I have nothing but the best words about my Swede! She's a 1900 dated CG and shoots as good as she looks. Think I might have to pick up another in the future.
what a beauty, you'll be hard pressed to find another one like it...
Let's See Your Swede Hearts
- Thread starter Redhouse
- Start date
what a beauty, you'll be hard pressed to find another one like it...
I'd love to read an account of the Swedes that went into war with/alongside the Finns......
You might want to read "Swedish Volunteers in the Russo-Finnish Winter War, 1939-1940" by Martina Sprague.
Its one of the few available books in English about the Swedish volunteers in the Winter War. I purchased my copy from Amazon.ca. I've just started reading it.
Ohh, I'll be holding her tight that's for sure! Thanks for the comments! Let's see some of the other "Swede hearts"!
- Location
- Smithers, B.C.
My only Swede Heart... and she's a beauty.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Mikerock - You've got the whole set, you win Well, except (see below)
Drachenblut - I know someone who's going to have a minor stroke when they see that, they're dying to find an M94. I'd love one too but think the odds are pretty long against me, so don't worry about it much.
Well, except (see below)Drachenblut - I know someone who's going to have a minor stroke when they see that, they're dying to find an M94. I'd love one too but think the odds are pretty long against me, so don't worry about it much.
Here's a couple I used to own:
Top: Sporter is a Model 96 "Mauser Oberndorf" mfg in 1899. Barrel shortened to 21" & recrowned. Bold adjustable trigger with Remington style safety. Weaver bases with Weaver Classic "V" 3-9x38mm. Orignal stock shortened & refinished with a pebble type matte black. Stock disk indicates a #1 barrel.
Bottom: Original fullwood Model 38 mfg by Husqvarna in 1941.
Sadly, I parted company with those. I've since reacquired 3 fullwood Swedes.... a 1942 Husqvarna M38, a Model 96 Mauser Oberndorf shortrifle with straight bolt [not sure of year] and a Model 96 Carl Gustaf long rifle with straight bolt [again not sure of the year as I type this].
Don't have pics of them yet either, though....
And not a milsurp.... I also have a Tikka 695 stainless/synthetic in 6.5x55mm:
NAA.
Top: Sporter is a Model 96 "Mauser Oberndorf" mfg in 1899. Barrel shortened to 21" & recrowned. Bold adjustable trigger with Remington style safety. Weaver bases with Weaver Classic "V" 3-9x38mm. Orignal stock shortened & refinished with a pebble type matte black. Stock disk indicates a #1 barrel.
Bottom: Original fullwood Model 38 mfg by Husqvarna in 1941.
Sadly, I parted company with those. I've since reacquired 3 fullwood Swedes.... a 1942 Husqvarna M38, a Model 96 Mauser Oberndorf shortrifle with straight bolt [not sure of year] and a Model 96 Carl Gustaf long rifle with straight bolt [again not sure of the year as I type this].
Don't have pics of them yet either, though....
And not a milsurp.... I also have a Tikka 695 stainless/synthetic in 6.5x55mm:
NAA.
Got mine today, I'm stoked! Super nice 1907 M96, #1 6.49 bore, bluing is about 98%, action is super tight (the spring is still stiff on bolt closure, it sure hasn't been cycled/shot a million times like my M38 which is a much softer push to close), numbers all match (haven't checked the barrel bands yet). Wood is in great condition, not flamey like aric's but in overall great condition. Barrel tip isn't threaded either, how rare is that in North America?
I'll take it out in the sun for pics tomorrow. Well, if I get time before I take it to the range
I'll take it out in the sun for pics tomorrow. Well, if I get time before I take it to the range
My M38 is a 1943 husky with brown wood, my buddy's is a blonde 1941.
pics soon.
I've seen a M38 threadless on the barrel tip of the rifle as well, it is for sale at Moving Target in Entwistle, very few were makde threadless. Shape is good (wood) the rest is very good I'd say.
pics soon.
I've seen a M38 threadless on the barrel tip of the rifle as well, it is for sale at Moving Target in Entwistle, very few were makde threadless. Shape is good (wood) the rest is very good I'd say.
Threaded barrels
The threaded barrel was introduced in 1955 for attaching the Blank Firing Adapter. It is known as the "B" barrel or designation.
