Lapua brass. Prep???

Just watched a vid on fire forming ,using cream of wheat,pistol powder and toilet paper.
I have tite group and CFE pistol,on hand. Would either of those work?
Anything I should be aware of? So I don't blow anything up or off:)

Brianma65

1. Do you have a neck thickness gauge?
2. Do you have a runout gauge?
3. What tools do you have to make precision ammunition.
4. I would practice neck turning on some range brass first, before messing up costly Lapua brass.

Read below and what Kevin Thomas of Team Lapua USA has to say about neck vs full length resizing. Pay attention to post #6 by Kevin Thomas.
http://forum.snipershide.info/showthread.php?t=152715

I belong to the rat t u r d in the violin case fraternity


6.5×47 Lapua Cartridge Guide
http://www.accurateshooter.com/featured/65x47/
 
Brianma65

1. Do you have a neck thickness gauge?
2. Do you have a runout gauge?
3. What tools do you have to make precision ammunition.
4. I would practice neck turning on some range brass first, before messing up costly Lapua brass.

Read below and what Kevin Thomas of Team Lapua USA has to say about neck vs full length resizing. Pay attention to post #6 by Kevin Thomas.
http://forum.snipershide.info/showthread.php?t=152715

I belong to the rat t u r d in the violin case fraternity


6.5×47 Lapua Cartridge Guide
http://www.accurateshooter.com/featured/65x47/

So far this is what I got.
6.5x47 Lapua ,being built.
100 Lapua brass(in the mail).
Bullits ( in the mail)
Magneto speed chrony (in the mail).
Forester dies ( in the mail)
I'm trying to gather all the items I need ,to make the best bullits,I can.
With tools that are fast and user friendly.

My reloading experience is limited. 3 years doing rifle and pistol.

I'd like to have everything in place ,before the rifle gets here.


I've read both articles before, I'm not against FL only.

And I'm just getting excited by all the tous
 
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So far this is what I got.
6.5x47 Lapua ,being built.
100 Lapua brass(in the mail).
Bullits ( in the mail)
Magneto speed chrony (in the mail).
Forester dies ( in the mail)
I'm trying to gather all the items I need ,to make the best bullits,I can.
With tools that are fast and user friendly.

My reloading experience is limited. 3 years doing rifle and pistol.

I'd like to have everything in place ,before the rifle gets here.


I've read both articles before, I'm not against FL only.

Sinclair makes the "best value" neck thickness gauge. Your can order from US, or I think Grouse carries them. The Mitotoyu's are $$$$..... I bought my runout gauge from the US, can't remember from where.

You have an ogive adapter for your calipers so you can measure CBTO instead of COAL?? About 12$. How about the OAL gauge with a fake 6.5x47 cartridge so you can know what length gets you to the lands?? Is your rifle a single shot, or a magazine?? If so, do you plan on using the mag?? I don't. I don't even know if my loads will fit in it.

Good suggestion on the practicing on range brass.

My 6.5's best is 0.117MOA, FL only........

GGG
 
I got a new Frankfurt Arsenault case prep center,but I haven't opened the box yet. I don't think it has a flash hole deburrer though.

I would not bother trying to de-burr Lapua brass.

Winchester and the other lesser makes punch the flash hole. This leaves a tulip shaped burr inside the case. The way I de-burr is to clamp my electric drill in a vice and spin a 1/8" drill. I insert the case over this drill and touch the flash hole. IOt will chatter as it cuts off the burr, and then run smooth as it leaves a little champfer around the hole.

I can do hundreds of cases quite quickly with this set up. Only have to do it once.
 
Just watched a vid on fire forming ,using cream of wheat,pistol powder and toilet paper.
I have tite group and CFE pistol,on hand. Would either of those work?
Anything I should be aware of? So I don't blow anything up or off:)

I've not ever fire formed. Just shoot 'em and get some trigger time in. That's JMHO though. I'd fire form if you were making brass for one caliber from another..... (like .338 fed from .308).

GGG.
 
You may not see much accuracy improvement after fireforming new brass but the idea for some of us is that it will save the web from stretching too much on that first firing, providing you take measures to prevent forward movement of the cartridge when hit by the firing pin.

Example: 6.5-284 Lapua brass when new averages around .012" shorter cartridge headspace than it measures post-firing in my .284. After resizing new stuff to .284, I charge with powder (not max but not mild) and seat the bullet for a heavy jam in my rifle. That Lapua brass is on its 10th cycle with no concerning signs of web thinning. I like to think my prep had something to do with that.

Bigedp51, post your fancy brass stretching video thingy!

Rooster
 
So far this is what I got.
6.5x47 Lapua ,being built...

