Lee Precision Melter question

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Loki610

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I tried casting today for the first time with this pot, ambient temperature was around 0C. I melted the lead initially on high setting then turned pot down to about 4.2, added about 1 tsp of flux (paraffin wax) made sure the alloy was clean and warmed mold and tools. When I was looking at the bullets I made I see folds and ripples through the sides which I take it to mean the lead/mold wasn't hot enough. In the end I only kept about 100 which was roughly half my production!
So I guess the question would be what temp setting does everyone else use with this pot? If I get a lead thermometer what temp would be ideal?
 
Did you dip the tip of the bullet mold in the lead to get it warm.If your mold is to cold it dosn't matter hot hot the lead is it will still make poor bullets.
 
The Lee melter heat settings are not really measurable or comparable even between different melters of the same model. an 8 On mine might be a 7 on yours for temp etc. If you want you can get a thermometer to measure the lead temp from another maker then consistently use the same setting that works for you. Theres a lot of info about this and other casting subjects on the Cast Boolits forum.

That said I would guess you will need it set around 7 or so to cast. Likely your lead was not hot enough in the pot.

I have had good results just running the pot around 6-8 temp setting for my casting without the use of a thermometer.
 
It can be a real PITA to cast in cooler temps and even more so if there are any drafts or variations.

Have you scanned any of the casting forums? Lots and lots of really good specific info there.
 
Raton57 said:
Did you dip the tip of the bullet mold in the lead to get it warm.If your mold is to cold it dosn't matter hot hot the lead is it will still make poor bullets.
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yes I had it resting on top and then dipped it before casting, it was hot enough the lead wasn't sticking to it. This was also a brand new Lee 6 cavity mold for .38 special
Have to look up this cast boolit forum, I'm new to this hobby!
 
Use a hotplate to preheat your mold, wrinkles means the mold is not hot enough, frosting means that things are too hot. Aluminum molds heat and cool quicker then brass or iron, so they get up to heat faster, they also require a proper cadence of casting to maintain a very small temp. range that produces good bullets.
 
Hi Loki:

Temperature can be easily checked with the new-fangled infra-red remote readers. You can get one of these pretty cheaply in Canadian Tire.

The next thing to check is that your mould is free from oil or coatings. Give it a wash in soapy hot water...dry it, then use a wooden match to smoke (carbon) the cavities. I hope this helps...
 
If you pick up your pouring speed you should be able to maintain quality, a 6 cavity mold has to take more time than a 2 cavity mold and once you get going keep pouring... you are on a roll.....w:h:
 
Arctichunter said:
Hi Loki:

Temperature can be easily checked with the new-fangled infra-red remote readers. You can get one of these pretty cheaply in Canadian Tire.

The next thing to check is that your mould is free from oil or coatings. Give it a wash in soapy hot water...dry it, then use a wooden match to smoke (carbon) the cavities. I hope this helps...
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Yup i think a dirty mold was part of the problem, I'll try cleaning it and coating it tomorrow before I try again.
 
Loki610 said:
So I guess the question would be what temp setting does everyone else use with this pot? If I get a lead thermometer what temp would be ideal?
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If you mean thermostat setting, I use Number 7.5 to refine raw Wheel weights and pour into ingot molds....muffin pans.

I don't know the actual temperature in Centigrade or Fahrenheit of this setting but I know it melts the WW quicker than when thermostat is at 6.

For more information, check out the Castboolits forum.

Anyways, for bullet pouring, I melt ingots at #7.5, then pour into bullet molds at this setting until the mold has heated up. Soon as the wrinkles disappear, I reduce to #6.

I usually gauge proper pouring temperature by the finish on the bullets. Shiney bullets with nice detail i.e., lube grooves and bullet shoulders are sharp, no obvious voids means the mold and lead at the right temp. Frosty bullets mean lead temp is too high.

Try to keep the melt level high by putting in an ingot soon as you got space in the pot. This way, temperature recovery is faster than if you let the pot empty before refilling.

