Lee Enfield Restoration

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Speedyelwood

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$I just sent in my application for a minor's firearms license, I thought about celebrating by restoring my Dad's good old number 4.
It's has no wood above the barrel, and about 11-12" of wood from the magazine. The rear section of stock is original. It has the brass butt-plate, and a burn mark from when it was left against a lamp when my Dad was a kid.f:P:2:
So where do I start? I don't know which part of the rifle is the serialized part, so I don't want to post any number's stamped onto the rifle.
There's a gun show that comes to Brandon every year, and I think I'll buy a complete wood kit there. I would rather keep the original stock.
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Speedyelwood said:
I just sent in my application for a minor's firearms license, I thought about celebrating by restoring my Dad's good old number 4.
It's has no wood above the barrel, and about 11-12" of wood from the magazine. The rear section of stock is original. It has the brass butt-plate, and a burn mark from when it was left against a lamp when my Dad was a kid.f:P:2:
So where do I start? I don't know which part of the rifle is the serialized part, so I don't want to post any number's stamped onto the rifle.
There's a gun show that comes to Brandon every year, and I think I'll buy a complete wood kit there. I would rather keep the original stock.
Click to expand...

You are off to a good start to restoring your family No.4 to original condition. The good news is the bayonette lugs are intact. Chances are the butt has been sanded and will also need to be replaced. There are two serial numbers on No.4 parts - on the left wall of the butt socket, and on the back surface of the bolt handle. They should match ... What is marked on the left sidewall of the receiver?

If your rifle has a matching bolt and the full length barrel, but the foreend is short, I'd suggest you need a butt, butt plate and two screws, a rear sling swivel and screws, a foreend, rear handguard, handguard ring, front handguard, middle band and screw, front band and screw, and very likely the front sight ears. New or used parts? Matched makers to arsenal? Your choice dependinh on how much you need to make the rifle original.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
You are off to a good start to restoring your family No.4 to original condition. The good news is the bayonette lugs are intact. Chances are the butt has been sanded and will also need to be replaced. There are two serial numbers on No.4 parts - on the left wall of the butt socket, and on the back surface of the bolt handle. They should match ... What is marked on the left sidewall of the receiver?

If your rifle has a matching bolt and the full length barrel, but the foreend is short, I'd suggest you need a butt, butt plate and two screws, a rear sling swivel and screws, a foreend, rear handguard, handguard ring, front handguard, middle band and screw, front band and screw, and very likely the front sight ears. New or used parts? Matched makers to arsenal? Your choice dependinh on how much you need to make the rifle original.
Click to expand...
The bolt and the butt socket match. It's numbered H1**. The rifle has no markings on the side wall of the receiver. A few things are stamped onto the part that connects the barrel to the reciever. They are:
-A crown marker BNP. I understand this is a British Armourer's marking?
There;s one on the barrel and where the chamber would be.
-18.5 tons per []"
-Under that is some crossed swords looking thing,
- the numbers 303
-2.222"
On the right side of the barrel:
-An odd looking 7
-Two N's interlocked with a small symbol above it
-one oriental symbol
-another oriental symbol

on the butt socket it's marked 1942. It's got the front sight hood too.
 
Good for you, Sir, you have a nice project ahead of you. Read a lot, ask questions, take it one step at a time. (a few tips in the link below)

Lou
 
You've got a British Maltby sporterized by Parker Hale. This was a base model where they simply took like new components or rifles and turned them into sporters. This is a big plus for restoration projects as the rifles generally are all numbers matched and headspace , parts condition are excellent. You should look for Britsh marked wood/components for your project. Pay a little more and get like new parts/wood if the budget allows. It will save you a lot of work especially on the wood.

Keep us posted on your project.
 
Speedyelwood said:
The bolt and the butt socket match. It's numbered H1**. The rifle has no markings on the side wall of the receiver. A few things are stamped onto the part that connects the barrel to the reciever. They are:
-A crown marker BNP. I understand this is a British Armourer's marking?
There;s one on the barrel and where the chamber would be.
-18.5 tons per []"
-Under that is some crossed swords looking thing,
- the numbers 303
-2.222"
On the right side of the barrel:
-An odd looking 7
-Two N's interlocked with a small symbol above it
-one oriental symbol
-another oriental symbol

on the butt socket it's marked 1942. It's got the front sight hood too.
Click to expand...

The No.4 rifle normally had the serial number stamped on the left side of the receiver.
Some of those stampings you quote:
BNP is British Nitro Proof and it has been proved at 18.5 tons pressure per square inch which if it wasn't marked at manufacture would have been done when it was sold surplus. As is normal with civilian guns, too, the calibre is stamped on it - 303 with the overall cartridge length, 2.222" .
 
I did the same thing with my dad's Longbranch #4 Mk1*; it was also the first rifle I ever owned. It's one of my favorites, I will never part with this one!
 
Well, replacing the butt stock might be an idea, but if you're keeping it, then you're left with just the fore wood and bands and such. Others have listed what you'll need.

Now, for the fun bit. Somewhere on this forum are the armourers instructions for properly replacing and bedding wood on no4 rifles to get the best accuracy from them. It's darn complex, and something akin to wizardry, but if you follow the instructions you'll get a frighteningly accurate rifle.

So, anyone remember where those armourers instructions for bedding enfields went? Can't seem to find them.

Here's a little bit:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531167&highlight=enfield+bedding

Here's a bit more, mostly same info, but with some other stuff
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=523705&highlight=enfield+bedding

And a bit more:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=449943&highlight=enfield+bedding

I guess that should keep you busy for a while. Get good wood, matching is always nice. Add some metal parts and you're off to the races.
Also, don't let someone scam you into paying too much for stuff - there's a shortage of original wood, but marstar's bringing in a ton of it eventually... it's on the slow boat from Greece, so worry not!
 
ALL firearms that are commercially sold in the UK must have been proofed at one of two authorised gun proof houses, Birmingham or London. This includes ALL SOOS [sold out of service] firearms of the Empire and Commonwealth, like yours.

Exceptions are firearms manufactured in the countries that are modern signaturees to the CIP agenda - 'Commission Internationale Permanente pour l'Epreuve des Armes à Feu Portatives.'

These countries, listed below, have reciprocal acceptance of each other's systems of gun proof -

The (2010) C.I.P. member states are:

Austria
Belgium
Chile
Czech Republic
Finland
France
Germany
Hungary
Italy
Russia
Slovakia
Spain
United Arab Emirates
United Kingdom

You will notice that the USA does not figure in that list.

...anyhow, theTooner has given the straight dope there.

tac
 
It appears that the only thing you need is a complete stock set. You can scour the web for the individual pieces, which probably won't match. Or...much easier, you could buy a complete No4 and use it's stock parts. Then you you could sell the left over parts individually and likely recover most if not all of the cost of buying a second No.4. If you wait until bill C19 is finally passed, you don't even have to worry about registration. Good luck with your project. :popCorn:
 
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