Lets Talk 22s...takedown or solid build? What is your go to model for 22?

[Struedl]

The last take down rifle I owned was a Browning semi SA-22. It was a dream to carry and shoot with a scope, but the stock comb is too high for the iron sights that come with the rifle.

I bought it for pack in hunts, where space was limited.

It was very accurate with standard velocity ammo and fed, ejected flawlessly. However, if it was taken apart, and reassembled, if the torque on the retaining nut wasn't exactly where it liked to be for best accuracy, it wasn't an ideal rifle for taking small game and Grouse for camp meat, because poi kept shifting.

When that retaining nut was right where it needed to be, head shots on Grouse out to 20 yds were doable, but that depended on the shooter.

Getting the torque setting was just a matter of shooting at a target and tightening the nut until the gun shot to POA.

The big problem with it was the torque required on the nut was greater than the strength of my hands could generate.

Sorry for the necro, but I figured this advice might be of some use.

Takedown guns are meant to be shot with a sighting system that is attached to the barrel in some way. Barrel mounted iron sights will 'follow' the barrel in any directional variation it has after remount (this will still work for just the front sight if you have a receiver mounted rear peep sight). If you're using a scope or red dot it should be mounted to the barrel.

Also from the description you gave it sounded like you were mounting the barrel and adjusting the tensioning nut on the gun after every remount. This is not how it's supposed to be done. The tensioning nut is meant to be adjusted with the barrel removed and once it is set it is not meant to be touched; just unlock the bottom lever and twist. With the barrel removed you'll be able to get it much tighter than you ever would have been able to on the gun. Basically you set the ratchet to the point where it just barely allows you to remount the barrel.

 

[bearhunter]

Sorry for the necro, but I figured this advice might be of some use.

Takedown guns are meant to be shot with a sighting system that is attached to the barrel in some way. Barrel mounted iron sights will 'follow' the barrel in any directional variation it has after remount (this will still work for just the front sight if you have a receiver mounted rear peep sight). If you're using a scope or red dot it should be mounted to the barrel.

Also from the description you gave it sounded like you were mounting the barrel and adjusting the tensioning nut on the gun after every remount. This is not how it's supposed to be done. The tensioning nut is meant to be adjusted with the barrel removed and once it is set it is not meant to be touched; just unlock the bottom lever and twist. With the barrel removed you'll be able to get it much tighter than you ever would have been able to on the gun. Basically you set the ratchet to the point where it just barely allows you to remount the barrel.

Nope, I only took it apart once, after purchasing it new, and that was to sell it about ten years later to help pay for a nasty divorce.

I bought the rifle to use "as is" and it shot so well "as is" I didn't mess with it.

It was only used for Grouse hunting and the odd gopher, and if I did my part, it did everything it was supposed to do.

 

[hawkmp9]

I have had experience with the savage 64 being very ammo picky and less than acceptable reliability for fte and ftf.
The takedown and regular model 10\22 are all super popular and reliable with the right ammo. I have never had great accuracy with factory barrels on them. Savage has excellent accuracy on their heavy barrels in my experience (B22 and mkII fvsr).

Personally i have never found a need for a takedown other than cool factor. Although, it would be nice to have a packable gun IF it will fit the pack you have or choose.
CZ has been absolutely insane quality and accuracy in my 457 lux.
Henry makes a great lever 22 if that is something you like .

It all comes down to what your intended use will be. You wont want to be walking around the bush and plinking cans with the 64 precision as its heavy. If you're shooting from a bench at the range 90% of the time and don't mind spending coin on a scope then that savage may suit you.

Overall fun the henry lever and savage mkII heavy barrels are super enjoyable and reliable and wont be as expensive as a cz or the 64 precision.

let us know what you choose and Happy shooting!

 

[brownbear53]

My tuff 22 (basically a custom 10/22) has a 12.5" Heavy barrel on it. It does the best of both worlds, It is just as compact as a takedown 22, and has the rigidity of a non takedown. Shoots just as accurate as any other 16-20" barrel 22 within usable distances. (currently sitting at an OAL of 27")

The only drawbacks are the slightly lower velocity which in turn leads to a reduced range due to the smaller barrel (still plenty accurate out to 100 yards)

 

[Struedl]

It's worth noting that in R. v. Felawka the Supreme Court ruled that it's illegal to transport a firearm in anything other than a gun case lest you be carrying it 'concealed'. Smh

That does take away much of the utility of a takedown rifle.

 

[jjohnwm]

I have several take-down centerfire hunting rifles, and I think they are wonderful if you foresee air travel in your hunting future. Not sure I see the utility in a takedown .22lr anymore; nobody is flying to a once-in-a-lifetime exotic hunt with a rimfire. Closer to home, well, unless your primary mode of transportation to and from your shooting area is a bike or a pogo stick, just about any rimfire can be easily stored in a vehicle in its fully-assembled state.

I've owned and played with a number of TD .22's over the years...Charter AR7, Marlin Papoose, Browning SA, a bunch of others...and I agree with the warnings mentioned above regarding accuracy if using optics. Most of these guns mount the scope on the receiver, and then require fine-tuning each time the barrel is removed/replaced.

But if you absolutely must have a takedown (and they have a certain cool factor just because of that feature )...and if you demand accuracy (as you should!)...then the logical choice is a lever action like a Marlin 39 or a Winchester 94/22. I've had both, still have the Win, and they're the only .22 takedowns I've had that return unerringly to zero after disassembly/reassembly. Their strength is that you aren't removing the barrel from the action; you are removing the barrel together with the upper receiver as a unit, while the lower receiver, trigger and buttstock make up the other half. Your optics and/or sights are always fully fixed to the barrel/upper unit.

The catch, of course, is that they ain't cheap, and the two models I mentioned above are only available on the used market.

One last thing to keep in mind: all the above comments about maintaining zero only apply if you are always religiously sticking to the same type of ammo. I shoot a crap-ton of rimfire ammo, out of a bunch of different rifles, and I keep track of what types shoot best out of which guns, but the simple fact is that it's tough to turn down a smoking deal on .22 ammo even if its not your gun's favourite brand and the odds are good that you will be adjusting your sights every single time you switch brands, even with a quality fixed-barrel rifle. It's just the nature of rimfires, and it's not a terrific hardship; a few rounds fired with the latest box of a different brand requires a few shots to check and adjust your sights, and then you're good.

 

[johNTO]

I don't bother taking down my DLASK Tuf22 take-down unless absolutely necessary. With a 9" barrel it already packs small enough. So far it holds zero with a receiver mounted prism scope.
Imo there's too much concern about take-downs and accuracy.....after all it's a semi-auto .22lr 10/22.
Can't expect too much.....

 

[DCahill]

For a takedown 22, I would recommend the latest models of Winchester 63. The rifle itself is very accurate and the later year models were dovetailed for a scope which stays with the barrel when taken apart.