Another thing. If the melt is too cold, the bottom spout tends to clog. This is another reason to keep the pot as full as you can. Use 1 to 1.5 lb ingot molds, so that adding a cold ingot will not cool the melt as much as a large ingot. Preheating ingots on top of the pot is a good idea as well.
 
x2 on the oily mold. Lee molds need a good scrub and sometimes a polish before they will fill properly. The six cavity ones are better though in my experience. I think every melter will be set different to get the right temp. My 4-20 drip-o-matic is making frosties by #6 on the dial.
 
x3 on oily/dirty mold.

Before every casting session I scrub insides of mold with old toothbrush and water with dish detergent.
After cleaning I use another toothbrush and scrub mold under tap water to get rid of anything left inside ( pay attention to venting lines).

After cleaning dry it very well with hair dryer and you are good to go.
 
ben hunchak said:
Use a hotplate to preheat your mold, wrinkles means the mold is not hot enough, frosting means that things are too hot. Aluminum molds heat and cool quicker then brass or iron, so they get up to heat faster, they also require a proper cadence of casting to maintain a very small temp. range that produces good bullets.
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kjohn said:
Ben!!! Are you alright??:confused::p
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Listen to Ben - it's a mold that's not warm enough that's the issue. A hotplate, torch (carefully), or dipping a corner into molten lead speed up the process, but it can take 10-20 pours before the mold's hot enough. A good sign that you're there (besides nice bullets) is it taking 2-3 seconds for the sprue to harden.

Oh - and Lee melters and molds are crap....................:rolleyes:
 
Andy said:
Listen to Ben - it's a mold that's not warm enough that's the issue. A hotplate, torch (carefully), or dipping a corner into molten lead speed up the process, but it can take 10-20 pours before the mold's hot enough. A good sign that you're there (besides nice bullets) is it taking 2-3 seconds for the sprue to harden.

Oh - and Lee melters and molds are crap....................:rolleyes:
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They are only crap if you dont follow the instructions. They are a bit different to use then other molds but if you follow the provided instructions, they are excellent.
Using Lee 6 cavity molds, I cast over 2000 bullets on saturday afternoon.
 
punkrockboy said:
They are only crap if you dont follow the instructions. They are a bit different to use then other molds but if you follow the provided instructions, they are excellent.
Using Lee 6 cavity molds, I cast over 2000 bullets on saturday afternoon.
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I agree - you needed to be on the inside of that comment. I use many types, and Lee are not the "best" for sure, but good enough, and can be credited with getting people casting in the first place, to the point where they will use other molds - Lyman, RCBS, NOE, MiHec, Mountain Molds, etc.
 
Well it was too cold to try today (-17c) but I did get the mold clean by scrubbing with hot soapy water, cleaning with alcohol and then smoking. I'll give it a try next warmer day.
 
Andy said:
Listen to Ben - it's a mold that's not warm enough that's the issue. A hotplate, torch (carefully), or dipping a corner into molten lead speed up the process, but it can take 10-20 pours before the mold's hot enough. A good sign that you're there (besides nice bullets) is it taking 2-3 seconds for the sprue to harden.

Oh - and Lee melters and molds are crap....................:rolleyes:
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Calm down. I was just taking a lighthearted poke at Ben. He can usually be counted on to downplay Lee stuff. I use Lee molds and melters exclusively, but always read his posts about other brands and types.

If I get the mold clean to start with, cleaning prior to use might consist of a quick scrub with a toothbrush, smoking the insides with a match, and pour away. Ben is absolutely dead on when he talks about a cadence. If I am casting with a one or two-holer, I often have two or three molds on the go. I have cast a gazillion bullets with tumble lube molds in .38, 9mm, and .45 ACP. There are those times, though, when nothing seems to work right, so I switch to a "wheel weight melt".:p
 
Love lee 6 cav molds, X2 on scrub with detergent and toothbrush. I never smoke. Pre-heat 6 cav on top of electrice fce, then dip mold edge,then sprue plate for a full 60 seconds, then good bullets will fly out of your mold. Have fun.
 
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