can come up with would be to fill the hole with weld and re-tap 5/16-32 thread??
could part it out or tack everything in place but that would make it quite hard to clean thoroughly.:d

not really worth putting a lot of money into it as they can be had new for around $150.
however i would bet the quality of the new ones is far less than this one ser.####528.

any ideas????
 
If you really want to fix it at low cost maybe JB Weld would work. You are supposed to be able to drill and tap it plus you aren't applying any heat. If it didn't work you haven't got much to loose. Just remove it and try a different repair method.
 
The threads came out with the screw? Was it repaired before? I have seen the barrel retaining clip get deformed from over torquing while barrel was out. Sure doesn't sound fun.

You could try to add material (weld), and re-tap. Retap current hole with larger diameter, and find screws n' studs to fit. You might also Drill n' Tap the barrel (4 threads? That's not real deep) where the takedown stud touches it, and replace with a longer takedown.
 
Sometimes you can put a coil of single strand copper wire in the hole and it deforms to catch what's left of the thread. Poor mans Helicoil.
 
id say that is a tough one, since the barrel is precise fit into the reciever on the other side, welding might deform it a bit and ruin the reciever where it might need a machinist. Either way id think it might be too far to save for the cost wise when they are only $130. Buy another and use it for parts and be carefull, it doesnt take much to overtorque that nut and the threads come out the next time you take it apart.
 
thanks for the replies,yea it's for sure a tough job.
i'll call around and see if i can find a taper tap at a reasonable cost to attempt a repair with filling the hole carefully with the welder???
 
Just don't use an arc welder... If you can, mig it at low heat and don't quench it. After it's welded let it cool down on its own so as not to deform it much.
 
mikeystew said:
Just don't use an arc welder... If you can, mig it at low heat and don't quench it. After it's welded let it cool down on its own so as not to deform it much.
Click to expand...

thanks for the tip.will definitely use a mig with lots of trigger work.
called the local shop on a tap...40 bills....will keep shopping.lol
 
blinklit said:
thanks for the replies,yea it's for sure a tough job.
i'll call around and see if i can find a taper tap at a reasonable cost to attempt a repair with filling the hole carefully with the welder???
Click to expand...

If you could find a nut with proper threads, you could tack that over the stripped hole. Once in place, grind until barrel retaining clip fits over it.
 
I have made new threads with Acraglass (sp?) bedding compound. The stuff works great.....harder than hell when it sets.
Just be sure to coat the screw with the release compound, mix up some of the goop, coat the screw...press it in the hole, let it dry 2 days.
Unscrew with screwdriver or wrench. Fixed.... Total cost, about $20 bucks.
 
camster said:
If you could find a nut with proper threads, you could tack that over the stripped hole. Once in place, grind until barrel retaining clip fits over it.
Click to expand...

will try and find a 5/16-32 nut......might also be a hard find????...but awesome idea!!!

the bedding compound might be my answer if i can't locate something to weld in place.......i've tried jb weld on a few occasions and it always seems to fail in the end.......but i was asking it to bond a rail to a receiver on a .22 semi.......6 shots and off she came.lol
 
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I had a Lakefield/Mossberg 64b several years back, and it had that threaded portion attached to the barrel by a dovetail. (wonderfull design it was)
Didnt take long to have it get pulled out.
Clamped it in place, then two quick spot welds on either side with a 5/32" E6011 rod with welder set at 75amps held it
in place after that with no issues.
Sold it to a neighbour and he still has it still holds.
Strike and warm up the rod first on a scrap piece of steel just before.
If you have little experience with small fast jobs then i sugest letting someone that does do it.
That is a simple fast fix on a $150 gun.
Two quick spot welds will not over heat barrel.
For me i would remove old nut and spot a new one in place of it.
Get an automotive quality nut and not a general purpose one or you with strip it out faster than first one.
 
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