Do you have the drawing for the reamer that will be used to chamber the barrel? That will give you a big clue as to whether or not you need to consider neck turning of the cases. If it is a tight neck, you will have to turn for sure.
 
Do you have the drawing for the reamer that will be used to chamber the barrel? That will give you a big clue as to whether or not you need to consider neck turning of the cases. If it is a tight neck, you will have to turn for sure.

No, but I can ask the smith.
 
You may not see much accuracy improvement after fireforming new brass but the idea for some of us is that it will save the web from stretching too much on that first firing, providing you take measures to prevent forward movement of the cartridge when hit by the firing pin.

Another alternative to the COW method is to load your first firing rounds with the bullet jammed about 0.010" into the lands. Also you can get a bit more neck tension if you use one of the smaller bushings in the bushing die, although as is the new brass is likely to be tight in the neck. It is not a bad idea to do the initial load development with a jam. The pressure will be a bit higher, so later when you want to try a few different jump seating distances, you don't have to worry about going over pressure.
 
No, but I can ask the smith.

Here is the CIP Drawing to compare to the reamer. Check the H1 and H2 dimensions under the Chamber Mini column. The Cartridge Maxi gives the max for factory ammo, same locations, H1 and H2.

Once you get your bullets and brass you will want to load a few dummy rounds. I believe a micrometer that measures to the 10th of a thou is essential, as is a 6" vernier gauge. A thickness micrometer is a nice to have, but certainly not essential. Measure the OD of the neck with the bullets in place. Subtract the bullet diameter (no they are not always the .264" dia. exactly), then divide by two. That is your nominal brass thickness. Probably around 0.013" or so. In any case that loaded round diameter is what you want to compare to the neck size of the reamer used to cut the chamber.
 
Here is the CIP Drawing to compare to the reamer. Check the H1 and H2 dimensions under the Chamber Mini column. The Cartridge Maxi gives the max for factory ammo, same locations, H1 and H2.

Once you get your bullets and brass you will want to load a few dummy rounds. I believe a micrometer that measures to the 10th of a thou is essential, as is a 6" vernier gauge. A thickness micrometer is a nice to have, but certainly not essential. Measure the OD of the neck with the bullets in place. Subtract the bullet diameter (no they are not always the .264" dia. exactly), then divide by two. That is your nominal brass thickness. Probably around 0.013" or so. In any case that loaded round diameter is what you want to compare to the neck size of the reamer used to cut the chamber.

Wow, that's a lot to digest. I'll give it a shot though.

OK ,got it. That's not to bad:)
 
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So far this is what I got.
6.5x47 Lapua ,being built.
100 Lapua brass(in the mail).
Bullits ( in the mail)
Magneto speed chrony (in the mail).
Forester dies ( in the mail)
I'm trying to gather all the items I need ,to make the best bullits,I can.
With tools that are fast and user friendly.

My reloading experience is limited. 3 years doing rifle and pistol.

I'd like to have everything in place ,before the rifle gets here.


I've read both articles before, I'm not against FL only.

And I'm just getting excited by all the tous

KISS = Keep it simple stupid

Just do what Mystic Precision tells you and forget what us poor folk told you to do with our off the shelf factory rifles.

My wife would shoot me if I spent that much at one time on a rifle and equipment. (and I hate you for it) :evil:

You will have to decide on your own what size fecal debris to put in your violin case.

Now the good news, my wife is getting me a new Forster full length .243 die and two bags of Winchester brass for Xmas.

Did I tell you I hate you.

Signed
Crying bigedp51.

P.S. Read the link below and eat your heart out with your Forster bushing bump die. :nest:

Case Sizing 1: Sizing Die Selection
http://www.mssblog.com/2016/02/02/case-sizing-1-sizing-die-selection/
 
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Now, question for those that know:

Neck turning can be for two reasons, correct?? 1. To get your round to fit in a tightly necked chambering, but also 2. to maximize the consistently of the neck tension of the bullet release??

So even with a "loose"/"no turn" chambering, you'd still benefit from the more consistent neck tension, no??

GGG
 
KISS = Keep it simple stupid

Just do what Mystic Precision tells you and forget what us poor folk told you to do with our off the shelf factory rifles.

My wife would shoot me if I spent that much at one time on a rifle and equipment. (and I hate you for it) :evil:

You will have to decide on your own what size fecal debris to put in your violin case.

Now the good news, my wife is getting me a new Forster full length .243 die and two bags of Winchester brass for Xmas.

Did I tell you I hate you.

Signed
Crying bigedp51.
I like Jerry,s advice, and I can understand it.lol
I had to sell a few guns and stuff, to finance this project + some extra work :)
I still need a good optic yet:(
 
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