Lapua brass. Prep???
- Thread starter Brianma65
- Start date
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Nope, don't have to, unless you're using some crazy custom chamber, for which you have custom dies, that's tighter than normal SAAMI specs.
I've loaded virgin lapua brass straight away, but the necks were pretty stiff on some, so accuracy will suffer. That's the downside of not resizing.
The downside of resizing them is that it's one more hardening cycle, so you'll have to anneal sooner.....
I run the flashhole deburr tool through all mine too. I know lapua brass likely doesn't need that, but i still do it. I brush, deburr, and chamfur the necks too.
Im not being a ####, but you know about the different primer pocket and flashhole sizes on the 6.5x47???
GGG
Most of it is usually fine as is, maybe a little tight on neck tension but I always do to to make sure all the necks are the same and none out of round. Though I have no choice since I neck turn everything before reloading it now anyway.
- Location
- Nova Scotia
I size them simply because they travel far and get banged around a lot during transport so it makes me feel better to know that all the little dents and dings are taken out but i only neck size them. jerry and Mystic or Peter at Hirsch will have neck turners.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Can someone recommend a half descent neck turning tool? User friendly
Jerry has K&M, and extreme on Winnipeg has 21st century. Both very user friendly. You'll need a neck expanded die then too. Will likely set you back about 500$ for a setup.
I think the flashholes are called PPC, right?? I don't know if theyre more accurate or not. I do know my 6.5 is very accurate, and I have left the flashholes as spec.
GGG
- Location
- Jameson, SK
Did you order full length, or neck only, or both?? That'll tell you.
It kind of depends on your die. If your die has an expander ball and you plan to use it, then yes, you should run the expander ball down through the neck. I would not run the case up into the neck sizing part of the die though. I see you plan to use Forster dies. They are very good. However there is an added complication if you have the standard neck sizing die or FL sizing die. Forster locates the expander ball very high in the die so the case starts over the expander before it has fully left the neck on the withdrawal part of the cycle. So if you want to just expand the neck without sizing it down first, you will have to temporarily adjust the ball lower in the die to do it. The only reason not to put the brass through the neck sizing down part is to avoid another brass working cycle.
If you have a bushing die and no expander ball, it is a bit different. Forster's bushing die does not ship with an expander ball, but you can add it. A bushing die without an expander ball will only reduce the neck diameter. You can run the brass through it, but it probably won't do anything, as new brass is usually produced to minimum spec.
I see you asked about neck turning. I have heard good things about the K&M stuff, and I believe Jerry can get it for you. However, unless you have a tight neck chamber, I suggest you think about whether you want to neck turn or not. It will increase neck clearance. Lapua brass is very consistent, and what you will gain in making the neck thickness more uniform may be less than what you lose with the additional clearance. What is more popular now with custom chambers, is a no turn neck which is smaller than SAAMI and sized to the particular brand/lot of brass that you have.
Oh, on flash holes, I don't mess with them when it is Lapua brass. More chance you will make things worse, instead of better. If it has the smaller flash hole you need a special reamer too. Not worth it...
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- Location
- Jameson, SK
Hahahah - fair enough. At least your honest!!! All this sh!t is overwhelming....that's still fresh in my mind!!!
Here is what Forster offers. Looks like it could be the standard FL die, or a Bushing Bump Neck Die.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
You'll have to FL resize it every few loadings, I think.
I FL resize all the time, so I don't have these issues.....
BTW - FL vs. neck sizing is one of the ongoing debates that you'll have to pick a side on......
That, along with weighing brass, measuring the volume of brass, annealing a little or a lot, using a balance scale or a digital, neck turning for a non-custom/factory chamber, tipping your bullets, using moly or not, number of grooves, progressive twist rates, button or cut rifling, and what the 11th spice is in the Colonel's chicken......
GGG
ps - if you don't weigh, don't measure, anneal every 3-5 times, use a digital scale, turn necks for factory chambers, don't tip your bullets (yet), don't use moly, use whatever the F number of grooves the gun is sent to you with, don't actually understand progressive twist rates, don't understand cut vs. buttoned, and think is oregano, then you're welcome at my place for a beer anytime. The rest are just wrong and I refuse to associate with them because of it!!!!!
I thought , once you neck size for a particular rifle, you don't have to FL size again. Just bump the shoulder back. As for barrel twist or button, mmmm , I forgot what it is,it's a 20 inch Hardy CFW ,that's all I got on that.
- Location
- Jameson, SK
I thought , once you neck size for a particular rifle, you don't have to FL size again. Just bump the shoulder back. As for barrel twist or button, mmmm , I forgot what it is,it's a 20 inch Hardy CFW ,that's all I got on that.
I think you're right, it's the shoulder bump that you need to do periodically. FL, bump, neck, tight base, expander, decapping, TiNi,.....aaahhhhh !!!! so many f-ing dies!!!!
