Lee Enfield No.I Mk.III

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NeonKnight

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The No. I Mk.III is a gun which I'd really like to add my collection if the right rifle crossed my path. So I was looking to know a few things before I even considered actively looking for one.
1) What are some common problems with them?
2) What is the typical price of a full stock rifle (not sporterized)?
3) What specifics should I be looking for and checking when I find one?
4) What parts are commonly replaced?

Thanks for any help in advance!
 
Probably the biggest concern with the No1 is the draw area. A lot get caught out with this. Because it's an internal problem, the signs aren't always clearly visible and often sellers will go out of their way to conceal it. You don't want a rifle with busted draws so I would advise to go to Enfield specific forums and research this.
 
Are there many steps in the disassembly before you would be able to check this? I'd like to think a seller would let you check this before buying it
 
Typical signs are splits or cracks in the forend, most particularly one in front of the front trigger guard screw and a gap between the rear of the forend and its mating face of the butt socket. However, the problem may not have advanced to this level and only an internal inspection of the area would detect it. This of course means removing the forend. I doubt too many sellers would allow that.
It's really a #### situation
 
HarryD said:
Probably the biggest concern with the No1 is the draw area. A lot get caught out with this. Because it's an internal problem, the signs aren't always clearly visible and often sellers will go out of their way to conceal it. You don't want a rifle with busted draws so I would advise to go to Enfield specific forums and research this.
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I agree.

Many times this problem occurs with Lee Enfields stored butt down. The oils leak down and soaks into the stock in the area of the draws, softening the wood. Easy to detect (take the receiver out of the stock) and is fixable (drawing the oil out of the wood, cutting the draws square and bedding back to original profile).

Store your Lee Enfields muzzle down after cleaning and oiling.

Check that your purchase has the pieces for the safety and the rear sight elevator. I have often seen full wood guns at guns shows missing these. If you are looking for a representative gun only, don't be concerned with the bolt matching. Often bolts got swapped and as long as the headspace is ok you are good to go.


As for price, full stock No 1 prices have been creeping up. I would expect a good example to fetch up to $600.
 
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HarryD said:
Typical signs are splits or cracks in the forend, most particularly one in front of the front trigger guard screw and a gap between the rear of the forend and its mating face of the butt socket. However, the problem may not have advanced to this level and only an internal inspection of the area would detect it. This of course means removing the forend. I doubt too many sellers would allow that.
It's really a #### situation
Click to expand...

Really helpful, thanks! Being able to take it apart and actually inspect it would probably be a must for me to purchase one, wouldn't want to get caught out.
 
stampede said:
I agree.

Many times this problem occurs with Lee Enfields stored butt down. The oils leak down and soaks into the stock in the area of the draws, softening the wood. Easy to detect (take the receiver out of the stock) and is fixable (drawing the oil out of the wood, cutting the draws square and bedding back to original profile).

Store your Lee Enfields muzzle down after cleaning and oiling.

Check that your purchase has the pieces for the safety and the rear sight elevator. I have often seen full wood guns at guns shows missing these. If you are looking for a representative gun only, don't be concerned with the bolt matching. Often bolts got swapped and as long as the headspace is ok you are good to go.


As for price, full stock No 1 prices have been creeping up. I would expect a good example to fetch up to $600.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the cause! Would have naturally assumed to store it butt down if I owned one. Do you know off any other rifles that shouldn't be stored butt down? I'd be looking for a shooter so ideally id find a good condition all matching. Thanks alot for your input, extremely helpful!
 
I have a 1917 sporterized no1 mk3 that I'm thinking of selling. I have been told its one of the nicer sporterized some guys have seen but that's not going to go far on here. I just checked the bolt and the serials match. I'd have to look up the stamps on it to know where its from but Im wondering what the value would be? I also have a second mag I bought at a gun show and a firing pin removing tool that I bought aftermarket.
 
NeonKnight said:
Thanks for the info on the cause! Would have naturally assumed to store it butt down if I owned one. Do you know off any other rifles that shouldn't be stored butt down? I'd be looking for a shooter so ideally id find a good condition all matching. Thanks alot for your input, extremely helpful!
Click to expand...

The Enfield design is particularity prone to this because of the placement of the draws. I'm not sure about other rifles.
Muzzle down after cleaning and oiling for storage. After it has been allowed to drain for a day or so, butt down is OK.
 
This link below has some pretty good information for a quick check (whenever I look at a Enfield I do a quick look over this list to remember all the specific details). Prices won't be accurate for Canada but it does give a idea of what is more desirable and less desirable.

The biggest thing for me is if I was buying a No. 1 Mk. 3 or Mk. 3* I wouldn't buy one with a mismatched nose cap as it was likely restored. I got tricked into this myself when I bought my first and only No. 1 Mk. 3 (a 1912 BSA). Most people who restored the rifles tended to just slap the wood on and say its good instead of following the proper bedding procedure.

https://www.reddit.com/r/guns/comments/30za6h/last_ditch_mqc_beginners_guide_to_buying_a_lee/
 
Eaglelord17 said:
This link below has some pretty good information for a quick check (whenever I look at a Enfield I do a quick look over this list to remember all the specific details). Prices won't be accurate for Canada but it does give a idea of what is more desirable and less desirable.

The biggest thing for me is if I was buying a No. 1 Mk. 3 or Mk. 3* I wouldn't buy one with a mismatched nose cap as it was likely restored. I got tricked into this myself when I bought my first and only No. 1 Mk. 3 (a 1912 BSA). Most people who restored the rifles tended to just slap the wood on and say its good instead of following the proper bedding procedure.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, I'll start reading that tonight. Sucks that you got caught with that, but thanks for steering me clear!
 
stampede said:
The Enfield design is particularity prone to this because of the placement of the draws. I'm not sure about other rifles.
Muzzle down after cleaning and oiling for storage. After it has been allowed to drain for a day or so, butt down is OK.
Click to expand...

Great, thanks
 
Never try to take the butt stock off of a No.1 first. If it is original and has the square ended stock bolt and keeper plate that is a guaranteed way to split your fore stock.
Always remove the fore stock first, never pull down on the fore end but tap gently with a block at the rear of the receiver in the direction that it meets the butt socket.
Lou the Pou has a good sticky on what to look for when you are buying one.
If you are looking for a shooter there is nothing wrong with buying a restored one as long as it has been done correctly by someone that knows how to fit the wood and check for any problems with function.
 
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