Lets talk about aiming with iron sights (rifle, shotgun)

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Lets talk about aiming with iron sights (rifle, shotgun)

There are all kinds of techniques out there and for use with iron sights on rifles or shotguns.

What techniques are you using and why?

The problem that I am having with iron sights (and I am surely not alone) … is … that if I have to hold over and to compensate for bullet drop at distance … my target disappears behind the sights … :(

And I like to see what I am aiming at …. That is the only way I can make a “precision” shot.

As a consequence, I like to sight in my rifle/shotguns to the furthest distance that I think I will reasonably shoot them with the iron sights. And then I am holding under and to compensate for shorter distances. Like this I am able to see my target at all times.
  • So, what technique are you using with iron sights?
  • Do you use a center hold or a six o’clock hold?
  • Do you sight in for shorter distances … and then you hold over at longer distances?
  • Or do sight in for longer distances and then you hold under for shorter distances?
  • Or maybe you just change the sight picture and to compensate for distance and you are still holding on target?

What technique/method are you using?



1.) 6 O’clock hold

6_oclock_hold.jpg




2.) Hold over for far away targets


Hold_Over.jpg




3.) Hold under for close range

Holding_Under..jpg




4.) Change sight picture for far away targets

Change_Sight_Picture_1.jpg




5.) Change sight picture for close range

Change_Sight_Picture_2.jpg





p.s.: And yes, some shotguns do have rifle sights.
 
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I have the CZ 452 Ultra lux and my rear sight is adjustable and works very well for shooting at different distance so hold over is not required once adjusted. I'm not saying it works 100% but a lot better than guessing.
 
Number 1 is ideal. 2 is fine and normal for hand guns. 3 is not sighted in. 4 and 5 are just a bad idea.

Depending on the iron sights you can just set the distance. Like the SKS. If they are fixed then keep it shorter ranges or accept that you are holding over the target.
 
Number 1 is ideal. 2 is fine and normal for hand guns.
#1 works well for bullseye targets at known ranges, but is crap for field shooting or hunting. I've never had a handgun shoot like #2, I think that would drive me insane.

For field shooting and/or hunting I want the point of impact to be right on top of the front sight blade with the top of the blade level with the top of the rear notch.


Mark
 
It's alll depend on what your target is. I alway use 6 o'clock hold for everything and sight in all my rifles as well as shotgun this way. The bead shotgun is different story, shorter barrel will need to aim lower.

Center mass with 6 o'clock hold works great from 50 meters up to 300 meters, you literally won't miss especially with 5.56mm.
 
A adj all my iron sights for 1.
Never had an issue hunting or whatever as im consistent with it across all firearms with adj sights


1.) Lets take a 30-06 rifle as an example ... with a 180 grains bullet ... and zeroed in at 100 meters .... the rifle will shoot low by 15 - 18 inches at 300 meters.

2.) A 12ga shotgun .... sighted in at 100 meters .... will have a drop of ca. 30 to 40 inches at 200 meters.

So, you are saying that all your firearms shoot consistently to point of aim and across all distances?

You never have to hold over or under?

🤔
 
It's alll depend on what your target is. I alway use 6 o'clock hold for everything and sight in all my rifles as well as shotgun this way. The bead shotgun is different story, shorter barrel will need to aim lower.

Center mass with 6 o'clock hold works great from 50 meters up to 300 meters, you literally won't miss especially with 5.56mm.

And 12ga??

A 12ga shotgun .... sighted in at 100 meters .... will have a drop of ca. 30 to 40 inches at 200 meters.

Are you saying that you are using the same hold for 50 meters as for 300 meters with a 12ga?

?????
 
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6 o clock hold is what I sight with as much as possible.

Some rifles wont do it.

I really like irons, my eyes unfortunately are not as good. Glasses have helped.

Good irons are quite accurate.

I hate the buckhorn type sights. Far too big for my liking.
 
1.) Lets take a 30-06 rifle as an example ... with a 180 grains bullet ... and zeroed in at 100 meters .... the rifle will shoot low by 15 - 18 inches at 300 meters.

2.) A 12ga shotgun .... sighted in at 100 meters .... will have a drop of ca. 30 to 40 inches at 200 meters.

So, you are saying that all your firearms shoot consistently to point of aim and across all distances?

