Lee Rifling Engraved At Loading any good?

[pointfive0]

Hi folks! First post here.

Performed a couple of searches and found nothing so here's my questions:

Has anyone tried making muzzleloader bullets with Lee's "special R.E.A.L." bullet mold? I am very curious if it will save me the hassle cleaning between shots.

If you look at the Lee Precision website and see the last cast (REAL Bullet for Muzzleloaders)

It says this:


* A solid bullet that loads easily even after many firings because of its unique cleaning action.
* Will not tumble.
* A perfect hunting bullet with heavy loads.

I'm hoping this will provide a solution to two problems I encountered this week.

A .500 maxi that got stuck down my barrel (extractor broke on the bullet, visit to machine shop to weld air compressor fitting with percussion cap nipple to blow out ball and screw). I did not realize I had to clean between shots. I have learned a very valuable lesson.

My second concern was that my target showed a very big hole, as though the bullet had "tumbled" through the air and hit the target sideways. If I go deer hunting, I do not want to do this to a deer. It would seem cruel to injure an animal like this at 100 yards. I doubt it would kill it right away.


Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[billdick]

I had one for my 54 and they were hard to load because they are tight and drag and scrape and just tough. Maybe the lead I was using was to hard.

 

[adriel]

What's the twist rate on your barrel? Some muzzleloader barrels have slower twists and are better with patched ball bullets. Others have a faster rate of twist and work well with slugs or slug+sabots. Might be causing your tumbling.

 

[pointfive0]

What's the twist rate on your barrel? Some muzzleloader barrels have slower twists and are better with patched ball bullets. Others have a faster rate of twist and work well with slugs or slug+sabots. Might be causing your tumbling.

Good question. I've been trying to find more info on my Euroarms of America (made in Italy) .50 Hawkins type muzzleloader, and can't find anything. I do know it is a 1977 that's it. They are a division of Euroarms of Italy and don't have much useful info on their website.

Is there a way to measure twist? I guess a small light and using my eyes to count the twists looking down the barrel is one way, right? Then measure length of barrel?

 

[tiriaq]

Use a cleaning rod with a tight fitting patch. Attach a flag of masking tape to the rod. As the rod follows the rifling, the flag will turn. Measure the distance for one revolution.
REAL bullets would have to be cast from dead soft lead.

 

[Tex Critter]

I cast my R.E.A.L. .50cal bullets from pure lead. They're great for target practice and cut a nice clean hole. I find I can get about 12-15 shots before I have to brush the bore. Oh yeah, I lube them with Lee liquid alox.

 

[snowshoe]

It is most likely a 1 in 48" twist. I have a Investarms and a Lyman made in Italy. They will shoot the real bullets, I found the lighter one worked best I think it was 250g. That said I no longer shoot any bullets from these rifes and only use round balls.

 

[mckutzy]

For the most part u dont have to clean between shots. u can and get some good results, but u dont have to. I dont, and get not too bad results, balls or bullets.
If the round got stuck, u can just pop it out with a small amout of powder behind the ball/projectile, seat the round, reprime/cap and fire.
As for these REAL bullets, i have heard they are some what pickey as for the loading, u kinda have to find a load that works for the gun at a certain range.
In the black powder forum, u will find alot of help about these common events that happen.
What was your load u last used. (powder,grain size, lube, ball weight etc)?

 

[pointfive0]

For the most part u dont have to clean between shots. u can and get some good results, but u dont have to. I dont, and get not too bad results, balls or bullets.
If the round got stuck, u can just pop it out with a small amout of powder behind the ball/projectile, seat the round, reprime/cap and fire.
As for these REAL bullets, i have heard they are some what pickey as for the loading, u kinda have to find a load that works for the gun at a certain range.
In the black powder forum, u will find alot of help about these common events that happen.
What was your load u last used. (powder,grain size, lube, ball weight etc)?

I used about 10-15 .490 balls with pre-oiled .010 patches. 60 grains progressively going to 90 grains. Then went back down to 60 with maxi bullets. 60, 70, 70, then last shot was 80 grains. I had an old bag of .500 CVA Maxi bullets (not greased from factory). Used just a drop of "grease patch" (old tube my dad had). Not sure of weight. Could be about 200 grains?

 

[ben hunchak]

Those REAL never shot well in my 1-66" Lyman, but a 400gr. "Plains bullet" made of pure lead shot best of all, far more accurate then RB. Your mileage may vary!