LEE Perfect Powder Measure

My friend has the RCBS one and I the Lee.
The only way I see that the RCBS is better is that it's made of metal and is sturdier so when you make a throw with it, you can be a little more consistant as there's less flex in the frame. When I use my Lee, as has already been mentioned I have to make a little more effort to make the same movement each time. Not sure if this is clear to someone that's never used one, but it's really not a big deal once you've got the hang of it. Static is also a concern, but bounce does cure it.
 
Once I set up the Lee, I put my RCBS away, and have not used it since. Quite consistent, and no problems to date. I now use my RCBS Chargemaster combo for anything I want zero variation for. Regards, Eagleye.
 
The leakage can be adjusted by tightening drum screw. Just take it a part, clean it up, retied the screw so there is no gap and the problem is solved. Works wit every powder.
Vic
 
BCFred said:
Have to admit that I have gone back to using the little yellow measures from Lee and a stainless trickler I used to use in chemistry. Works for me...;)
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I bought a set of the Lee powder dippers, but have yet to use them. What's the verdict on these?
 
stevebc said:
I bought a set of the Lee powder dippers, but have yet to use them. What's the verdict on these?
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what's to know- they're a bunch of scoops- use a wide mouth container, run the scoop through the powder once, level it off with a ruler or card or something, and verify the first couple of times with a scale to see what they actually throw- once you've done that, go ahead and use it- i've found them to be a little light for the powders listed, but going to the next sized scoop up in the same powder can put you into an OVERLOAD condition- hence, the need for verifing with a scale
 
Bought a PPM years ago, when I wasn't sure if reloading was for me (cheap). Still use it a lot, if it breaks I'd buy another.
 
I started using my dippers years ago when I was loading stick powders and got a bit sick of the crunching in conventional powder dispensers. There was a dipper that gave an amount close to the amount of powder I wanted. So, I tried it and found I was a bit quicker and more accurate using them. (The data that comes with the set is quite useful in telling you which dispenser to use with which powder.) I don't, however, just use the dippers themselves. I pour the powder from the dipper into the pan on my digital scale and trickle the rest of the powder in by hand to make the load I want. (I use a metal trickler I got in chemistry more years ago than I care to remember to do this. But one can make a variety of v-shaped things to help...or...gasp...one could even buy a trickler. One exception to all this is that I sometimes use my powder dispensers when I am loading some ball powders, which I can dispense with very good accuracy, plus or minus 0.1grain, without trickling powder to make the load up. On the other hand, another thing I think is probably true is that the accuracy I'm going for is probably not necessary for most applications. Using the dippers themselves, providing you did it properly, would result in perfectly acceptable loads for most purposes. I found that I could be quite accurate with them with a bit of practice, e.g. plus or minus 0.3 g, using stick powders like 4350 etc.
 
I ran some graphite through it and it jammed. I took it apart and put it back together and has worked well. Careful and consistant hand motions results in measures with big stick powders that are within 5 sticks,most much closer. So I don't understand this thing about how easy ball powders measure,in fact I find them messy.So I see no reason to buy a expensive one that likely won't do as well.
 
I've been using mine for a decade and it is excellent.

I've also found it to be very consistent. I weigh every charge, so I've had a great deal of opportunity to see how consistently it throws charges. I figure it's about as good as you can expect from a manual powder dispenser.

I just throw a charge and weigh it, each and every time (I'm a competitive shooter). As Mystic says, if you keep the hopper above 1/3 full, I find that most of the time the charge it throws is right on the money. Sometimes its about 3-5 kernels short or heavy, in which case I either put in or take out a couple of kernels to get the exact charge. But that's generally about the extent of its variation, which is not bad.

Probably the best deal for the money.
 
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Sorry about the delay in responding,,Thank you for all of your oppinions, they've been helpful..I decided to order one, it's just going to be used to build loads so, what the hell.

So how does the bounce thing work?
 
The 'bounce' thing is those little sheets that you throw in washing when you are drying in order to soften cloths and take the static away. I get my wife to save them after she has done the drying or I activate one by running it in the dryer for awhile. Then I rub it on the things I want to take static away from, e.g. powder containers on my dispensers, the insides of shot shells and so on. I've actually got into the habit of throwing one or two in bags of shotshells I am saving, seems to help with static.
 
I have the Lee but I weigh EVERY charge if you don't plan on weighting charges get the more expensive models Redding BR3 maybe the Lyman 55. They throw more consistent charges.

one other hint is to make sure the powder level in the cylinder is within a range (you will have to figure out what range works for your PPM)

If you fill the column to the top it will throw more powder then if it were 1/3 full.
Both the Lyman and Redding have a baffle that is used to keep the powder level the same even when topped up. if you go below the baffle your charges will be different from the charges thrown when the powder was equal to or over the baffle
you can see the baffle in the column

powdmeas.jpg


Thanks
Trevor
 
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I like my Lee. I used a Forster Bonanza at some time and it was better but since I was missing many bushings, I stopped using it and I don't mind. When you compare how much equipment Lee gives you for your money . You feel like you've been had when you buy from the so called big names. The best example is the Lee Load All. For $60 a hunter is getting everything he needs. The only thing I can't stand from Lee is their line of pogressive machines. I ended up buying a Dillon 550 for my pistol reloading after swearing a bit too much with my Pro 1000.

The guys who complain all the time about Lee should in fact bless the company : how much the RCBS and Dillon of this world would sell their equipment is Lee wasn't there !

Getting back to the question :rolleyes: adjustments take more time with Lee but it is irrelevant for a powder measure you don't adjust very open. As for the static, you now the answer (I didn't when I started and I tried all kind of things . The best one was soapy water )
BTW, as far as I know, the "Bounce" is also the best thing to clean the media in your tumbler.
 
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johnnyreb65 said:
Looking into getting a secondary powder measure for building loads..Anyone here have any oppinions on the Lee Perfect Powder measure?
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Feh ! that piece of junk couldn't throw an accurate charge if your life depended on it ! I went with the lyman 55 for my manual and the chargemaster setup for my "i'm in a hurry and don't have the time t pi$$ around " dispenser. I had the lee , it blew apart nicely at 100 yards as my .300 win mag bullet hit it :)
 
The real secret for any powder measure is your hand motion,consistant with same pauses at the ends.Graphite is said to help ,too.The density of your powder is going to be different than the book says,too, so you will have to adjust a bit.
 
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