LE #5 flash hider loose
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Those pins are an extremely tight fit....so is the hider on the barrel. I don't believe they were ever intended to be removed.
Is this the original steel hider or a replacement like Numrich Arms sells?
I'd think if loose having it silver soldered on might work pretty well. The pins are tapered and might be hard to duplicate.
Tiriaq: good advice for a lot of people.
However, I was rummaging about at Princess Auto and came across some low-temp silver-solder. Not much silver but a good bond and it requires only 400F. Comes in little tubes of paste so you can squirt it where you want it. About nine bucks a tiny ittybitty little wee tube.
Hope this helps.
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However, I was rummaging about at Princess Auto and came across some low-temp silver-solder. Not much silver but a good bond and it requires only 400F. Comes in little tubes of paste so you can squirt it where you want it. About nine bucks a tiny ittybitty little wee tube.
Hope this helps.
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Brownells sells high and low temp silver bearing solders. High temp is mostly silver, low is a cadmium/silver alloy with about 4% silver. Nice clean solder to use.
I don't know from experience, but suspect that the 400+ degrees the low temp silver solder requires would damage Suncorite.
I don't know from experience, but suspect that the 400+ degrees the low temp silver solder requires would damage Suncorite.
So I guess I would have to get the pins out and gently tap the bayonet lug with a non marring mallet to remove it and clean everything with solvent and JB Weld it. Is there enough space to use JB Weld or would I have to go with something thinner like Loctite ? Seems Odd it would come loose. It doesn't get handled roughly ???
Very odd...those things are really on there.
Remember, the pins are tapered, and it's not really easy to figure out in which direction. We broke a lot of little pin punches.
Once the pins are out it's easy to get it off.
I wonder what Captain Laidler would say, over on milsurps dot com? He IS an Armourer, after all. They used a lot of JCs in the Emergency and he rebuilt a pile of them afterwards, so either he knows or it's in his Notes.
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Good thought Smellie !!! I'll post it there and see who picks upJack
I know for a fact he's removed and replaced JC flash hiders, he's posted about it before.
Thing is, he had all the government's heavy duty equipment made for the task, like hydraulic presses etc.
Things are pretty slow over at milsurps.com now, Summer I guess. I had one reply, he said he broke two punches, then took a wrench and twisted it off I did a search and found this. Quote " The flash suppressors are pressed on hot, so you need to heat it up to red hot and drive it off, I made up a sleeve [2piece] to go over barrel, a counter bored insert to fit inside suppressor and into barrel muzzle and use a press to push it off." This maybe "Mickey Mouse" but I'm thinking about soaking the muzzle in brake cleaner and after it dried running some "Crazy Glue in around under the flash Hider. It's not what you could say :Loose: but with effort can turn a bit. I wonder if that could have anything to do with the " Wandering Zero" myth. I don't really want to take it to our local gunsmiths. The worst I think I could do is end up where I am now.
I did a search and found this. Quote " The flash suppressors are pressed on hot, so you need to heat it up to red hot and drive it off, I made up a sleeve [2piece] to go over barrel, a counter bored insert to fit inside suppressor and into barrel muzzle and use a press to push it off." This maybe "Mickey Mouse" but I'm thinking about soaking the muzzle in brake cleaner and after it dried running some "Crazy Glue in around under the flash Hider. It's not what you could say :Loose: but with effort can turn a bit. I wonder if that could have anything to do with the " Wandering Zero" myth. I don't really want to take it to our local gunsmiths. The worst I think I could do is end up where I am now.Good idea, but I'm not sure that I would use Krazy Glue. For one, I have no idea what you can use to remove cyanoacrylates.
I would think a 2-part epoxy would do the trick. I have seen barrel liners put in with Brownell's Acra-Glass and they HELD. Nice thing about Acra-Glas is that if you want to remove it, you can degrade the stuff into a tan dust by slopping ACETONE all over it, or soaking the stuff in Acetone.
Also works for removing butchered bedding jobs without having to buy a new stock or a box of router bits.
Hope this helps.
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I would think a 2-part epoxy would do the trick. I have seen barrel liners put in with Brownell's Acra-Glass and they HELD. Nice thing about Acra-Glas is that if you want to remove it, you can degrade the stuff into a tan dust by slopping ACETONE all over it, or soaking the stuff in Acetone.
Also works for removing butchered bedding jobs without having to buy a new stock or a box of router bits.
Hope this helps.
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I was thinking Krazy Glue is thin enough that it would penetrate everywhere. As long as it stays put I don't have to worry about removing it. Not sure but I think acetone would remove Krazy Glue. If I could get the pins out and the flash hider off I would try the epoxy but I don't think it's loose enough to get off easily and I don't want to damage the bayonet lug or anything. I found Peter Laidler's reply to a loose LE #5 flash hider Quote....Ok............, ok, ok..... This is how WE did it. There may be other methods but this is the one we used gained from long hard won experience. Remove the two morse taper cross pins. Sometimes they'll tap out quite easily. Others will need a bit of coaxing with a lump hammer and a short stubby drift to start them (then they'll drop out.....). Others will need pressing out on a press. If you really do butcher the pins then you'll need to drill them to start. We had a small drilling template.
Once the pins are out you might find one that will just tap off but be warned................. Any more than a gently tap will damage/bend the bayonet standard and you'll never fit a bayonet if you need to refit the flash eliminator. Or you might damage the foresight protector ears. It's better to press it off right from the word go. But if you want to use heat or just a big hammer, that's up to you........
Put the rifle upright into the press, barrel between two vee blocks just as though you were pressing out a set of wheel bearings. Then, we had a short dumpy piece of hard nickel rod that was an exact fit into the core of the flash eliminator with a centre spigot that would 'centre' into the bore of the barrel. The outer diameter would just sit onto the flat of the muzzle of course. Now operate the press lever and the barrel/action will be pressed out of the flash eliminator with no damage of any sort.
I don’t remember any solder or tinning of any sort although there might have been for a loose one……… but if it were loose, we’d find and fit one that wasn’t!
Refit and align the flash eliminator as you would for fitting a barrel. Ream out the taper pin holes to accept the new taper pins, refit the pins and tap them tight. ........... After reading that I think I'll likely try Krazy Glue first. Jack
Once the pins are out you might find one that will just tap off but be warned................. Any more than a gently tap will damage/bend the bayonet standard and you'll never fit a bayonet if you need to refit the flash eliminator. Or you might damage the foresight protector ears. It's better to press it off right from the word go. But if you want to use heat or just a big hammer, that's up to you........
Put the rifle upright into the press, barrel between two vee blocks just as though you were pressing out a set of wheel bearings. Then, we had a short dumpy piece of hard nickel rod that was an exact fit into the core of the flash eliminator with a centre spigot that would 'centre' into the bore of the barrel. The outer diameter would just sit onto the flat of the muzzle of course. Now operate the press lever and the barrel/action will be pressed out of the flash eliminator with no damage of any sort.
I don’t remember any solder or tinning of any sort although there might have been for a loose one……… but if it were loose, we’d find and fit one that wasn’t!
Refit and align the flash eliminator as you would for fitting a barrel. Ream out the taper pin holes to accept the new taper pins, refit the pins and tap them tight. ........... After reading that I think I'll likely try Krazy Glue first. Jack
