Lathe & Mill ?

John303

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I'm contemplating purchasing a small lathe & mill / a combination, for - well I just would like to have.
I've looked at the ones in Princess Auto & Busy Bee but I'm a novice to be sure.
PA is going to have a sale on theirs and I'm tempted (799 down to 600 I believe).
Comments, Suggestions, other Options from members that are more familiar with such equipment would be appreciated.
The machines would be used mostly for small gun related items. --- John
 
I would consider it essential to be able to cut threads with your lathe. There will probably be a number of times when you need to make a small specialized screw for the job you are working on. I am not convinced that all small lathes include threading capability. I find when working on obsolete guns at least, that the thread pitches or the thread diameter is non standard and cannot be cut with a die

cheers mooncoon
 
any lathe/mill combo will make parts if you know the basics of accurate work. on these machines you need to go slow, and use sharp tools. Stay away from carbide inserts.
 
I would like to be able to a least cut barrel threads. I had a bit of experience in the past but not much and time taken to make something is not critical - retired.
My other thought is perhaps a "larger lathe" & the mill later. I rather buy something and not regret, than need to up-grade. Thank your inputs. --- John
 
John, I've been doing metal working for around 45 years now partly as a paying job and mostly as a hobby. I've yet to see any of the 3in1 combination machines that is worth their weight in scrap steel value. They've all got serious flaws.

For example you want to be able to cut barrel threads. This means you need to pass the barrel through the headstock and secure it or hold it between centers. The first option requires a large enough hole in the main shaft. The second requires a long enough bed. There isn't a machine made that is under at LEAST $1500 that will let you do such a thing with a larger bull style rifle barrel. Skinny hunting barrels will fit some but you'd need to check. These machines often only have a 1 inch bore in the main shaft.

The 3in1 combo machines also typically have other issues. Many have a limited range of thread cutting options. Some of the smaller and cheaper ones don't even have the ability to cut threads. And a $600 machine is likely one of those.

KMS sells a 10x22 lathe which is pretty much the minimum you can use for a full range of hobby gunsmithing. And even that one will get in trouble if you're trying to work on some of the longer gun parts. But it'll work for 90% of the work you'd ever do in gunsmithing where that $800 down to $600 piece will only be suitable for smaller parts. These small combo machines are really at their best when used by hobbyists making table top steam engines and the like. They simply aren't large enough for gunsmithing.

Also the milling attachment is often a joke. The column isn't long enough or stiff enough to use with the work holding devices needed for many milling jobs. For example how are you going to hold an indexing head or a rotary table and still have room for the cutter? They just don't go high enough. ESPECIALLY on a smaller $600 machine.

So save your money up until you can get into the bigger but still just barely minimum useable machines. And for sure go separate lathe and mill. The only good thing about the combo machines is that they are equally good at being bad for both purposes.
 
I'd go with a lathe separate from a mill. Rudimentary milling can be done with a lathe and a mill vice attachment for the tool rest.

Bigger equipment = heavier and more solid, non movable platform = better precision and more tool rest travel in all directions.
Most all in this category will thread forward/reverse/LH/RH.

Plus on the medium sized lathes, there are work around options that aren't available in mini lathes.
Even with only a 1" spindle bore, one can feed large barrels thru, or work the other direction towards the tailstock with rests.

Somewhere around 1400 bucks(1" spindle bore, 10 inch swingX 14-22" and about 500lbs is about minimum for long gun work.
Then after using the lathe, you will know EXACTLY what mill/speed/travel/etc. you want.
 
John, where are you at? Your location, and the potential for used machines to show up, will really affect your choices.

If you are at all a 'reading to learn' kind of guy, I really like The Amateur's Lathe, By Sparey, Workholding in The Lathe, by Tubal Cain, as well as Milling on the Lathe by same. Busy Bee usually has these in stock. Well worth the money, just for the shear ideas that are presented.

How To Run a Lathe, as well as a bunch of other books originally published by the South Bend Lathe Co., before it was bought by Grizzly Tools' owner as a brand to use on import machinery, can be found on line for free to download, or you can buy print copies.

I sorta agree with CanAm, that pre-made inserts should be avoided at least at first. While trying to learn to use a lathe, the carbide inserts can often cause at least as much problems as they are supposed to solve.
Once you learn to grind a working lathe tool out of HSS you will never be stuck again waiting for another order of expensive insert to arrive.

