Lee Enfield No 4 Mk. 1 - Parker Hale (?) Conversion

D

Da Moose

CGN Regular
GunNutz
Rating - 100%
75   0   1
Location
Calgary
I test fired this rifle for a friend a week ago. At 50 metres, with a scope and shooting off a rest and a temperature about -10 degrees, 10 kmph crosswind, it was stringing upwards and to the left to 11 o'clock with 4 to 6 inches between (4) shots. There was probably 30 seconds between shots.

The scope was tight so it looks like the metal of the barrel was expanding and pressing against the wood of the shortened forend. Can these barrels be free floated or some other adjustment be made to fix the problem.
 
A #5 is free floating so a sporter should be set up the same way. Nothing bearing north of the knox. I am messing around with a #5 right now and am going to try a few different bedding set-ups just for fun.
 
A sportered Number 4 should be bedded tight around the action to the front end of the Knox-form, then floated ahead of that.

You will find that a 4-pound pressure point UPWARD at the front tip of the Forestock will VERY often improve shooting.
 
Well - In my experience, free floating a sported LE rarely increases accuracy. Au contraire, it leaves the fore end vulnerable to working loose - a common problem with sporters.
 
First thing I`d try, is shoot it on a calm day, with no crosswind.

I also found that upward pressure at the tip of the fore end usually gives the best results.
 
Floating a barrel, on any rifle, guarantees nothing.
First thing you need to do is slug the barrel. All Lee-Enfields(PK's are just sporterized battle rifles.) have the barrel inside diameter issue. They can measure between .311" and .315" and be considerd ok. Factory ammo and bullets for reloading come as .311" or .312". Not good out of a .313 + inch barrel. Then change ammo using a bullet that's as close to the ID as possible.
Sounds like you may have a bedding issue too though. So slug the barrel first, then loosen the stock screws and see if the barreled action 'rocks' or otherwise moves in the stock. If it does that needs to be removed by sanding. Then run a $5 bill under the forestock. If it goes all the way to the chamber area the barrel is floated. If it doesn't, you can try floating the barrel, but not all rifles like it. Sadly, the only way to find out is to try it. Putting a pressure point back in, if floating doesn't help, isn't hard. An inch diameter spot of bedding material about an inch or so from the end of the forestock will do it. Do not forget the release agent. There is no way of actually measuring the pressure at said spot.
And move out to 100. Shooting at 50 doesn't tell you much of anything.
 
Thanks Guys,
On inspecting it with a much smarter friend, the front guard screw bushing (#7) is missing so the whole thing is fitting a bit strangely. I'll try and find another bushing before doing anything else..
Dave
 
Gentlemen - Another member on Gunnutz supplied the part at no cost because the rifle is going to a friend's daughter is in the Canadian Forces. We finally got out yesterday and tested the rifle. I'm amazed at what a difference that one tiny piece made in the accuracy of this rifle. I haven't shot my L-E for years as it's awkward for a left-handed shooter but managed a a two inch group, pulled off to the left. My friend, who normally shoots a L-E as his primary hunting rifle managed a one inch group except for two shots pulled about an inch to the right. Obviously, our biggest issue now is trigger control. The new owner will have to adjust the scope get used to the trigger or get lightened up.
Thanks to everyone for your help and advice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom