Lee Enfield headspace question..
- Thread starter Keller
- Start date
- Location
- WMU247 near Edmonton
I have seen a few that headspace fine but the chambers are way oversize and just destroy brass.
and that is something you cant fix with a new bolthead
and that is something you cant fix with a new bolthead
That happens but is fairly rare. More common on late war Brit no.4 rifles in my experience than on other models and eras.
Very kind of you. I'm between Sudbury and North Bay.
I have a Martini that has a large chamber that I dedicate 50 brass to. After I neck size not a problem. I full length resize my cast loads and use them in all my rifles. If I fire other brass in it they don’t last. It will chamber my fired brass from any 303 I’ve tried. Sometimes you just have to work with what you have.
I had a Martini with the same issue you describe, it had a 1938 conversion date stamped on it, along with both British and Turkish proofs.
I sold it to a collector of Martini rifles, as it was in 90+% condition.
I did the same as you describe, a box of 50 cases, fireformed to the chamber. Not much else can be done.
Is there a conversion date on your rifle???
My martini is CAW marked. Two dates on the receiver 1871 and 1884. Someone cut the forestock down which someday I plan to make one. I have the band and nose piece. I bought I piece of walnut to make the forestock but haven’t started it yet. The butt may also get replaced. Too many projects on the go.
Well, I pulled the trigger on purchasing GO, NO-GO, and FIELD gauges for .303 British. $200 bucks later I'm glad I did.
Turns out the 1943 rifle closes quite nicely on the FIELD gauge and I have taken it out of service until I can source a #3 bolt head and test it further. The 1944 checks out and will be my only Lee Enfield shooter for the time being.
Now, where to find a #3 bolt head?
Turns out the 1943 rifle closes quite nicely on the FIELD gauge and I have taken it out of service until I can source a #3 bolt head and test it further. The 1944 checks out and will be my only Lee Enfield shooter for the time being.
Now, where to find a #3 bolt head?
Ignore the numbers in bolt heads. The heads were ground by armorers when installed, so unless new old stock, the numbers don’t mean anything you can rely on. I’ve seen used 0 bolt heads measure longer than used no.3 marked heads.
Measure your current bolt from the face to where it contacts the face of the bolt body using a vernier caliper. Then look for another bolt head that is longer than what you have in that dimension.
Measure your current bolt from the face to where it contacts the face of the bolt body using a vernier caliper. Then look for another bolt head that is longer than what you have in that dimension.
Buy bolt heads based off their length not their numbers. If yours is .630 and you need 0.005" more to get into service you need to buy a ".635" bolt head" doesn't matter what the number is on it.
Using the primer trick will tell you how much more you need. The gauges arent a measuring tool the are a checking tool. They just tell you yes or no. You still need to use other methods to see how much more you less you need to be in spec. So shims or protruding primer will tell you that then after it's all figured out you can use the gauges again to confirm
A sack of bolt heads helps. Armourers had access to a large supply and could pick and choose. Trial and error.
If you stop and think about it, the case rim sits against the barrel face. When the bolt is closed,, there is a gap between the bolt face and the barrel face. This gap should be at least .064", and no more than .074". Less is better. That is why the military gauges are .064" and .074". Case rims should be at least .060". If they are thinner (which happens), headspace will be on the loose side, even if the rifle gauges within limits.
And, of course, bolt heads must turn in just past lining up with the bolt rib.
Your '43 accepts the .074" gauge. If you handload for it, this is irrelevant. Treat the cases as if rimless, and headspace on the shoulder. Never set the shoulder back any more than necessary for easy chambering. First firing of factory ammunition can be done with little rubber bands slipped onto the case. These will hold the rims back against the bolt face, and the cases will fireform.
Lee Enfields can be quirky.
If you stop and think about it, the case rim sits against the barrel face. When the bolt is closed,, there is a gap between the bolt face and the barrel face. This gap should be at least .064", and no more than .074". Less is better. That is why the military gauges are .064" and .074". Case rims should be at least .060". If they are thinner (which happens), headspace will be on the loose side, even if the rifle gauges within limits.
And, of course, bolt heads must turn in just past lining up with the bolt rib.
Your '43 accepts the .074" gauge. If you handload for it, this is irrelevant. Treat the cases as if rimless, and headspace on the shoulder. Never set the shoulder back any more than necessary for easy chambering. First firing of factory ammunition can be done with little rubber bands slipped onto the case. These will hold the rims back against the bolt face, and the cases will fireform.
Lee Enfields can be quirky.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
On a No. 4, you want the recoil load to be carried by the shoulder contact of the bolt head to the bolt body - so "clocking" the bolt becomes important - If you just slap in a replacement without checking anything, you can end up with the threads of the bolt or bolt head carrying the load - which will change fairly quickly.
Yeah the bolt head shouldn't over clock by more than 8* and if it under clocks you won't be able to close the bolt.
It is entirely possible to have 3 bolt heads that measure the correct length for your desired headspace but will not work due to clocking issues.
I don't have many no4's but I have loads of no1 rifles and earlier. I have a huge stash of bolt heads since the clock is more important than the head spacing in the grand scheme of things.
It is entirely possible to have 3 bolt heads that measure the correct length for your desired headspace but will not work due to clocking issues.
I don't have many no4's but I have loads of no1 rifles and earlier. I have a huge stash of bolt heads since the clock is more important than the head spacing in the grand scheme of things.
Bolt heads were fit to 7 degrees of overlock at the factory. Then in service they could wear in to 15 degrees. At some point in ww1 this was relaxed further. My memory fails me if it was 17 or 20 degrees, but not higher.
If your bolt head clocks past that, it would have been replaced in service.
Realistically though, unless very worn, most no4 bolt heads will clock ok in most bolts.
If your bolt head clocks past that, it would have been replaced in service.
Realistically though, unless very worn, most no4 bolt heads will clock ok in most bolts.
