I have been successfully reloading for various modern and some older milsurp bolt rifles that I own but just recently started reloading .303 cartridges for my two enfields, one a 1916 mk.3 and the other a 1942 no.4. After just two loads the no.4 has begun to separate shells at the base completely and my other rifle is showing hairline cracks in the same location on the cartridges. I've been recently made away that one can purchase thicker bolt heads to help mitigate this issue slightly. Does anyone know where someone might start looking for these? I'm local to Calgary, Alberta. Thanks in advance
Lee Enfield No.4 Headspace
- Thread starter K223
- Start date
Don't rush to conclusions. There's a good chance that your headspace is already within spec. Even if it isn't, what you have described is common in even properly headspaced Lee Enfields.
Case separations in Lee Enfields is usually the result of their typically oversized chambers allowing the brass to expand greatly upon firing, followed by the brass being sizing down fully in a F/L die. Even a couple of cycles of this can cause enough metal fatigue for the brass to fail.
The remedy is to neck-size, or partial F/L size your brass.
Case separations in Lee Enfields is usually the result of their typically oversized chambers allowing the brass to expand greatly upon firing, followed by the brass being sizing down fully in a F/L die. Even a couple of cycles of this can cause enough metal fatigue for the brass to fail.
The remedy is to neck-size, or partial F/L size your brass.
I've already started to neck size and I'm hoping that it will help, but as for the bolt head I've been able to shine a light into the bolt space and have seen a significant gap between the base and bolt head. I've also head of using rubber O rings to help hold the base back to "fool" the headspace so to speak, but I don't think that's the way I want to go
What brass are you using? PPU is thicker and may work better
I reload for my enfield#4 and #5 and have got 5 reloads on Winchester brass so far
Both my rifles show a protrusion (lump) on the fired cases on the bottom by the case head which I'm assuming is a wonky chamber
It's possible that your headspace is excessive you should get more then two uses out of a brass so something is amiss
I reload for my enfield#4 and #5 and have got 5 reloads on Winchester brass so far
Both my rifles show a protrusion (lump) on the fired cases on the bottom by the case head which I'm assuming is a wonky chamber
It's possible that your headspace is excessive you should get more then two uses out of a brass so something is amiss
Joe Amorosi
CGN Regular
- Location
- Not Where I Thought I Was....
Before you do anything, you should check the head space with the proper set of go, no-go gauges. Any gunsmith should be able to do it, most likely for free. He will be able to tell you what size bolt head you should use. If you need a #3, Good Luck....... They're out there but, they cost a small fortune.
+1 for what Andy said about neck sizing.
Mark your brass for each rifle and don't mix them up if you neck size only. Due to the difference in chamber size, the brass you fire in the No. 4 may not fit in your No. 1 and vice versa.
+1 for what Andy said about neck sizing.
Mark your brass for each rifle and don't mix them up if you neck size only. Due to the difference in chamber size, the brass you fire in the No. 4 may not fit in your No. 1 and vice versa.
Partially seat a primer. Close the bolt on the case. The amount the primer stands proud is your headspace. You can measure it with a caliper.
Using the rubber ring for the first shot and then neck sizing thereafter is the only way to go -regardless of headspace.
And don't load hot.
Using the rubber ring for the first shot and then neck sizing thereafter is the only way to go -regardless of headspace.
And don't load hot.
Joe Amorosi
CGN Regular
- Location
- Not Where I Thought I Was....
Listen to Ganderite..... he knows his stuff.
That's a neat trick with the partially seated primer. I'm going to try that one myself !
That's a neat trick with the partially seated primer. I'm going to try that one myself !
I have been using o rings for my no5 to fire form new brass. Works great. My no5 is close to max field..
So not to easy on brass. Found a no3 bolthead to close it up .009 (and it clocks properly!) after i go through this round of brass a few times. Gotta watch on ee parts section on here...deals to come up.
I used the primer trick to measure that headspace.
Also...i dont go full mulletard with loads either.
So not to easy on brass. Found a no3 bolthead to close it up .009 (and it clocks properly!) after i go through this round of brass a few times. Gotta watch on ee parts section on here...deals to come up.
I used the primer trick to measure that headspace.
Also...i dont go full mulletard with loads either.
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As has been said; nothing wrong with using o-rings. The o-ring holds the rim firmly against the bolt head and forces the body and neck to fill out into the chamber. What you get is a shell formed to your rifles chamber, bump back the neck and your brass will last longer becasue it's not being worked so much.
Lets see - both your rifles are showing headspace problems? Might want to rethink this one. Also, there is more to swapping bolt heads than just swapping. You should take the advice and partially resize, or neck size. I have numerous 303's. I partially resize my cases to fit the tightest chamber - this allows me to use the same brass in all rifles. I'm on to my fifth firing with some brass with no ill effect. The additional benefit to sizing the case tight in the chamber is better accuracy.
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