Learning to handle the Ruger SP-101 .357 mag.

josquin

josquin

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I picked up one of these last spring but have only had it to the range a couple of times (Shameful, I know.) The first time I took .38 Spl. handloads with wadcutters as I didn't at that time have a .357, and fired of a few cylinders just to get the feel of it. ("A little frisky but promising" I put on its report card.) I've replaced the factory grips with Hogue Monogrips as they have room for your pinky. I have these on my S&W 625 and like them.

Last week I took some mid-range .357 loads (13 gr. of 2400 behind 158 gr. RNFP that I'd loaded for my re-bored Martini Cadet) to see how I'd manage with them in the Ruger. I haven't chronoed them from the Ruger but I estimate around 1150 fps. (~1725 in the Martini.)

In short, it was unpleasant. I found it really slammed my palm and beat up my supporting (left) hand thumb as I had it under my right thumb, along the side of the frame.

Now I realize that a small .357 will be a bit of a handful anyway and I'll simply need to get used to it by shooting it regularly with reduced loads. Has anyone else had experience with these or similar revolvers?
 
Had a 3 inch years ago. Just shoot a few 357s in it and a whole bunch of 38s. No need to shoot 357s except when you let someone else try it. Mine only held 357 125gr max so the recoil was bearable. After a while its no big deal but a lot more fun to shoot 38s. Like all Rugers, a great gun.
 
That's the main reason why I sold mine after less than 50 rounds. The trigger guard knocked my knuckles on each shot. Sold that pos with a profit so it's all good.
 
SUPER TENERE said:
... No need to shoot 357s except when you let someone else try it. ..
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LOL! Did that at the range last week. One fellow did OK as he'd done a fair bit of pistol shooting but the other guy... :) I don't need to shoot a lot of full-house .357s in it; i can easily download to something comfortable in the .38 Spec (or +P) range that won't hurt. (I also have a S&W Model 15 3T) I figure I should learn to shoot a bit of the stiffer stuff "just because", or get a GP100 or 586/686 for the standard loads. It didn't beat up my middle finger, though.

If I was skilled enough I'd have a go at making a set of full-size grips for it, as I'm obviously not going to be using it as a carry piece. (Hmmm.... is the grip "stub" the same as a GP100? I wonder if one of the grips available for a GP100 would fit, perhaps with a bit of trimming around the upper frame area?)

It's the only gun I've bought new. It had a few sharp edges on it (not uncommon on these, I understand) but those were easily taken care of. Also did a little internal polishing and am pleased with it otherwise.
 
I have two S&W 19's with 2-1/2" barrels. 158gr XTP with 16.6gr 296 are a handful. As stated earler, use a high grip and hold on.

Auggie D.
 
plinker 777 said:
1) Your support thumb has no business being under your support hand thumb, it should be the other way around. Your support hand thumb works the hammer for SA.
2) Try shooting it single handed or 'tea cup and saucer' style. if you're struggling with 'a'.
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I was using a similar thumb position to what you use for a semi-auto- thumbs down on the LH side. The support thumb on top, or, as I have sometimes seen, crossed over the strong thumb, is one I haven't tried. I use the "support thumb under" just fine on my Model 15 and 625 but there is less recoil. Moving the support thumb up seems to reduce the support hand's contact on the LH of the grip, as does the "teacup" grip, but they're worth trying.

Single-handed? Only in an emergency! (Or cowboy action.) The two-hand grip is used for stability and accuracy. The gun really torques with a single-handed hold. It can be done, but I'm not Bill Jordan or Jerry Miculek. :)


Experimenting with the "support thumb over" just now, one thing I notice is that although I have slightly less contact with the grip with the support hand, it does seem to allow for more tension (in a good way) with the 2nd finger under the trgger guard. Will look into this...
 
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OldFrankHog said:
Hope you find a good grip that works for you. If you decide to part with the gun shoot me a PM ;)
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Bookmarked- just in case...;)

I'm not giving up on this puppy unless I simply can't "get a grip", though. My crazy/impractical/make lots of work for myself/ side is wondering if a GP100 type standard-size grip could be modified to suit the SP-101, although I'll stop before considering a set of custom Herretts.. at least with the Cdn dollar in its current slump.
 
josquin said:
I was using a similar thumb position to what you use for a semi-auto- thumbs down on the LH side. The support thumb on top, or, as I have sometimes seen, crossed over the strong thumb, is one I haven't tried. I use the "support thumb under" just fine on my Model 15 and 625 but there is less recoil. Moving the support thumb up seems to reduce the support hand's contact on the LH of the grip, as does the "teacup" grip, but they're worth trying.

