I picked up a new for stock for my no5 and now when I go to close the bolt it wont ####, it just barely catches and then fires. From what I can tell, it looks like the trigger assembley/guard needs to be "deeper" , for lack of a better word lol, in the stock. Should I remove some material to change the angle? or is there something else I can do.
Lee Enfield stock replacement issues
- Thread starter leeaspell
- Start date
Ganderite, you should go a bit further. There is a "king screw" at the front of the trigger guard/mag well. There should be a spacer in there that you tighten the king screw against with just enough force to keep the action firm in the stock and the bed of the receiver press tight agains the ways and the butt socket. This will effect the engagement of the sear on the bolt if it's to long. Maybe the king screw placer was relaced with one that is a bit to long? A few swipes with a file should fix that. Be very careful though, because that can also have a nasty effect on the rest of the bedding.
The rear of the trigger guard is hell in place by a small bolt that hold the trigger guard to the receiver. It shouldn't be a problem. If your problem is wood, remove it from the trigger guard recess, rather than the receiver bedding area.
For some reason, it doesn't sound like you sear is making prober contact. I've had to replace the sear on more than one Lee Enfield that some enterprising fellow had removed material from the sear to reduce trigger creep and hope to reduce the weight of the trigger.
It's possible that your wood isn't made to spec but if it's from an issued rifle, I doubt it.
The rear of the trigger guard is hell in place by a small bolt that hold the trigger guard to the receiver. It shouldn't be a problem. If your problem is wood, remove it from the trigger guard recess, rather than the receiver bedding area.
For some reason, it doesn't sound like you sear is making prober contact. I've had to replace the sear on more than one Lee Enfield that some enterprising fellow had removed material from the sear to reduce trigger creep and hope to reduce the weight of the trigger.
It's possible that your wood isn't made to spec but if it's from an issued rifle, I doubt it.
Remove your new fore stock and reinstall the trigger guard, bushing/collar and trigger guard screws and test your trigger. The thickness of the wood between the bottom of the receiver and the trigger guard has a plus and minus range. If the wood is too thick it will change the angle of the trigger guard and it will be too high. An older fore stock with wood crush will make the trigger guard too low. This is the reason the trigger was moved on the Mk.2 to prevent the trigger from binding or be out of adjustment range due to the trigger guard angle.
With the fore stock installed and the rear trigger guard screw in place the trigger guard should drop/fall into place and be touching the bushing/collar. If downward force is needed to make the trigger guard touch the bushing/collar you have wood binding the trigger guard and it must be removed.
This can also be caused by the wood being too tight in the draws area and the rear of the stock not dropping down far enough and not being in the correct position. (rear of stock is too high)
Is the "new" fore stock brand new and never been fitted before or is the "new" stock actually an older used fore stock?
The No.5 has a free floating barrel but bedding points "A" throught "D" still apply.
With the fore stock installed and the rear trigger guard screw in place the trigger guard should drop/fall into place and be touching the bushing/collar. If downward force is needed to make the trigger guard touch the bushing/collar you have wood binding the trigger guard and it must be removed.
This can also be caused by the wood being too tight in the draws area and the rear of the stock not dropping down far enough and not being in the correct position. (rear of stock is too high)
Is the "new" fore stock brand new and never been fitted before or is the "new" stock actually an older used fore stock?
The No.5 has a free floating barrel but bedding points "A" throught "D" still apply.
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Please dont sacrifice me to the milsurp gods, but its an ATI plastic stock
. I just wnat to keep the origanal wood good and I like the fact it has a place I can mount a bi-pod to for coyotes. The whole stock all around is Very tight. I have to smack the mag to get it in with the ati, with origanal wood I just push firmly. The origanal wood is also loose. If I hold it by the fore stock and shack it you can hear and feel the reciever and barrel move.
Remove your new fore stock and reinstall the trigger guard, bushing/collar and trigger guard screws and test your trigger. The thickness of the wood between the bottom of the receiver and the trigger guard has a plus and minus range. If the wood is too thick it will change the angle of the trigger guard and it will be too high. An older fore stock with wood crush will make the trigger guard too low. This is the reason the trigger was moved on the Mk.2 to prevent the trigger from binding or be out of adjustment range due to the trigger guard angle.
With the fore stock installed and the rear trigger guard screw in place the trigger guard should drop/fall into place and be touching the bushing/collar. If downward force is needed to make the trigger guard touch the bushing/collar you have wood binding the trigger guard and it must be removed.
This can also be caused by the wood being too tight in the draws area and the rear of the stock not dropping down far enough and not being in the correct position. (rear of stock is too high)
Is the "new" fore stock brand new and never been fitted before or is the "new" stock actually an older used fore stock?
The No.5 has a free floating barrel but bedding points "A" throught "D" still apply.
Please dont sacrifice me to the milsurp gods, but its an ATI plastic stock
. I just wnat to keep the origanal wood good and I like the fact it has a place I can mount a bi-pod to for coyotes. The whole stock all around is Very tight. I have to smack the mag to get it in with the ati, with origanal wood I just push firmly. The origanal wood is also loose. If I hold it by the fore stock and shack it you can hear and feel the reciever and barrel move.