You never have to hold over or under?

🤔
I don't shoot over 150yrds with any iron sights as my eyes won't allow it so its not an issue.
 
1.) Lets take a 30-06 rifle as an example ... with a 180 grains bullet ... and zeroed in at 100 meters .... the rifle will shoot low by 15 - 18 inches at 300 meters.

2.) A 12ga shotgun .... sighted in at 100 meters .... will have a drop of ca. 30 to 40 inches at 200 meters.

So, you are saying that all your firearms shoot consistently to point of aim and across all distances?

You never have to hold over or under?

🤔

How many people are shooting at those kinds of ranges without an optic? I'm terrible with iron sights, so I'm certainly not doing it.

That said, if I WAS to use irons, I'd set it up the MPBR way - figure out how big of a circle you'll accept, then use a calculator to determine what range you need to zero and what your max range is for that size of circle based on the ballistics of your rifle.

Using your 180gr 30-06 example, you can zero it at 200yds and and be inside a 4" circle out to 230yds. Make it a 6" circle and you're zeroing at 230 for a 270yds max range. (Based on the numbers from Federal 180gr fusion factory ammo)

No way I'm shooting past 230yds with irons, so a 4" circle and a 200yd zero would work great for me. Just point and shoot.
 
A adj all my iron sights for 1.
Never had an issue hunting or whatever as im consistent with it across all firearms with adj sights
You use a 6 o'clock hold on a deer? How high is your POI above the point of aim?

No way I'm shooting past 230yds with irons, so a 4" circle and a 200yd zero would work great for me. Just point and shoot.
This is about where I am. I will sight my Garand and other milsurps 2-3" high at 100yds. This results in 0-2" low at 200yds and that is all my eyes allow for. I aim at the centre of the chest and that puts the deer down at any range I will shoot with the irons.


Mark
 
You use a 6 o'clock hold on a deer? How high is your POI above the point of aim?


This is about where I am. I will sight my Garand and other milsurps 2-3" high at 100yds. This results in 0-2" low at 200yds and that is all my eyes allow for. I aim at the centre of the chest and that puts the deer down at any range I will shoot with the irons.


Mark
The only shot on an animal I've taken beyond 100yrds was on a coyote and he was about 125-150.
I used my cz527 223 so flat and fast and sighted in for 100yrds. It hit him just below the spine just behind the shoulder. Even that shot was iffy and I woudnt have taken it if I wasn't in a wood pile and very stable.
The point I was trying to make was that regardless of rifle or even my pistols, is that the sight picture is always the same. POI is just above front blade so I don't cover the target.
My eyes are going in my mid 50s so scopes are just about on everything
 
And 12ga??

A 12ga shotgun .... sighted in at 100 meters .... will have a drop of ca. 30 to 40 inches at 200 meters.

Are you saying that you are using the same hold for 50 meters as for 300 meters with a 12ga?

?????

Well it's depend but all my shotguns are sight in with 00 bucks shot at 25 meters, I wouldn't shot anything pass than distance, the spread is too large and they aren't that effective. The 1 oz slug is pretty dead on with 6 o'clock hold at 25 meters after sight in with 00 buckshot at 25 meters as well.

I mean that those short barrel shotgun with bead sight really need to aim lower like at the waist area to hit anything with 00 buckshot at 25 meters.
 
Im an old fossil but open sights can and do work well. Bullseye top of the bead or blade front sight. Adjust elevation accordingly. My grandfather shot back in the 1930's with Lee Enfield and Ross rifles as civilian marksman. Free lead from the government. Said everyone in the club kept all their shots in an 8 inch bull at 200 yards from sitting position.. That's pretty good shooting imo.
 
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When I used to use my 94/30-30 a lot and still with my other guns with sights, I’d zero at 100yds with the bead at the very bottom of the V. Then raise the bead to the top of the V, fire and check the inches against your velocity/trajectory for the load you’re using to see where that zero will fall.
That’s what has always worked for me.
The old 94’ that I carried back on the farm for years , many years ago didn’t even have an elevator in the rear sight but I didn’t miss much.
 
Long guns I sight in this way; also my GP100 that I shoot IDPA, my other hand guns are sighted in with 6:00 hold (for bulseye). Holding over as required, I sight in so it usually does not matter with my old eyes.

1776687495870.png
 
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