That might be, but the anti-bottom pour group seems to transcend the LEE hurtle. There's some super experienced shooters that swear they can't use a bottom pour to save their life. Others don't even own a ladle .
Lee Pro 4-20
- Thread starter Dsiwy
- Start date
My issues with a bottom pour pot is simply the bullet quality is not there compared to ladle casting with the heavy bullets above 400 grains. Lighter bullets no problem.
What I get is a rough surface with a sort of multi colored finish, almost like the lead hardened in layers.
The weight is consistent, but about 5 grains lighter than ladle poured.
I have drilled out the valve a bit bigger, which helps, but still not as good as I would like.
To be honest, if you don't shoot long range with heavy bullets, or care about accuracy too much, there should be no problem with rough bullets.
I just want the best bullets I can make, and they have to be ladle cast.
What I get is a rough surface with a sort of multi colored finish, almost like the lead hardened in layers.
The weight is consistent, but about 5 grains lighter than ladle poured.
I have drilled out the valve a bit bigger, which helps, but still not as good as I would like.
To be honest, if you don't shoot long range with heavy bullets, or care about accuracy too much, there should be no problem with rough bullets.
I just want the best bullets I can make, and they have to be ladle cast.
I have two Pro 4's that have seen a lot of WW. I use the older one mostly for melting WW and making ingots. As most have said, no trouble with either, other than an occasional drip. A couple of twists on the valve and away they go.
I also have a new 20 that has been hidden away after 4 moves. Do the older ones, say 15 or 20 years old, have an adjustable pour rate? I still have dug it out from the rubble.
I have never owned a ladle suitable for pouring. I keep my methods very simple. Pro pot(s), all but one Lee molds, Lee Alox and some kind of blue lube for higher speed rifle, an old spoon for stirring and adding WW to the ingot pot. I use what I think is a piece of a fiberglass (?) hockey stick for knocking the sprue off. I have tape wrapped at the the end I hang on to, similar to what we used to do with hockey sticks. Safety glasses, good boots and gloves, and a reasonable supply of fresh air.
I am not a long distance target shooter, so my rifle bullets are just plain old Lee, whatever they have to offer. I love casting. Simple as that.
** DO NOT let any drops of water get into your pot! The old gun writer Dean Grennel told of accidentally dropping a live .22 short into a pot.
I also have a new 20 that has been hidden away after 4 moves. Do the older ones, say 15 or 20 years old, have an adjustable pour rate? I still have dug it out from the rubble.
I have never owned a ladle suitable for pouring. I keep my methods very simple. Pro pot(s), all but one Lee molds, Lee Alox and some kind of blue lube for higher speed rifle, an old spoon for stirring and adding WW to the ingot pot. I use what I think is a piece of a fiberglass (?) hockey stick for knocking the sprue off. I have tape wrapped at the the end I hang on to, similar to what we used to do with hockey sticks. Safety glasses, good boots and gloves, and a reasonable supply of fresh air.
I am not a long distance target shooter, so my rifle bullets are just plain old Lee, whatever they have to offer. I love casting. Simple as that.
** DO NOT let any drops of water get into your pot! The old gun writer Dean Grennel told of accidentally dropping a live .22 short into a pot.
mmcintyre1220
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Tillsonburg, Ontario
I have owned my 4-20 now for about 6 years and i think its the best pot for the money . I could care less about what brand my reloading equipment has on it . This lee pot workers perfectly fine and I am sure you will be just as happy. Remember to only put clean lead into the pot to avoid leaking , but if it does happen its a very very easy fix. Don't worry about the lee haters on here. They are just butt hurt they spent too much money on their equipment haha
easyrider604
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Greater Vancouver, BC
Got the 10 and 20 lb bottom pour. 10 lb unit was used many years before I got it. 20 pounder was new. Only issue with both was occasional leaking easily fixed by cleaning the nozzle with a paper lip.
Have processed way more than a ton of WW, Lino and pure lead ingots thru the 20 pounder. Still produces enough heat and the thermostat still works as new. I've made 00 buckshot, 9mm, 38/357, 40cal, various 30 cal rifle, 45acp up to Lee 12 ga slugs. The 20 had the power and nozzle capacity to deliver clean solid bullets
Lee can double the price and it would still be a good deal. Lee haters are just sore because us fanboys are having the same fun for a fraction of their cost.
Have processed way more than a ton of WW, Lino and pure lead ingots thru the 20 pounder. Still produces enough heat and the thermostat still works as new. I've made 00 buckshot, 9mm, 38/357, 40cal, various 30 cal rifle, 45acp up to Lee 12 ga slugs. The 20 had the power and nozzle capacity to deliver clean solid bullets
Lee can double the price and it would still be a good deal. Lee haters are just sore because us fanboys are having the same fun for a fraction of their cost.
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maltextract
Regular
- Location
- Rural Manitoba
I love my 4-20 pot. I use a blend of lead from old commercial fishing net weights which seems high in tin, ww, roofing lead, solder for extra tin from a 40lb roll I found in a old warehouse, and linotype. I alloy this up in 100lb batches into muffin pan ingots. Then I fill my melted with the ingots and go to town. I powder coat these and I find I can use three different molds at the same time. You get a boat load of bullets that way. I pc the bullets with different colours to make it easier to sort and for quick identification.
