Lee enfield bolt head replacement

84mmcarl-gustav

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Hi,i got two enfield no4 and 5 failed the nogo gauge (bolt close on gauge)
the bolt head number is 0.,so i should take a number 1 or 2 ??what is the different in thousand betwen them,the way up to 3,thank you
 
they are not consistantly sized, and a small no1 may be smaller that a large no0, measure your bolt head and then look for a 1 that is ~.01" bigger and try it, you may have to find a no2 to get one big enough
 
hi,no1 and 2,is there a place i could found them in Canada.thank

Have you got a Field gauge of either .070" or .074"?

If so, check headspace with that.

If not, get a military spec .074" field gauge from member Gairlochian.

With the gauge under the extractor and the bolt forward, you ease the bolt handle down with light fingertip pressure, like 2 fingers lightly pushing, and stop when resistance is felt. It's very easy to use the bolt's leverage to force it down, even when it passes, but don't do that.

If it fails with a Field gauge, then look for higher number bolt heads.
 
I believe you can also get a new barrel cut to work with the headspace of your current bolt face. You'd have to be pretty attached to the rifle though, this will probably cost 2-3x the value of the thing.

Where you'd find someone to do the work I don't know. I've been casually looking for a shop that can do this for a couple years now.
 
I believe you can also get a new barrel cut to work with the headspace of your current bolt face. You'd have to be pretty attached to the rifle though, this will probably cost 2-3x the value of the thing.

Where you'd find someone to do the work I don't know. I've been casually looking for a shop that can do this for a couple years now.

...that doesn't make sense with a Lee Enfield, with varying bolt heads readily available. Just change the bolt head, not the barrel.

Best setup yet...the AIA and Savage and .45acp Enfield setup with adjustable headspace via Brewster collar.

http://forums.gunboards.com/archive/index.php/t-80849.html
 
cantom

I belong to the "Brotherhood of the Nut"...........

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The Enfield rifle in question "ain't got no nut" and replacing a bolt head is sometimes no simple task. If you listen to Mr. Peter Laidler he talks about "bolt head timing" and in the Canadian manual they made it simpler and allow for more wear on the rifle and set measurements on how much gap you should have between the rear of the bolt and the cocking piece. Both of these methods relate to when the bolt head contacts the collar on the firing pin and on top of this you want the bolt head tight without any bolt head over rotation.

My bottom line here is it "may" take finding severial bolt heads and trial fitting them before the bolt head is within limits.

Below is a photo I got from Beelzebub at the Gunboards forums years ago, it is a photo of his New Zealand gunsmiths No.4 bolt heads he uses for "fitting" the proper bolt head.

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This Enfield bolt below was severely worn and had to be replaced to bring the rifle into specifications. Bolt thrust caused wear and the bolt was too short to pass a headspace test.

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Well - As stated above, you should be using the true military field gage (0.074 in). Frankly, I'm surprised that both your rifles failed...
Here's another option, rather than spending money on bolt heads, and fitting, just start to reload for the 303. You can neck size or partially resize the cases to achieve headspace on the case, rather than the rim. Accuracy and case life will improve as a result.
 
A little food for thought, below is a sectioned Winchester factory loaded cartridge case, it was fired in my 1943 Maltby and the headspace is set at just under .067.

The factory loaded Winchester case below stretched .009 in the web area when fired the first time in my Enfield that is .007 thousandths "under" maximum headspace limits.

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Below the once fired factory loaded case has stretched .009 in the base web area on the first firing and will "NOT" last very long when reloaded.

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Below on the left is a new unfired .303 case, please notice the location of the case shoulder of the unfired case and the two fired cases to the right. The factory loaded case on the right has only been reloaded three time at near maximum loads.

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The Winchester case below when fired the first time expanded more on one side than the other, this caused the case to stretch unevenly at an angle.

Commercial cartridges cases are "NOT" designed to military specifications and were never designed to be shot in long fat military chambers. Therefore fire forming your commercial cases is critical to long case life.

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The fire forming trick below was taught to me by a Canadian in the old Jouster forum. All you do is slip a rubber o-ring around the case and the o-ring will hold the case against the bolt face and prevent any case stretching in the web area when first fired.

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Below the rubber o-ring holds the case against the bolt face and also as the o-ring is compressed it "centers" the case in the rear of the chamber. The centering of the case will promote equal case expansion and thus accuracy with better case alignment in the chamber.

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After fire forming, the cases then can be neck sized only and the cases will then headspace on the shoulder which will hold the case against the bolt face preventing further stretching in the web area of the case.

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When I fire form cases I remove the extractor to prevent it from cutting or nicking the rubber o-ring, and also help center the case in the rear of the chamber. I also grease the rear of the locking lugs to help prevent any undo wear on the locking lugs when closing the bolt on the snug fitting cases. Your headspace and rim thickness will govern the size of the o-ring but remember compressing the o-ring helps center the case in the rear of the chamber.

One reloader at Gunboards was able to reload his Remington .303 cases 32 times before the first case failure which was only a split case neck. ;) "NOT" one single case head seperation in 32 reloadings, thats not bad for the old Lee Enfield rifle.
 
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