Large Photos! Remington 700 SPS-V Bedding Job

Styled

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Finely got around to bedding this bad boy using "Steel Bed".

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Used some "Play dough" to fill in all area's I didn't want the bedding getting into, and electric tape for area's such as around the recoil lug, and stock. I used some long bolts with the same thread, and cut off heads as guides to line up the stock with the receiver. I put on a few coats of the release agent every where I thought the bedding might sneak to, and a few other places just to be safe.

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Then I spread around the Steel bed on both the stock, and receiver (avoid air bubbles) with pop cycle sticks.

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Then the two were "mated". ;)

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After waiting the appropriate amount of time (a nights sleep), I separated the two with no problems.

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Thought the results were pretty good, the barrel is free floated. Now for another range test.

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Styled :50cal:
 
what are peoples thoughts on bedding the barrel (ie infront of the recoil lug) it appears you bedded about 1" ? I thought only the action was supposed to be bedded and the entire barrel should be free floating.
 
Great pics Styled. Thanks for the work and may all your shots go into the same hole.

what are peoples thoughts on bedding the barrel (ie infront of the recoil lug) it appears you bedded about 1" ? I thought only the action was supposed to be bedded and the entire barrel should be free floating.

I believe this is standard procedure. Some bed to the recoil lug and some bed the first inch or so beyond the recoil lug.
 
My 500 A-square is bedded stem to stern. Entire barrel, entire action, all three lugs, tang and bottom metal.

Floating barrels are of dubious value for a hunting gun. On a bench rest rig, they're shown to improve accuracy considerable. With a sporter weight barrel they gain you little, if anything. Actually, there is some evidence that for thin barrels, a small contact patch near the end of the forearm actually improves accuracy over fully floated.
Whether bedded, floated or floated with a contact point, you want to avoid a poorly bedded barrel at all costs as that's the least consistent (read accurate) way to go. Most owners and manufacturers find it easier to float it than bed it.
 
Bedding only up to and including the recoil lug seems to be standard practice. A while ago I was reading an article about bedding that recommended bedding the first 2 inches or so of the barrel if the rifle has a heavy (target/varmint) barrel. Their logic was that the weight of the heavy barrel has a bending effect on the receiver so bedding under the chamber elminates this bending force since the weight of the barrel is no longer hanging on the receiver ring.
 
I choose to free float between the rear tang/bolt to the front of the magazine well. I don't see a need to over complicate things by bedding in between, and up the sides. Who knows if she doesn't group well maybe I'll bed the entire receiver, and barrel. ;)

For a hunting rifle (Re: Thin barrel) I don't bed in front of the recoil lug, on a heavy barrel I've always been told to bed the first 1" - 2". (For the reasons 762shooter pointed out.)

I hand load because I want the most accuracy out of my firearms, and I bed them for the same reason. (Hunting rifles, or target)

I still have an old .22 WLR cooey single shot that I getto free floated when I was a teenager with electrical tape around the barrel.

I'll keep you posted with the before, and after. If I can brave the cold again.:sniper:

Styled
 
Did my exact same rifle this week. Was going to post pics but yours put mine to shame :/ nice job!

Oya, what did you use for release agent? I like the stuff that comes in the Brownell's kits, rather than shoe polish or floor polish but I can't seem to find it in hardware etc stores as a separate item, and when I describe and ask for it they look at me like I'm from Mars.
 
I used the release agent that came with the kit. A little more expensive to go with the "Steel bed" kit, but it has every thing included with the exception of Play Dough (clay), tape, and long bolts.

The bolts cost me $1.00 BTW.

Styled
 
what are peoples thoughts on bedding the barrel (ie infront of the recoil lug) it appears you bedded about 1" ? I thought only the action was supposed to be bedded and the entire barrel should be free floating.

I usually free float the barrel and reseal the wood,then I epoxy bed behind the recoil lug only and about an inch in front of it in the barrel channel under the chamber. This dampens the barrel vibration and groups are excellent.My 300 Win mag BDL and 7x57 Mountain Rifle shoot under an inch with this method.
Pillar bedding and other methods work, but my way works fast and gives great results for me without a lot of mess.
 
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