Sweden used a wooden bullet cartridge for training and exercises. It was not supposed to be used under 100 meters. They designed the Blank Firing Adapter with a splitter, large ports and a closed end to shred this wooden bullet to prevent injuries and accidents. It was also used on the m/96 long rifles that were used for training.
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The threaded barrel was introduced in 1955 for attaching the Blank Firing Adapter. It is known as the "B" barrel or designation.
Sweden used a wooden bullet cartridge for training and exercises. It was not supposed to be used under 100 meters. They designed the Blank Firing Adapter with a splitter, large ports and a closed end to shred this wooden bullet to prevent injuries and accidents. It was also used on the m/96 long rifles that were used for training.
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Forty4Forty
Regular
- Location
- Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Drachenblut your Swede would look much better in this picture, it would complete the photo, can send it to me any day, you only have one after all
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I'm drooling Drachenblut! That is a dandy rifle. I have had 2 very nice carbines in the past few years, with unfortunately chopped wood, but never managed to find an intact specimen yet! That is a beauty!
Al
Al
My only Swede Heart... and she's a beauty.
Enjoy!
Had my new M96 out at the range today. Couple of pics were overexposed, so I don't have any "overall' pics of the gun.
I ran 46gr of RL22 with 140 AMaxes. Was getting pretty close to 2700fps, so didn't shoot the 47gr ones I had on hand and will be making some at 45 - 45.5gr to check for accuracy & speed. Might switch to some Lapua brass too, it doesn't want to eject the Win worth a darn I'm thinking possibly due to the smaller rim?
I didn't shoot it much, but did put 4/5 in about 2.5" and one blatant pull. I was very pleased, for me that's great with open sites. Surely the gun is capable of substantially better.
Issue though: I had to aim at the bottom left corner of a big hunting site in target to hit the middle at 100M. The elevation I get, it's meant to shoot longer range...but the windage is troubling, especially in that the front site is already compensated and has to move even further in this direction:
Maybe the rear site is crooked?
I'm guessing walnut?
I love how the machining marks still stand out like the day it rolled from the factory
And the bluing has some great colour all over the gun, depending on angle of the light
Stock disk: #1 bore, 6.49mm
I ran 46gr of RL22 with 140 AMaxes. Was getting pretty close to 2700fps, so didn't shoot the 47gr ones I had on hand and will be making some at 45 - 45.5gr to check for accuracy & speed. Might switch to some Lapua brass too, it doesn't want to eject the Win worth a darn I'm thinking possibly due to the smaller rim?
I didn't shoot it much, but did put 4/5 in about 2.5" and one blatant pull. I was very pleased, for me that's great with open sites. Surely the gun is capable of substantially better.
Issue though: I had to aim at the bottom left corner of a big hunting site in target to hit the middle at 100M. The elevation I get, it's meant to shoot longer range...but the windage is troubling, especially in that the front site is already compensated and has to move even further in this direction:
Maybe the rear site is crooked?
I'm guessing walnut?
I love how the machining marks still stand out like the day it rolled from the factory
And the bluing has some great colour all over the gun, depending on angle of the light
Stock disk: #1 bore, 6.49mm
Issue though: I had to aim at the bottom left corner of a big hunting site in target to hit the middle at 100M. The elevation I get, it's meant to shoot longer range...but the windage is troubling, especially in that the front site is already compensated and has to move even further in this direction:
No doubt you had to aim left, that sight is pushed way over to the left, putting your POI to the RIGHT. Center the front blade and see what that does for you.
BTW, where yours is now is about where mine ended up to center the groups.Mark
Ya, I drew it out on paper and came to the wrong conclusion about 9 times today LOL. I did it again and see that you are right.
What should I use to tap it so I don't mar it? Block of wood I suppose? I don't have a barrel vise but I'll find a way to clamp it down solid.
What should I use to tap it so I don't mar it? Block of wood I suppose? I don't have a barrel vise but I'll find a way to clamp it down solid.
I used a flat ended punch on the base of the sight where it sticks out and supported the muzzle with a block of wood underneath. You don't have to beat on it very hard, just light taps and remember to check your progress often, lest you keep overshooting your goal.
Mark