I like my carbide inserts too, just, they are not without their own set of needs, as far as the demands upon the operator of the machine.

I think you could do a lot better than the PA or smallest busy Bee lathes to learn on, for the same money, if you set out to find a decent used lathe. If you are stuck for space, and have the patience to work through the various faults and limitations of the smaller imports, then they may actually work OK too.

The combo machines....they have probably caused more guys to take up other hobbies, than they have helped to get started in metalworking and machining.

If you have to, have a lathe first, then get a milling machine, as you can do a LOT of stuff with a lathe and some ingenuity. Stealing ideas from books the likes of those I gave the titles to above, plays large here.

If the search function works for you, search the sub-forum and read through the rest of the stuff that has been put here. This discussion pretty much comes up about on a monthly basis, and it is likely worth the time to read through the stuff.

I bought my first lathe in the mid 1980's, bought and sold a few in the intervening years, as well as working in a machine shop in the Forces training apprentice tradesmen to basics on both lathes and mills. Still learning, too.

Cheers
Trev
 
Thank you all for your comments & in-sights. I've been "looking" around at new & used but am a bit leery on used.
Right now I'm leaning towards Busy Bees # B2227L, 10x18 with a 1" bore, seems like a decent machine that's on sale.
--- John
 
Thank you all for your comments & in-sights. I've been "looking" around at new & used but am a bit leery on used.
Right now I'm leaning towards Busy Bees # B2227L, 10x18 with a 1" bore, seems like a decent machine that's on sale.
--- John

The spindle diameter is to small and the distance between centers is to short.

Do it right the first time, even if you have to wait another year. You will save a lot of time, money and frustration.

Get a machine with enough power to handle carbide cutters. Some jobs have metal in them that is hard as all get out.
 
The spindle diameter is to small and the distance between centers is to short.

Do it right the first time, even if you have to wait another year. You will save a lot of time, money and frustration.Get a machine with enough power to handle carbide cutters. Some jobs have metal in them that is hard as all get out.

Yup... heed Bearhunter's advise if at all possible. I went the way you (OP) are headed with my first lathe (lathe/mill combo with a short 20" bed)...all I got out of it was frustration and the knowledge that I wasted money & time.
 
Pay attention to the advice given on buying a smaller "combination" type metal lathe. ---DO NOT BUT ONE for Gunsmithing unless you want a lot of frustration.

Buy a good lathe that has a larger hole through the headstock and a longer bed. Then, buy a milling machine. If you are patient, you might consider a used milling machine or even a used lathe. There are some really good buys on the Internet. I bought a lightly used 8x42 inch milling machine for $600. There are still some good buys on KIJIJI or local classified advertisements on the Internet.

My lathe, ( a 10 x 36 inch model,) was purchased over 40 years ago. While the cost was fairly high then, it has been well worth it, and if amortized, it would be about $75 a year. A smaller lathe that you first mentioned is all right for small parts, (such as firing pins), but a larger lathe, properly leveled and set up, SOLIDLY MOUNTED. is what you need to turn barrel threads. A larger lathe can do smaller jobs, but a small lathe simply can not do the larger ones.

Also, besides a milling machine, you might find an older SHAPER for a reasonable price. There are 7 inch Shapers available, and it is amazing what you can do with one. I have two of them in my shop, and I would not consider letting one go unless I had to move across country with no place to put it.
.
 
Thank you all for your comments & in-sights. I've been "looking" around at new & used but am a bit leery on used.
Right now I'm leaning towards Busy Bees # B2227L, 10x18 with a 1" bore, seems like a decent machine that's on sale.
--- John

10x18 with the 1" headstock bore would be dead on minimal. For barrel work and a lot of other jobs you're going to find that it's a sort of "80% solution". There's going to be more than one which won't fit.

And for some barrels the size of thread is going to produce enough drag on the cutter that it's going to result in a significant risk of chatter. Basically weight and stiffness counts for a lot with a metal lathe. And this one is barely going to do the job.... maybe.

It would be a great hobby lathe for a lot of other interest areas. But for gunsmithing it's small and light enough that I strongly suspect it'll simply end up being a major source of frustration along the lines that fingers found in his reply.

A better, but still far from ideal, machine would be the CT089 13x24 inch lathe. But even that is limited. It also bothers me that the biggest imperial thread size is 9tpi where most lathes will at least cut 8tpi.

