Lee Enfield No4 Mk1 for $150. Should I buy it?

In my neck of the woods, sporterized rifles like that sell for $125. to $150. IF the serial numbers are matching, and it's mechanically sound, the headspace is OK, and there are no other flaws, then it's a fair deal, but nothing special.
 
Buy it and do the restoration. Then you have something that is truly yours, and you will gain a much higher knowledge of the rifle, plus an increased confidence in it. It is really worth while!
 
jonyork said:
What should I look for when I go see it? Any areas of specific concern?
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For a sporter, look at the bore and check condition. Is rifleing strong? A bit of frostyness or a little pitting is okay. General outside appearence will usually tell the story. All the working parts should be there.
For a rebuild, Numbers matching is nice (bolt and body mostly). No holes drilled on the receiver. No funny welds anywhere.
The list is long but that's a start.
I would at the least buy it for just parts myself.
 
I wouldn't give you $50 for a sportered No4 Mk1/1* or even a No4 Mk1/2 but would be happy to pay $150 for a sporterized No4 Mk1/3, they are not a common model, there are plenty of people out there looking for that elusive No4 Mk1/3
 
It's a No.4 Mk1/3 because it was a MkI* rifle, not a MkI. The MkI* applies to those Long Branch and Savage rifles that have the bolt head release via a slot near the breech rather than a catch at the back of their travel. Frankly it was not a good idea for the long term. The bolt head needs to have the edges of it's guide rail bevelled so they are less likely to smack the edges of the slot and tear them up. Once that happens, it's either a welding and filing job to fix it or you junk the rifle.

A Mk1/2 or Mk2 is a better choice IMO.

If you have a MkI* or a MkI/3 make sure the edges of the bolt head rail are well bevelled with a needle file so they will be less likely to tear up the edges of the slot.

If the bolt knob has a flat on it, it is probably original. If it is a full round knob then it is a post-war replacement bolt, either British or Belgian, though I think the Belgians did some with holes as well. Bolts were replaced during FTR if necessary.

The trigger guard is also a British replacement, but that's just part of the history.

A 1953 barrel should be excellent quality.

Probably the best all round rifle design ever. Not the strongest, but they didn't need to be. We're so used to them here we just don't appreciate them properly.
 
smellie said:
Friend, your rifle was built at Long Branch, Ontario (Toronto) during the Second World War. It was FTR'd at Fazakerley in England in 1953.

FTR is factory Thorough Repair: a complete REBUILD to whatever specifications existed at the time of the rebuild. The rifle was made NEW again and issued as such.

It then was removed from military service and sold off, likely without even having a shot fired through it. The FTR was done right after the Korean War ended, so likely your rifle served there. It would have been sold off only a few years later to make room in the arsenals for the new L1 semi-auto rifle: the FN-FAL as it started off.

During the FTR, it was upgraded from a Number 4 Mark 1* to a Number 4 Mark 1/3. The modification included welding a hanger onto the bottom of the Body (receiver or frame) of the rifle and the Trigger hung from this hanger. Once this modification was done, the Trigger was SET and it STAYED set. The original trigger was pinned to the Triggerguard and diffeences in how you screwed-in the Triggerguard Screw at the front could make a difference to your trigger pull. So could changes in the weather. The 1/3 (pronounced "one-three") trigger is FAR better and was pretty much the final word in the upgrading of this design...... which started in 1879!

You HAVE an excellent barreled action which has NOT been messed with and you HAVE a barrel which has not been chopped. If you want a rifle for hunting, you can scope this one with a NO-GUNSMITHING mount and still have a restorable World War Two/Korean War rifle.

To RESTORE it to its original appearance, you need complete SUIT of wood:Butt, Forestock, Rear Handguard and Front Handguard, a Band with Sling Swiel and Screw and a Front Band with Screw. These parts are, for the most part, available through Trade-Ex (gray link at 10 o'clock from the world-famous CGN Beaver at the top of this page) at relatively reasonable prices. Alternately, there are several Members on here who might have the part you require. Trade-Ex wants $6.75 each for the Handguards, Butts generally go for about $25; the Forestock is the scarce one and the expensive one.

But what is essentially a NEW rifle for $150.

It it popped up in MY backyard, it wouldn't have a chance to escape!

BTW, zip up to the Military Knowledge Library in the Stickies at the Index to this forum, take the link and download yourself a copy of SHOOT TO LIVE! It i the Canadian marksmanship course from WW2 and it is the best single book ever done on learning to shoot an iron-sighted military rifle. And, best of all, it is written roun YOUR exact rifle! For geeral maintenance instructions and section views, download a copy of "Rifle - 1942" which has it all.

Good luck..... and have fun.

Hope this helps.
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SHOOT TO LIVE! Wasn't that once named SHOOT TO KILL!?
 
Yes. When I joined the British Army I found their "Shoot To Kill" marksmanship training program very familiar. Apart from the name and a few changes in the vernacular, it was what I had experienced in the militia here as "Shoot To Live."
 
Buy it,Buy it,buy it.Looks like it is all there except for the wood and a few of the bands and other minor bits.For that price plus maybe another $200 more you have a restored WW2 rifle for 1 to 2 hundred less than buying a complete one,unless you are lucky and find a guy that just wants to get rid of one.Buy one that has had a bit bobbed off the barrel and look at maybe another $500 to correct that problem.Would I buy it?Hell Yeah.
 
Considering some of the outlandish prices sellers have been asking lately for their sporters, $150 is a fair and decent price for your example...
 
Save this gun immediately. It looks like a full barrel with bayonet lugs. You can restore it back to its glory. I have a similiar project on the go and the price to get it back to orginal wood is almost the same price as the rifle. For me you have found gold because the barrel hasn't been messed up. Save an Enfield and feel good about being Canadian :)

Tell the seller that you intend on restoring her and if he was a true Canadian he would knock 25 bucks off so you afford some of the parts ;) If you don't restore it 25 bucks won't last long with commercial 303 prices.
 
jonyork said:
So the guy sold the rifle 1 hour before I was going to meet him *Grumbles*

Anyone know where to get a Lee Enfield?
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Yeah in my safe!!!;)

All kidding aside, now you know and will be ready when the next one to comes your way! Keep an eye on the EE I'm sure you'll find one. Another way is to post a local add and as I always do ask old timers you know who hunt or shoot, lots of them have a dusty Enfield Sporter that's just ready to be bought for a good price! My no1 mk3 Sporter was bought from a guy at work for $100. He even through in 2 boxes of ammo, a sling, 80 pieces of brass and a spare clip. Deals are out there you just have to jump on them when they come your way!

Happy hunting!
 
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