Lee Classic Turret Press ??? 3 hole turret??

quinnbrian

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I have a Lee Classic turret press, works great. But would like to know if I can use a 3 hole turret with it? Do I need to change the turret head/turret holder? If anyone has some experience with this , It would be greatly appreciated.
I bought a 3 hole turret and it doesn't work....I think it's for the model 1000. So can I change the turret holder and index rod from a 1000 , into my Lee classic turret press?...
Cheers
Brian
 
the 3 hole one will not work the head is different on it the 4 hole works better you can put a powder measure on and a factory crimp die on that's what I use all the time. the 3 hole ones are the older model and I don't think you can modifiy them
 
I suspect that by the time you buy the holding ring even if it is compatible that the cost will be up there enough that you may as well just buy another press.

If you already have the 4 hole press why are you simply not buying 4 hole die plates? That solves all the possible issues and it's going to be a LOT cheaper to boot.

If the goal is to try to convert your indexing turret press into a progressive then you can't get there from here. The nose of the ram on the progressive is totally different and not at all compatible with the single ended ram on the turret model.
 
I have an older 3-hole turret and once thought it would be nice to be able to set up with the 4-hole. I bought a conversion kit and was disappointed to learn that I needed to switch the entire press head. So to answer your question, no. A press either takes 3-hole or 4-hole, they are not interchangeable.

In my case, I sold the conversion kit, and am damn glad I did. I load five calibers on my turret, not one of them requires four dies for anything. I would have just been skipping an empty hole each round, wasting time. I really can't understand why the 4-hole is now the more popular, it's a waste of time unless you are doing something rather special.
 
I have an older 3-hole turret and once thought it would be nice to be able to set up with the 4-hole. I bought a conversion kit and was disappointed to learn that I needed to switch the entire press head. So to answer your question, no. A press either takes 3-hole or 4-hole, they are not interchangeable.

In my case, I sold the conversion kit, and am damn glad I did. I load five calibers on my turret, not one of them requires four dies for anything. I would have just been skipping an empty hole each round, wasting time. I really can't understand why the 4-hole is now the more popular, it's a waste of time unless you are doing something rather special.

I'm curious how you load for pistol. My 4 hole press has sizing/decapping die, powder thrower, seater and crimper. Do you size and decap off the press?
 
This is why I wanted a 3 hole turret , I uses a Lee 3 die set for 9mm, have for a long time, with know problems. I know a lot of people say, you have to "factory" crimp....but I haven't never!!
Anyways, I'm looking at a 3 hole turret press for sale, and think, I'm just going to buy it. And yes I will try to uses the parts on my Lee classic cast iron turret press, just to see if they will work.
Cheers
Brian

BCRider, my goal was to, not have to pull the handle... one more time....on an empty hole.....waste of time.
 
Seriously, if you're worried about the extra pull then I would say that you really should be considering going progressive. Even if I didn't shoot as often and as much as I do I'd still want to continue loading my handgun ammo on a progressive. I'd rather load fast and just do it less often.

So if you're looking at another press I'd suggest that you reconsider and look at the cheaper progressive alternatives instead of another turret style.

On the factory crimp thing. I got away with seating and crimping all in one go for a long time. Then I tried loading some cast lead bullets and found that if the seating is off by even a hair that bad things happen because the rim mouth is closing up and biting into the side of the bullet while it is still being seated. It can be done but it needs a VERY light crimp if there's no cannelure groove. A FCD gets around that by only crimping after the bullet is seated.

It's also an issue with plated bullets. And with the cost of thicker jacketed bullets going up all the time many of us are "making do" with things like Campro or Berry's plated bullets. And the info from the makers says to be very carefull in terms of achieving the lightest of crimps or just barely no crimp at all to avoid cutting the thin plating.

So if you happen to consider a progressive I'd keep this in mind and at least buy one that holds four dies.
 
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Thanks for input BCRider, I have been using Winchester jacketed bullets for sometime, had 2 lots of 5000. But have been looking at making some lead ones. Not interested in going/making anymore shells ( going faster ), was just trying to cut down on the number of pull per bullet/shell. I thought of buying a new progressive press, but like the turret style , makes you (me) slow down and look, just a little more.
I've never tied a crimping die....maybe its time I did?
But if I can buy some more Winchester jacket bullets at a great price....I will. :)
Cheers
Brian
 
I've loaded thousands of rounds without the crimping die. But when I tried the wrong cast bullet that one time I ran into trouble when the settings "walked" a little somewhere along the way.

The loading in question was done on a Lee 3 hole progressive that I got stuck with using because my Dillon was packed up somewhere in a mountain of boxes pending renos being finished. But shooting events still beckoned so a buddy and I made do with a Lee. A few mods to fix issues later and we were running fairly well.

Again as long as you understand that the simultaneous seating and crimping in one operation needs to be given the proper attention to avoid issues it can be fine. Just keep a close eye on that sucker! The option of a separate crimping die is that it removes the need for this level of close monitoring. Also a taper crimp is less sensitive to the slight differences in casing length that strongly affects how a roll crimp die forms the ends. So at some point I'd say it's a wise way to go. But with care and monitoring the combo seat&crimp can do just fine.

Oh, my buddy is now the happy owner of the highly modified Lee. As for me I was happy to pass it along and give my Dillon a BIG hug when it once again showed up after unpacking.

As for you? Have you looked at some videos showing progressives in action? It might just ease your concerns over multiple operations in one pull. If it helps there's still lots of things you can check between lever pulls. For example my own loading goes something like this. Assume the lever was just pulled and then pushed to set a primer and the cycle starts.....

  • Set bullet on charged and flared case. Set next casing in starting position.
  • Index the shell plate manually (Dillon 550b). During indexing check primer ram to ensure primer is gone and that the old primer wasn't pushed back into the case.
  • All being well the lever is now pulled to run the operations then pushed to seat the new primer.
  • Cycle is finished and ready for the next repetition.

For .38Spl and .357Mag I add on a check of the case height because these get mixed up all too easily. But when placing the casings in the starting spot it's not that hard to compare and spot the wrong one. See? Having more positions with cases CAN be a good thing! :d And I suppose with the small and large primer .45ACP I'll likely end up double checking each case before placing it as well.

So going progressive doesn't mean you give up the control and inspections. It just means you do them a little differently. You've obviously loaded a lot of ammo on your turret already. I don't think it's a big stretch to move on to a full progressive at this point. In particular if you opt for a manually indexed model. If you find yourself understanding and nodding at some of the videos I think it would be a very doable step at this point.
 
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