I know the CT089 is almost double the price. But you'll be at least half as frustrated with it. But even it is quite limited even as a hobby gun smithing lathe. For a little more than the CT089 you can get the CX709. It is still limited in that you'll need to make a rear spider for doing serious barrel work. There is simply not enough room between the head and tail stocks for doing long barrel jobs between centers. But the bed and head is more massive and will resist chatter far better than the CT089. It also cuts that important 8 tpi option.

I'm not about to give up my 12x36. But if the house burned down and I were re-sizing my shop I'd consider the CX701. I would NOT reduce my ability and raise my blood pressure by going with the smaller CT089. It's just too small and too light.

The 1227 is a nice enough lathe for model engine or similar smaller jobs. But as a gun smithing lathe it's simply far too limited. And I suspect it'll be a chattermatic when working on bigger cuts due to the headstock and bed sizes and lighter weight. As a smaller parts lathe it would work great. But for doing jobs on barrels or receivers it's going to be an issue far too often.

The good news is that lathes are popular. So WHEN you find out that the 1227 is too small for the bigger jobs you'll likely get a decent percentage of your cost back. The real issue comes with the tooling you build up which will only be partially useable with the bigger machine which you SHOULD buy. You'll lose your shirt on that part of the package.

What will happen is that you'll spend the $1500 with taxes on the machine itself. Then you'll quickly add up another $700 to $1000 in tooling to go with the lathe which is sized suitable for this machine. Then you'll come to realize that it's too small and limited and you'll sell the whole lot as a package since much of the tooling is too small for the machine you SHOULD have bought. But folks feel that they should get these bits along with the lathe and simply won't pay you back for your investment. So you'll end up selling the whole package for around $1500 to $1800. And that means the lesson you will learn with the small machine will cost you a bunch of frustration and something like $700 out of pocket.

With the CT089 you'll end up finding that it's OK with just a few issues. It'll make you swear on occasion but you'll get by. You'll likely have to come up with some creative home made tooling to make it easy to support the barrels so you can work on them. Doing any full length barrel work will be impossible due to the short bed. But with some care and experience you'll develop the skills to make it work. But it'll leave you wanting more.

The CX701 will still be too short to do full single pass exterior work. But for the other jobs the higher weight and quick change gear box will prove far less frustrating in a number of ways. The $500 extra over the CT089 SHOULD make the choice in favor of the CX701 a slam dunk decision. The 701 will make you smile a lot more when using it and there would be a few less cases where you need to flip the work around to finish the cuts.

For me my home lathe started out as a Myford ML7. By all accounts this is THE home lathe to have. But it turned out that it was a very poor machine in many ways. It's far too light and flexible. This meant that it tended to chatter at the slightest sign of stress. The room over the bed and room over the carriage was also very limited. I offer this since the 1227 will put you into the same boat as I was with the Myford.

I know that home hobby stuff often has to compromise. But if your goal is to perform some gunsmithing then this is not the place to back pedal. Save up longer and at least get the CT089 or similar from Grizzly. And preferably spend the extra $500 and get the CX701.

And even this is a compromise compared to the 12x36 or 14x40 that you SHOULD be getting. But at least the CX701 is a reasonable compromise. It won't prove to block you doing jobs in too many cases.
 
A tooo-short lathe is like a 4" husband...seems like a good idea at the time but frustration soon builds to the breaking point... especially when she knows there is an 8" model out there just waiting to be put to good use.
 
I started with a 6" atlas and abandoned it as it was frustrating. I had learned on a large engine lathe.

For me, a 14x40 on a stand is as small as I dare go for gun work.
 
I have the Busybee 2229 combi mill/lathe.
It's fine for rough aluminum and plastic work (+-5 thou).

If you are planning on doing anything else with it, please HOOO please listen to the reccomendations above.

Cheers
 
I have the Busybee 2229 combi mill/lathe.
It's fine for rough aluminum and plastic work (+-5 thou).

If you are planning on doing anything else with it, please HOOO please listen to the reccomendations above.

Cheers

They're that bad? If the best your machine can do is +/-.005 it's scrapmetal. With proper skill, a decent machine and appropriate tooling, one should be able to hit +/-.0005" to +/-.001" all day, every day in any material.
 
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