Single-handed? Only in an emergency! (Or cowboy action.) The two-hand grip is used for stability and accuracy. The gun really torques with a single-handed hold. It can be done, but I'm not Bill Jordan or Jerry Miculek. :)


Experimenting with the "support thumb over" just now, one thing I notice is that although I have slightly less contact with the grip with the support hand, it does seem to allow for more tension (in a good way) with the 2nd finger under the trgger guard. Will look into this...
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...sounds like you're on your way. Don't hold the revolver like a semi-auto. Different gun demands a different grip, thumbs forward on a revolver will no doubt, one day, cause a nasty gas laceration when a digit sneaks just a little too forward.
My support hand is basically wrapped around my trigger hand. LH (support) palm is almost on my wrist, thumb over the RH and operates the hammer, LH index finger under trigger guard, the other 3 naturally fall underneath (yet over) the RH on the grip.
Single hand torque-ie shooting is fun...practice :)
 
No. The SP 101 is a smaller frame than a GP100, so the grips are not interchangeable. If you want to do a lot of shooting, get the GP100. The SP 101 was designed more for carry than serious shooting. I've owned one SP 101 and two GP100s. The GPs are easier and more pleasant to shoot. Much heavier revolver. Soaks up recoil like theres no tomorrow.
 
I had an Airweight Smith in 38 spl, it was pretty abrupt, and I shot an SP 101 which wasn't quite as bad. The worst by far was an Airweight 357 - I fired 5 rounds of 125 JHP and my hand was ringing and fingers were numb. The bruising lasted about a week. As far as my 38 went, I found locking your thumbs down helped with recoil, but did pound the knuckle against the trigger guard. One handed with a snubby is a non-starter.
 
enefgee said:
I had an Airweight Smith in 38 spl, it was pretty abrupt, and I shot an SP 101 which wasn't quite as bad. The worst by far was an Airweight 357 - I fired 5 rounds of 125 JHP and my hand was ringing and fingers were numb. The bruising lasted about a week. As far as my 38 went, I found locking your thumbs down helped with recoil, but did pound the knuckle against the trigger guard.
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Geez... looks like I got off lightly.

I've been practicing with the correct "thumbs-down" grip this evening and I think it will be better on the SP101. I also tried changing back to the original grips and they're not so bad after all. They seem a bit wider and softer than the Hogue plus they seem to allow a higher hold. I can just get my strong hand pinky on the grip but the supporting hand one has to go underneath. I have a feeling that if the factory grips were available 1/2" longer they might be ideal but of course the CCW folks wouldn't like them.

Once the good weather returns it will be time to head out to the range again with a bunch of .38 Spls. and a few .357s to see what's what.

One handed with a snubby is a non-starter
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But that's the way they do it in the movies! (The same movies presumably beloved of Allan Rock which convinced him that .32 & .25 cals. and their metric equivalents were "used by the criminal element", and therefore capable of corrupting us honest folks.)
 
With the original grips, my 101 felt to small in my hand...

I did order some bigger composite grips that made the 101 a joy to shoot, very accurate revolver, and very manegable recoil even with full house load of 357...

Trigger is good and overall, it's an excellent firearm, only got 50 rounds out of it so far but it's a nice mecanic, Ruger make good firearms... JP.

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caramel said:
With the original grips, my 101 felt to small in my hand...

I did order some bigger composite grips that made the 101 a joy to shoot, very accurate revolver, and very manegable recoil even with full house load of 357...

Trigger is good and overall, it's an excellet firearm, only got 50 rounds out of it so far but it's a nice mecanic, Ruger make good firearms... JP.

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I need this... <breathes heavily>
 
I would guess the 101 is the smallest revolver you can get that is restricted, it shoot like a bigger revolver and the sights are top quality...
This is a very nice add on to my herd of handguns... JP.
 
caramel said:
... I did order some bigger composite grips that made the 101 a joy to shoot, very accurate revolver, and very manegable recoil even with full house load of 357...
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Those are the nylon Hogue Monogrips; mine are the rubber. Pachmayr make a similar product. Manageable with full-house, eh? "No pain, no gain."

:)
 
josquin said:
Those are the nylon Hogue Monogrips; mine are the rubber. Pachmayr make a similar product. Manageable with full-house, eh? "No pain, no gain."

:)
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I got both the rubber and the nylon, i prefer the nylon because i can have a higher grip du to the slippery nylon, the rubber ones force me to keep my fingers in the grip finger groves...

Sure it will never be my number one revolver and it probably be replaced by my coming Match Champion, the small package of this 101 is what make it desireable, those bigger grips sure are welcome... JP.
 
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Ruger 101...

Slow SA shooting at 17 yards with 38 Spl 148 gr SWC

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