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shortandlong

shortandlong

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hey guys I figured i would post these
the SMLE is still in progress ex sporter (thanks for the stock Ken)PM if you have parts for it and if anyone has any UFI info let me know.

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notice the markings on the trigger BTW barrel reciever and bolt match

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can someone tell me if this is the proper butt for this rifle?

no31-1.jpg


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and here is my no 5
I stripped the varnish off and refinished with linseed and replaced the no 4 sight it came with with a proper no 5 sight

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Why would you strip off the original finish of such a nice looking rifle? It's like removing any historical or collectable value. I can see giving weapons a good cleaning but never re finish.
 
the stock of the jungle carbine was pretty banged up and looked bad I ironed alot out of it there was no white markings on it or i would not have done it I didn't touch the barrel or reciever ......still green under there
 
Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year for life, looks like a good start on the No5. The BSA is looking really nice, I have no idea if that's the correct stock but it looks really nice for a 90 plus year old service rifle, that probably served in at least one World War, and probably trailed around the Empire. Gonna have to get a First War vet.
 
Watch the thin spot at the back of the fore-end, where the trigger mech fits in and connects to the trigger mounted on the triggerguard. It is really thin here and they crack at this point, which makes them shoot all over the place. IF yours cracks, an Acra-Glas fix will restore it to shooting condition with no loss of your original accuracy. Just a point to watch for on all SMLEs.

Properly glass-bedded, it is little short of amazing what some of these old-timers can do, and that's with original issue iron sights. And some of them were pretty darned good to start with. I have a completely original 1918 National that will do consistent 1-inch at 100 and a 1918 Lithgow that will do better than that, although the Lithgow required serious attention.

You are doing a great-looking job on these critters. Give yourself a pat on the back if nobody else does; you've earned it.
 
smellie said:
Watch the thin spot at the back of the fore-end, where the trigger mech fits in and connects to the trigger mounted on the triggerguard. It is really thin here and they crack at this point, which makes them shoot all over the place. IF yours cracks, an Acra-Glas fix will restore it to shooting condition with no loss of your original accuracy. Just a point to watch for on all SMLEs.
Click to expand...

Good point! Got any pics to detail this operation? I've got a '42 litgow that is magnificent aside from the crack...:(
 
My '42 Lithgow is still a work in progress, I need someone to index the barrel properly, headspace, make a pin for the rear sight (going with a windage and elevation adjustable one) and figure out how to get the replacement buttstock off of there, it's on there good I was stupid enough to tap it in there with a wood club.
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junkman said:
Why would you strip off the original finish of such a nice looking rifle? It's like removing any historical or collectable value. I can see giving weapons a good cleaning but never re finish.
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wood has to be protected, not varnishing. Plus I am sure it looks better with new finish. If your #5 is not a safe queen then re-finishing is just another part of taking care of your gun.
mewithJChuntin.jpg
 
smellie said:
Watch the thin spot at the back of the fore-end, where the trigger mech fits in and connects to the trigger mounted on the triggerguard. It is really thin here and they crack at this point, which makes them shoot all over the place.
Click to expand...

Very true, and if I can add one point to that: If your main forestock moves back and forth in the action (when it isn't screwed down), you will need to add shims to either the rear of the forestock where it contacts the butt socket, or in the sear mount lugs. A tight rear draws area on the forestock will put the proper amount of upwards pressure on the forestock where it touches the end of the barrel.

Use raw linseed oil to soak the inner parts of the stock, and finish everything off with boiled linseed oil.

The Brits and the Americans both used Linseed Oil on their Enfields, so you won't be detracting the value at all, no matter what the purists tell you. Linseed Oil preserves the wood.

Good info here.
 
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