LCW 7.62x39 Nail Test

Hey , easy solution :) Don't shoot real ammo. Buy pellet guns...
And about corrosive or not,... I clean my guns after each range visit, no problem here. And the weather is improving, so my CanAm order is on the way...
 
olbar70 said:
Hey , easy solution :) Don't shoot real ammo. Buy pellet guns...
And about corrosive or not,... I clean my guns after each range visit, no problem here. And the weather is improving, so my CanAm order is on the way...
Click to expand...

Maybe you should have finished reading the original post. This thread isn't about the merits of corrosive or non. It's about whether or not LCW is in fact corrosive or not, because if people believe it to be non, they might just wait a day or two to clean their guns.
So keep your condescending, nonconstructive comments to yourself, or take them to another thread.
 
Thanks for the taking the time to put this ammo to the test mobusten, and please give us an update after 72hours, but it doesn't look good for this non-corrosive M43.
 
Corrosive vs non-corrosive, the truth is all primers are corrosive to some degree. Primers are a "high-order" explosive, which are a product of acids. Yes they generally neutralize any acidity to some degree, but that can be expensive. So, a certain degree of neutralization is regarded as "good enough." Totally neutral is measured at 7.0000 pH. 6.9995pH would be acidic, and most people would call that 7.0 and be done with it, but it isn't 7.00000. Would it be sincere to call that acidic? Probably not. 6.5 is slightly acidic, and in terms of ammunition primer, it may even get away with being called non-corrosive.

I would like to see pH results. Take 10 of each type (3 brands) and then have a fourth as unfired brass for your control. Pop the primers in a safety rig of some sort in a well-ventilated area. So there are now 40 cases to test. Get some distilled water, and measure out exactly enough to fill each case, and allow them to sit and absorb any residues. Then measure each one with pH paper. Litmus is a type of indicator that would give you a general idea of the pH (1.0 to 14.0) but there are better indicators that will do 5.5 to 8.0 range only (for example), and give a better degree of accuracy.

This should prove what is truly "non-corrosive."
 
basic_drill said:
Corrosive vs non-corrosive, the truth is all primers are corrosive to some degree. Primers are a "high-order" explosive, which are a product of acids. Yes they generally neutralize any acidity to some degree, but that can be expensive. So, a certain degree of neutralization is regarded as "good enough." Totally neutral is measured at 7.0000 pH. 6.9995pH would be acidic, and most people would call that 7.0 and be done with it, but it isn't 7.00000. Would it be sincere to call that acidic? Probably not. 6.5 is slightly acidic, and in terms of ammunition primer, it may even get away with being called non-corrosive.

I would like to see pH results. Take 10 of each type (3 brands) and then have a fourth as unfired brass for your control. Pop the primers in a safety rig of some sort in a well-ventilated area. So there are now 40 cases to test. Get some distilled water, and measure out exactly enough to fill each case, and allow them to sit and absorb any residues. Then measure each one with pH paper. Litmus is a type of indicator that would give you a general idea of the pH (1.0 to 14.0) but there are better indicators that will do 5.5 to 8.0 range only (for example), and give a better degree of accuracy.

This should prove what is truly "non-corrosive."
Click to expand...

Well I'm going to leave that test up to you my friend...
 
burnaby said:
Just the responses from this thread alone proves natural selection is a good thing missing from the CDN entitlement society. Thus far we have learned:
  1. in firearm community guilty till proven innocent thus all ammo are corrosive cause once upon a time one deceptive store lied about their product.
  2. Need reloading tools to pull a fracking bullet instead of just two pair of plyers which will damage the components that aren't being reloaded so whoopy ding dong.
Click to expand...

A vice and pliers solved my previous issue. But glad to hear that my lack of knowledge in reloading qualifies me for natural selection.

I just did a test with Romanian corrosive, Norinco silver box non corrosive and LCW HP non corrosive. I will update in a couple of days with pictures.
 
So I checked on the nails again today, decided to check the back sides of the nails. Seems to be more revealing.

Here are the nails aproximately 72 hrs after primer detonation.

S&B nail. Still no signs of rust at all.
ibkwsm.jpg



Chinese nail. Showing more obvious rust near the bottom of the nail.
2q1i1ee.jpg



The LCW nail. Also showing more obvious rusty colour near the bottom.
11tq0w5.jpg



It's difficult to take pictures of the lower portion of the nails on my phone for some reason. It is quite a bit more noticeable in person than in photographs. I suspect leaving the empty case over the nail is somewhat shielding the upper portion from the moisture in the air that the lower portion receives. So I will leave the shells off of the nails for tonight and tomorrow and see if that helps the rest of the nails catch up with the lower portions, but this is so far not looking good in my opinion. Seeing as how the S&B nail has shown no change compared with the other two.
 
looking like we can call the lcw at least half corrosive? i think ill stick with surplus. i was looking foreward to these crates, ill keep comiing back here, hopefully canam will show his test.
 
couldn't test data be supplied by the manufacturer? or is that not a normal thing for a retailer to ask for from a manufacturer before selling their products?
 
OP: thanks for taking the initiative on this test. I took the advertising at face value and ordered based on expecting true non-corrosive ammo. My order just shipped today, so I will hopefully be receiving it next week and if no one has followed up with another test I will pull a bullet or three and ctry it out. Only drawback is I am also in Calgary, it would be nice to see a test from a more naturally humid location where results should be more conclusive.
 
Did you shoot the s+b, then Chinese, then LCW in that order? I wonder if there was some corrosive residue from the Chinese primers blown out with your LCW...

I would be curious to see this test done with the Chinese corrosive shot last, starting with a clean bore.
 
Black Cloud said:
Did you shoot the s+b, then Chinese, then LCW in that order? I wonder if there was some corrosive residue from the Chinese primers blown out with your LCW...

I would be curious to see this test done with the Chinese corrosive shot last, starting with a clean bore.
Click to expand...

As I stated before, it was S&B, then LCW, then Chinese, and there was no gun involved, so there's no bore for any particles to be "blown out" of.
 
I like the tested you did.

One varriable that might have been over looked is handling them before the test. know when I deal with corrosion coupons at work, the coupons need to come in a sealed bag and it must be handled with laytex glooves. Any contamination will give different results, becayse there might be different corsion happening.
 
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